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nathanglasgow

Active Member
Now I know just how much they rust but this time it's caught me out. Knew inner and outer sills and centre body mounts rusted to buggery so bought complete sill assemblies from YRM,£200 all in delivered. Made a start and done drivers side,quite pleased how it turned out,only took 2 days for one side. Thought I'd better check rear arches and rear seatbelt mounting points.Oh dear,well rusty.Never noticed just how bad it was as all covered upvwith trim ect.Oh well best order some arches and sheet steel!
 
Another £100 just spent on arches and another £50 on welding gas,wire,seam sealer andunderseal. That brings the metalwork total to £350ish,add to that the£120 that was spent last week on new front brake pads,rear calipers,rear discs and pads and we're at £500.This is all for its mot in three weeks time.There may be other items that need attention too so expecting to fork out nearer £700 for a pass. Can't complain really as has passed first time for the last 4 years with only a few minor items needing replaced.
 
Been doing that for years already. Usually run 35lt svo,40lt diesel and 6lt unleaded per full tank. Saves about £30 per fill. Got the rear inner side panel,rear inner arch/seatbelt mount and bottom of c pillar all done today. Outer arch removed and all ready for new ones when they arrive. Looks like 4days work per side!
 
Know the feeling. I've got to try figure out how to weld a full piece in the chassis without lifting the body. Thinking of welding the inside and sealing it if i can.

Then there is the tank strap i just ordered. The bottom one is buggered aswel but needs welding round there too. And the front wings. Just got no time. To get in the garage and do it all.
 
Bugger! classic own goal. Whilst drilling out the passenger side sill spot welds on the floorpan the drill found the front to rear brake line which I had forgotten to move out the way. No biggie,just put a joining fitting in where it was holed but a bit hacked off as I'd just bleed the system a couple of weeks ago when putting new rear calipers in. All ready for Mot in two weeks.
 
Just back from testing station with a pass! Well pleased that all my welding was up to standard. Just added all the receipts up and including the testing fee comes to just shy of £700. I've had the Disco for 4 years now and hopefully if I keep on top of rust prevention should get a good few more years out of it yet.
 
If you used box section for the sills it would of saved you a good few hundred pounds.. Have fun welding it up, I spent way to long doing mine last year and still have lots of mechanical work to do..
 
I did look at doing box section sills but you don't actually save much if the inner sill,body mounts and floor pans are crusty as in my instance. The new full outer sill gives you a good portion of the floor pans and new inner sill has body mounts and seatbelt mounting plate included. If the inner sill and body mounts ect are still good then yeah i would have boxed sectioned it but they were all too weak.I priced box section up,£90 for box section,£60 for new body mounts(YRM),£20 for seatbelt anchor plates and about £20 for sheet steel for floor pan repair sections so only about a tenner in it plus more time in fabrication work. Box section definitely the way to go if it's only the outside and bottom of sills that are gone.
 
Mine I use Coke on my frame n my engine.. I know it's soda but mines is ever lasting now
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Welcome my fellow American. I was blown to these shores from Chicago when I was four in 1972 due to my father's job and stayed as it's an okay place to be. Can't be many D2s in NY state,you must be a minority.
 
Been enjoying the relatively rust free Discovery for a few weeks now and thought I would finally get round to fixing the worn drivers side windows regulator. It's got a few teeth missing on the quadrant so doesn't close all the way. It's a 300tdi first registered in March 1995 but built at the end of 1994 as most ofvthe date stamps on the plastic bits and the door cards are from late 1994. I ordered a new window regulator for a 300tdi and having spent a couple of hours taking the old one out,guess what, its the older 200tdi mechanism that's in there. Bugger! Spent another hour putting it all back together. Now on the look out for the right one.
 
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