sierrafery
Well-Known Member
You said you heard it clicking can't you locate it?... what year is the vehicle?
discool
Well-Known Member
What ever tdi engine u have the timer relay is under the bonnet, 200s its attached to the rear bulk head, 300s it attached to the engine bay fusebox bracket.
With the timing, where have u taken the measurement from? 12v supply at the glow plugs or the warning light illumination, the warning light should be around 5 or 6 seconds but can increase or decrease depending on the under bonnet temp... and voltage to the plugs add a further 4 or 5 seconds to the warning light times.
Also I believe that tdi' have a micro switch on their injection pump that's operated by the the accelerator which is part of the glow plug system....
Glad I've stayed with petrol engines
With the timing, where have u taken the measurement from? 12v supply at the glow plugs or the warning light illumination, the warning light should be around 5 or 6 seconds but can increase or decrease depending on the under bonnet temp... and voltage to the plugs add a further 4 or 5 seconds to the warning light times.
Also I believe that tdi' have a micro switch on their injection pump that's operated by the the accelerator which is part of the glow plug system....
Glad I've stayed with petrol engines
That was the glow plug relay, is that and the timer relay the same thing?
The measurement was taken from the glow plug.What ever tdi engine u have the timer relay is under the bonnet, 200s its attached to the rear bulk head, 300s it attached to the engine bay fusebox bracket.
With the timing, where have u taken the measurement from? 12v supply at the glow plugs or the warning light illumination, the warning light should be around 5 or 6 seconds but can increase or decrease depending on the under bonnet temp... and voltage to the plugs add a further 4 or 5 seconds to the warning light times.
Also I believe that tdi' have a micro switch on their injection pump that's operated by the the accelerator which is part of the glow plug system....
Glad I've stayed with petrol engines
It's a 1997 manual 300tdi.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The glow plug timer relay is the one and only which manages the plugs
Out of interest, what made you change the glow plugs? If you don't know how to diagnose if they're working now, what drove you to change them in the first place?
Relay for the glow plugs is under the bonnet, drivers side in the fuse box. Look on the back of the lid for the right relay.
As for the testing. Easiest way to find out if it's working correctly is with a clamp meter, should pull a shedload of amps. If you disconnect all of the glow plug (leave them in the block) and do a resistance check. They should all be a low ohm reading and all the readings of each plug should be very close to each other.
Voltage will drop from whatever you said (think it was 13v), this is because the plugs are pulling a large load from the battery and the conductance of the cables etc changes with temperature (not by much, but enough to give a few mOhms difference. When your pulling nearly 100amps from a 12v supply, a few mOhms makes a big difference, hence why fatter cables are better for jump starts).
Relay for the glow plugs is under the bonnet, drivers side in the fuse box. Look on the back of the lid for the right relay.
As for the testing. Easiest way to find out if it's working correctly is with a clamp meter, should pull a shedload of amps. If you disconnect all of the glow plug (leave them in the block) and do a resistance check. They should all be a low ohm reading and all the readings of each plug should be very close to each other.
Voltage will drop from whatever you said (think it was 13v), this is because the plugs are pulling a large load from the battery and the conductance of the cables etc changes with temperature (not by much, but enough to give a few mOhms difference. When your pulling nearly 100amps from a 12v supply, a few mOhms makes a big difference, hence why fatter cables are better for jump starts).
During the recent cold snap, it was turning over a few times before starting and smoking a bit on starting up. After a few seconds, enough time for the cylinders to heat up I'd imagine, the smoke would clear and the engine would run smoother. I suspected glow plugs because it would previously start on the button.
Since changing them, it still takes a few turns to start if it's been cold overnight, but it doesn't smoke as much and runs smooth straight from starting.
It's running on bio diesel, but it hasn't been cold enough to make it start gelling up.
Since changing them, it still takes a few turns to start if it's been cold overnight, but it doesn't smoke as much and runs smooth straight from starting.
It's running on bio diesel, but it hasn't been cold enough to make it start gelling up.
Probably should have mentioned you were running this first, lol. Have you tried running it on diesel for a bit? Would need a couple tank fulls at least to clean it out and test. You could always try something like Diesel Rhino which is really good at cleaning the lines, but it's supposed to be used with national grade diesel obviously.
I've been running on bio diesel for over 4 years and put the occasional tank of regular diesel in when I run out, or if it gets really cold.
Yes, but doesn't the quality of bio diesel vary greatly compared to that of normal diesel?
No, I make my own and I'm very meticulous.
