Hope you don't mind me trespassing in the Series part of this site.
Have a Disco 200tdi but bought a Y reg Series 3 today. Drove it back from Leeds to Manchester. Have not stopped giggling yet. It's got the 2.25 petrol engine and no overdrive. Long drive on the M62!
Now then, it does need a new clutch and I've noticed it it pops and farts a bit when decelerating, especially down hill. Can smell petrol so assume running rich? At idle it runs quite well but bit of a misfire occasionally.
Any thoughts on the above fuel/running issues?
What fuel is best? Normal unleaded, Super unleaded, additives?
Where's best to get the clutch kit and how much, which are best value? How difficult are they to fit (on my own)?
Live in Salford, Manchester so if anyone is local and can assist with these tasks it will be appreciated (i.e worth a fair few pints).

By the way. Regarding the overdrive. Need to get info on these so if anyone can give a master class?

Thankyou in anticipation
Steve

i dont reckon there is much to say about overdrives, they are a good thing as far as I am concerned. Relatively easy to fit, tools screwdriver for lock tab, hammer, spanner, its a whitworth size on mine i think but others fit.Takes about 30 mins to fit the unit and then a bit extra to fit the overdrive selector. Going to cost you 250 ish for a unit with drive gear and selector. is there a hole in the tunnel where one has been fitted before?

tunnel out (so floor pans out) which can take anything from 2 mins (mine aren't attached) to 2 hours if you struggle with each and every bolt, for the overdrive unit its just the centre panel under the middle seat if you have one.

selector is fairly obvious where it goes

overdrive : unbolt gearbox rear cover and remove plate, undo lock tab and big nut, remove rear drive gear (don't know its name) fit the one from the overdrive and reassemble.

Overdrive gaskets are relatively easy to get ?(my local land rover place has them) locktabs are harder. The overdrive one is ever so slightly diferent so try and get one with a locktab or make something up. There was a guy on the bay selling them a while ago.

one nut is easier from underneath.

The nuts are on studs, often the studs come out with them, if they do don't worry, just put them back in the same holes.

fill with oil, do your gearbox oil while you are in there as its pretty easy with the back off!

Thanks for that. Just been on fleaby and it's looking like £250 to £300 for a unit. Pleased it's not too difficult to fit.
Any views on the clutch and fuel dilemma?

Just had some other thoughts that require an airing.

Re:Clutch.
Just been for a spin ( can't help it I love it). Noticed judder and slipping. Am I correct in thinking that the clutch plate is contaminated (oil?). If so, where's it coming from. Is there a output shaft oil seal from the engine that could fail?
Clutch pedal is high. Can't get any higher. Worn clutch and/or contamination?

Re: Running a bit rough.
Read a post that suggests Weber carbs are not that good (fitted on mine). That it could be carb icing and you need warm air to solve the problem. Where does this warm air live? Today was Baltic where I am so could this be the cause. Also recommends I get a zenith carb to solve problem. Is this a straight swop with no fiddling?
Why are webers put on anyway when they are so problematic.
Also, still wondering about type of fuel I put in it (standard unleaded).

Will be back when I've thought some more no doubt.

Thank you

could be oil from front gearbox oil seal.

personally I havent had any problems with Weber carbs - the warm air comes from the exhaust manifold.

That popping/farting? Burnt exhaust valve/s. Same thing on mine. Better sorted sooner rather than later.

i used normal unleaded with some lead additive added for my petrol series 3 when it went.....

bigditch said:

Re: Running a bit rough.
Read a post that suggests Weber carbs are not that good (fitted on mine). That it could be carb icing and you need warm air to solve the problem. Where does this warm air live? Today was Baltic where I am so could this be the cause. Also recommends I get a zenith carb to solve problem. Is this a straight swop with no fiddling?
Why are webers put on anyway when they are so problematic.

Thank you

Click to expand...

Check your ignition, points, condenser, leads etc. I was convinced I needed a new carb, all attempts at tuning it were failing, fitted a new dizzy, running like a dream (2nd person to report this on LZ this year)
As regards popping, is there an exhaust blow. The flange that joins the front pipe to the manifold is a common problem, and that appears to cause popping back on overrun.
A bit of a fiddly job to do sat first, I use very long extensionS from underneath, but you'll soon get the hang of it as you will be doing it regularly.

Will check the exhaust asap. Then have a look at the dizzy, HT's, condenser, leads and plugs. Further to the fuel issue I put normal unleaded in to get me home from Leeds and some 'Octane Boost', just a bit though. Wise or not?
Now, exhaust valves. Not my thing to go this mechanically deep. Got a Haynes and a bit off common sense. Will this be enough? If not is there anyone local to Salford, Manchester who can befriend me? Willing to grease palms in the process. Just don't want to fiddle and bugger it up.
Thanks
Steve