Richard Seddon
Member
Here's a similar thread on the classic Mini forum.
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/223427-glass-to-blade-fuses/
Their experts raise the same points:
• Never simply replace a blown fuse, but establish and rectify what caused it to blow;
• Be aware of the difference between today's fuse rating standards, where they're marked with their "continuous Amps" rating, and older British car fuses, which are marked with their instant "blow" ratings;
• NEVER go down the trial-and-error route of fitting a fuse that's rated to instantly blow close to the continuous Amperage! At the end of the Mini thread, there's a very good explanation of why this seemingly sensible practice is actually dangerous. It's all about how another feature of fuses -- something called the "slow blow" characteristics, which give the impression everything is good over many months, while under the fuse box cover or dashboard, things are heating up ;
• If you're thinking of (or already have) modified your Landy's fuses to blade type fuses, speak with your Insurers, as this constitutes a major "modification" and, unless done by a qualified auto electrician, will almost certainly invalidate your Insurance;
• Get yourself a fire extinguisher .
As an aside, I'm currently fitting a flashing beacon to my Ninety, as it is also used as a "recovery vehicle". The beacon draws around 5A. So what gauge wire should I use: one rated at 5A, maybe? Or, after reading about continuous and blow Amperage in fuses, you might think 10A or 16A wire? Well, don't forget that all wire has a resistance that doesn't just relate to the cross-section of the core, we must also consider the length of the wire. Hmm, this stuff quickly gets complicated. My cable run will be about 3.5 meters, so the answer is that I'm going to ask ask a qualified auto electrician. Better safe than sorry. Fire extinguishers are expensive!
Rick
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/223427-glass-to-blade-fuses/
Their experts raise the same points:
• Never simply replace a blown fuse, but establish and rectify what caused it to blow;
• Be aware of the difference between today's fuse rating standards, where they're marked with their "continuous Amps" rating, and older British car fuses, which are marked with their instant "blow" ratings;
• NEVER go down the trial-and-error route of fitting a fuse that's rated to instantly blow close to the continuous Amperage! At the end of the Mini thread, there's a very good explanation of why this seemingly sensible practice is actually dangerous. It's all about how another feature of fuses -- something called the "slow blow" characteristics, which give the impression everything is good over many months, while under the fuse box cover or dashboard, things are heating up ;
• If you're thinking of (or already have) modified your Landy's fuses to blade type fuses, speak with your Insurers, as this constitutes a major "modification" and, unless done by a qualified auto electrician, will almost certainly invalidate your Insurance;
• Get yourself a fire extinguisher .
As an aside, I'm currently fitting a flashing beacon to my Ninety, as it is also used as a "recovery vehicle". The beacon draws around 5A. So what gauge wire should I use: one rated at 5A, maybe? Or, after reading about continuous and blow Amperage in fuses, you might think 10A or 16A wire? Well, don't forget that all wire has a resistance that doesn't just relate to the cross-section of the core, we must also consider the length of the wire. Hmm, this stuff quickly gets complicated. My cable run will be about 3.5 meters, so the answer is that I'm going to ask ask a qualified auto electrician. Better safe than sorry. Fire extinguishers are expensive!
Rick