defenderdog · Jul 30, 2018

Thanks for all your replies. One more question. Now that I’ve decided to paint it with your advice I need to disassemble it again but at least it’s all shinny and new. What Order do I do things.
1. Wax oil internally
2. T wash
3. Prime and paint
Or
1. T wash
2. Wax oil internally
3. Prime and paint.

Bare in mind this is going to be a Tart of a Land Rover. It won’t see mud.

dag019 · Jul 30, 2018

defenderdog said:
Thanks for all your replies. One more question. Now that I’ve decided to paint it with your advice I need to disassemble it again but at least it’s all shinny and new. What Order do I do things.
1. Wax oil internally
2. T wash
3. Prime and paint
Or
1. T wash
2. Wax oil internally
3. Prime and paint.

Bare in mind this is going to be a Tart of a Land Rover. It won’t see mud.

Although I am by no means an expert I would t wash it all first and then do the internals. But I would use dinitrol rather than waxoil. Similar product but gets better write ups and I have been more than happy with it in my bulkhead and door frames. that is what I am going to do the internals of mine with when I paint it.

Chalky. · Jul 30, 2018

defenderdog said:
Bare in mind this is going to be a Tart of a Land Rover. It won’t see mud.

haha I love that!!

defenderdog · Jul 30, 2018

dag019 said:
Although I am by no means an expert I would t wash it all first and then do the internals. But I would use dinitrol rather than waxoil. Similar product but gets better write ups and I have been more than happy with it in my bulkhead and door frames. that is what I am going to do the internals of mine with when I paint it.

Appreciate your input. Luckily I have some dintrol in the shed. So Thanks.

turrican · Jul 31, 2018

I'm doing my chassis internals at the end of my project as wax oil is a messy process and when painting the outside it needs to be grease\oil free, the chances of me keeping it clean after ive used wax oil is non-existent.
i also didn't fancy feeding the wiring loom through the chassis when its full of wax oil.

dag019 · Jul 31, 2018

turrican said:
I'm doing my chassis internals at the end of my project as wax oil is a messy process and when painting the outside it needs to be grease\oil free, the chances of me keeping it clean after ive used wax oil is non-existent.
i also didn't fancy feeding the wiring loom through the chassis when its full of wax oil.

That's an easy one, don't feed the wiring loom through the chassis! Put it in plastic conduit, wrap it with a loom tape and feed it along the top of the chassis rail. This way it is still protected from external damage but makes it easier to inspect, repair, alter and remove and refit as needed. I have done this on both of mine when I replaced the rear looms.

Turboman · Jul 31, 2018

dag019 said:
That's an easy one, don't feed the wiring loom through the chassis! Put it in plastic conduit, wrap it with a loom tape and feed it along the top of the chassis rail. This way it is still protected from external damage but makes it easier to inspect, repair, alter and remove and refit as needed. I have done this on both of mine when I replaced the rear looms.

Agree completely. Having the wires inside the chassis was always a bad idea, and it is much better to get it out. It never suffers damage on top of the chassis.

turrican · Jul 31, 2018

Turboman said:
Agree completely. Having the wires inside the chassis was always a bad idea, and it is much better to get it out. It never suffers damage on top of the chassis.

I don't know why I had previously discounted mounting the loom on top. It does seem the best solution. Hopefully can find a way to secure it without drilling any holes.

Turboman · Jul 31, 2018

turrican said:
I don't know why I had previously discounted mounting the loom on top. It does seem the best solution. Hopefully can find a way to secure it without drilling any holes.

If you feed it through a length of alkathene pipe, you can just trap it between the body and the top of the chassis. It crushes the pipe enough to hold it in place, but nowhere near enough to damage the wire inside,

mick the builder · Jul 31, 2018

Outside first every time.

Al2O3 · Aug 1, 2018

Bloody hell, I'm the odd man out here. I didn't paint mine as I like the galve look. I painted my rad grille and headlight surrounds Zambezi Silver to match. There's only the rear crossmember that shows, unless you put a galve front bumper on, as I did. The rest gets covered in road muck very quickly and you can't tell its galved. I ran my harness through the chassis anorl

Turboman · Aug 1, 2018

Al2O3 said:
Bloody hell, I'm the odd man out here. I didn't paint mine as I like the galve look. I painted my rad grille and headlight surrounds Zambezi Silver to match. There's only the rear crossmember that shows, unless you put a galve front bumper on, as I did. The rest gets covered in road muck very quickly and you can't tell its galved. I ran my harness through the chassis anorl

Galv is very long lasting even if not painted. But watch out for road salt, which turns it brown and crusty if left on the surface.
If you need to do anything involving getting the wires out, you could always cut it and use connectors to rejoin when you have fitted it on the top of the chassis. Often, you don't need to move it for many years.

zeaphod · Aug 1, 2018

Al2O3 said:
Bloody hell, I'm the odd man out here. I didn't paint mine as I like the galve look. I painted my rad grille and headlight surrounds Zambezi Silver to match. There's only the rear crossmember that shows, unless you put a galve front bumper on, as I did. The rest gets covered in road muck very quickly and you can't tell its galved. I ran my harness through the chassis anorl

I've left mine as well - I like the look. This is the second landy I've had with a galvanised chassis, I've found as long as you wash the salt off (as Turboman has said) you won't have a problem. A quick blast with the power hose is enough - make sure you get into the nooks and crannies - I found salt built up on a fuel tank mount on my SIII.

defenderdog · Aug 1, 2018

Well I’ve just ordered my Mordant solution and satin black paint. Just need to source some etch primer and disassemble what I’ve done and the weekend is looking hot for drying it all out. So fingers crossed

Al2O3 · Aug 1, 2018

Yeah, I like the look too. I tiled the ensuite last year and found a clear, waterproofing spray. It's amazing stuff, the water still stands on it even on the floor of the shower. I'm contemplating metal polishing the front galve bumper and rear cross member and spraying them with it

Murdo1uk · Aug 1, 2018

Paint it after t washing, did mine chassis black. Bought a huge tin of paint from jawel paints and sprayed 8 coats on.

defenderdog · Aug 3, 2018

Will let you know how it all goes.

Hippo · Aug 4, 2018

Take some pic's anorl

defenderdog · Aug 4, 2018

Well it didn’t happen. The company I ordered all my materials from sent out the wrong stuff so as it was Friday delivery I am s**t out of luck this weekend. Might get a chance this week but so busy with work it may have to go on the back burner for a while. However all was not lost as I clean my engine down ready to strip and paint. So something got done at least.

Beneagles · Aug 5, 2018

I washed it, T-washed it, Etch Primed it (no pic) Hi-build primed it and finally Satin blacked it:

And then summer arrived and I have been way too busy to get on with the next stage!

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