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Colin from Hull

Active Member
Hi, Finally got connection,good idle. But what am i looking at, have a big list of faults. My theory was to clear faults, including EAS FAULT, SLOW 35 MPH message. Start her up then read faults again then repair. colin
 
Clear the faults, then re-read. A big list of faults still usually means bad comms but as you have good idle I hope that is not the case.
The EAS Fault Slow 35mph will stay while in diagnostic mode, it should go if all the faults are cleared next time you turn on the ignition with the cable removed.
 
Hi, Sat in car right now, cleared that big list, then restarted still got good idle, and now have one fault (6.RR signal incorrect). Gone from loads, to just one expected just normal things (Offside bag got leak) colin
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi, Sat in car right now, cleared that big list, then restarted still got good idle, and now have one fault (6.RR signal incorrect). Gone from loads, to just one expected just normal things (Offside bag got leak) colin
Click to expand...
RR signal incorrect is the right Rear height sensor. Either the connector is corroded/full of water or the sensor is worn out/failed:)
 
Hi, I have cleared faults, switched off ignition, unplugged. then started car, still have EAS Fault, and all four small lights flashing on dashboard. And my car isnt rising or compressor running. I thought it would have gone back to normal tried to raise the car then give the fault again. Colin
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi, I have cleared faults, switched off ignition, unplugged. then started car, still have EAS Fault, and all four small lights flashing on dashboard. And my car isnt rising or compressor running. I thought it would have gone back to normal tried to raise the car then give the fault again. Colin
Click to expand...
What do you expect? It's still got a fault according to you, RR incorrect reading.

The EAS is quite fussy, it wants NO faults not the odd one or two.
The compressor will not run as long as there is a fault present, you have to fix the fault, then clear the fault log.

There is one fault that can remain when it's working normally:- Vehicle has Moved. It can be ignored.
 
Last edited:
Hi,
Well just trying to understand it, just thought if i had cleared the fault using the software, it would go through it cycle of raising the car until it read the fault again.
So do you have any advice regarding sensor, clean the terminals,blow it with compress air to get water out, or would it better to get new one. this will have to be re-calibrated (height) right. colin
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi,
Well just trying to understand it, just thought if i had cleared the fault using the software, it would go through it cycle of raising the car until it read the fault again.
So do you have any advice regarding sensor, clean the terminals,blow it with compress air to get water out, or would it better to get new one. this will have to be re-calibrated (height) right. colin
Click to expand...

As Datatek says, the EAS is fussy, it will know that the reading from the sensor is incorrect before doing anything, as the reading may be currently out of the prescribed limits, so even without doing anything, it knows there is a fault.

Disconnect the sensor, clean the contacts using a contact/electrical cleaner (not WD40) and see what happens... If you have the same fault, check the wiring is sound and if that checks out, it may be time for a replacement.....and yes you will have to recal after fitment!
 
Saint.V8 said:
As Datatek says, the EAS is fussy, it will know that the reading from the sensor is incorrect before doing anything, as the reading may be currently out of the prescribed limits, so even without doing anything, it knows there is a fault.

Disconnect the sensor, clean the contacts using a contact/electrical cleaner (not WD40) and see what happens... If you have the same fault, check the wiring is sound and if that checks out, it may be time for a replacement.....and yes you will have to recal after fitment!
Click to expand...
As above:)
 
Colin. When you switch ignition on EAS inhibit lamp will light and go out, all four lamps on height indicator will light then should go out, ( that is the EAS doing it's pre flight checks so to speak)** leaving either one solid lamp and one flashing or one solid lamp if no movement (drop) has taken place whilst parked up. Solid lamp is the AT position flashing lamp is the GOING TO position. When car has adjusted to the preset position solid lamp will go out and flashing lamp will go solid. If all lamps stay lit or flash after **, there is an hard fault and the EAS will do nothing until it is rectified.
 
Hi, I havent tried EAS software tonight tonight, been reading other threads, when i did connect Tuesday, i had good idle numbers increasing in Tx column, and similar in the other column but alongside the numbers i had FF. Now if im understanding old threads i should have just FF in this column, so have i still got a comm problem? although i did recieve a fault. Wammers are you discribing the Eas system under normal situation when you starting engine and driving away?
 
Hi,
Im going to inflate my bags individually with my compressor, this will check my bags for leaks, i will check righthand sensors blow out and clean connections, then re-done my EAS fault check, se what i get. I had been driving throught water down lane were i live so this fault makes some sense. Just hope it gets a little warmer!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Colin
 
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