Discodevon

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #1

Hi guys

Just a heads up
Some of you will no this already but went to buy Genuine oil filters today..opened the boxs and they are stamped Mann + Hummel

So if your buying genuine then save yourself some money and buy Mann oil filters... They are exactly the same as genuine except don't have Land Rover painted on

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #2

Cheers,

I find it much easier to just buy britpart filter set.

They all come together then....

Cheers

 

brian47

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #3

I've just bought a set of filters for my Td5 Disco from JGS-4x4 through Ebay.
Complete set of Mahle filters; oil, air, fuel, centrifugal and a copper washer for the sump plug. £17.24, the lot. If you change your filters regularly then there's generally no need to get overly worried about the quality, they all meet the same basic spec.
AFAIK there are only one or two motor filter manufacturers in the UK. Fram filters who used to be in Llantrisant used to make filters for all manner of different users who just badged them as their own. It's been happening in many different industries for not years, but decades.

 

Discodevon

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #4

Hi I had Mahle on there before, just changed to Mann and engine runs better... Maybe it's in my head but sounds smoother!

 

DaveM-sport

Active Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #5

I just use Britpart filters and change them every 5000 miles. No issues so far with oil or fuel systems

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #6

@brian47 ,

I had that set, check what make your centrifugal filter is , the one in my kit was a bearmach one and it made a hell of a noise, replaced with another filter again bearmach brand from JGS and it was much quieter.

Cheers

 

Shifty1962

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #7

Be careful with non genuine rotor filters as often the brass central bearing is a tad too long (about 1mm) which causes the rotor to bind when the lid is screwed shut. If it dont spin it dont filter. An easy way to check is that when you turn the engine off you should hear the rotor slowing down for up to 30 seconds on a warm engine less on a cold engine. Many peeps mistake this noise for the turbo slowing down. Get a lobg screwdriver and use it as a stethoscope on the rotor housing if you are not sure. I have managed to "adjust" the cheaper rotor filters so they will spin but it is a right pain and you need to make sure that the brass filings are all cleared out before fitting. Just saying.

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2017

• #8

Shifty1962 said:

Be careful with non genuine rotor filters as often the brass central bearing is a tad too long (about 1mm) which causes the rotor to bind when the lid is screwed shut. If it dont spin it dont filter. An easy way to check is that when you turn the engine off you should hear the rotor slowing down for up to 30 seconds on a warm engine less on a cold engine. Many peeps mistake this noise for the turbo slowing down. Get a lobg screwdriver and use it as a stethoscope on the rotor housing if you are not sure. I have managed to "adjust" the cheaper rotor filters so they will spin but it is a right pain and you need to make sure that the brass filings are all cleared out before fitting. Just saying.

Click to expand...

I measured the LR original against the bearmach one, the difference in height was within 0.1mm, plus no chance it was binding, the noise it was making, it was rattling around in there like a good one. Changed it for another that bearmach one and it sounded much better, that measured exactly the same.

In fact, here is the vid I made.



Cheers