C

Charybdis

New Member
Hi All

Since picking up the Classic, there are a couple of jobs to do, which would be fine if I weren't a mechanical numty.

1. The transfer gearbox leaks a tiny amount of oil. Some of the bolts in the inspection plate need replacing to pull it tighter against the gasket. What bolts should I use for this? Are they M6/M8 or something else?

2. The auto gearbox seems to "slip" at speeds up to 35 mph. On kickdown, the car gathers itself, then shoots off just fine. One friend suggested adding "Wynn's Automatic Transmission & Power Steering Stop Leak" - link below. He reckoned this would sort out the problem. To me, that seems just too easy. Is it worth doing? As far as I can tell the gearbox doesn't leak so is this barking up the wrong tree?

Halfords | Wynn's Automatic Transmission & Power Steering Stop Leak

All replies gratefully received. I am keen to learn as I go but the limit of my success so far was changing the battery yesterday that was deader than Elvis.
 
Charybdis said:
Hi All

Since picking up the Classic, there are a couple of jobs to do, which would be fine if I weren't a mechanical numty.

1. The transfer gearbox leaks a tiny amount of oil. Some of the bolts in the inspection plate need replacing to pull it tighter against the gasket. What bolts should I use for this? Are they M6/M8 or something else?

2. The auto gearbox seems to "slip" at speeds up to 35 mph. On kickdown, the car gathers itself, then shoots off just fine. One friend suggested adding "Wynn's Automatic Transmission & Power Steering Stop Leak" - link below. He reckoned this would sort out the problem. To me, that seems just too easy. Is it worth doing? As far as I can tell the gearbox doesn't leak so is this barking up the wrong tree?

Halfords | Wynn's Automatic Transmission & Power Steering Stop Leak

All replies gratefully received. I am keen to learn as I go but the limit of my success so far was changing the battery yesterday that was deader than Elvis.
Click to expand...
Try Lucas Transmission Fix - look on the bay.....

Great reports of it on here - even one of the Grand Masters (Datatek) reccommends to try it....

It cleans the valves so they operate better - the slippage can be caused by the valves sticking in places and as such not fully engaging the clutch/gear/etc properly....
 
It depends what you mean by slip. The torque converter is a fluid flywheel it will slip that is how it works. If you mean the engine revs are rising without the car going anywhere then that would be the drive engagement clutch pack. Think i would be changing the fluid and filter and sticking some Lucas in it.
 
The car is going fine. It just feels that at lower speeds, it isn't picking up as it should. If it had a manual gearbox, it would feel like the clutch "slipping" as if I had my foot inadvertently left on the clutch.
 
Charybdis said:
The car is going fine. It just feels that at lower speeds, it isn't picking up as it should. If it had a manual gearbox, it would feel like the clutch "slipping" as if I had my foot inadvertently left on the clutch.
Click to expand...

It does have a clutch slipping, it's called the torque converter. Inside it there is a vane driven by the engine and a vane connected to the gearbox input shaft. They are close together and at low revs the fluid flows between them, as the revs increase the fluid cannot flow through the gap fast enough so the drive vane drags the driven vane around with it.
 
Charybdis said:
So is it worth using the additive or would I just be wasting my hard-earned?
Click to expand...

By all accounts the Lucas additive is very good. Your box will be mechanical and a sticky valve block can destroy the clutches. So i would say it's worth a punt. Look around though the prices on Ebay vary immensely from seller to seller.
 
Certainly worth doing an oil & filter change if you don't know when it was last done.
Lucas Transmission fix worked for me for a good while, just about to chuck some more in.
 
Recent oil change and transmission fluid, according to previous owner. Have just gone and picked up the Lucas Fix, now going to put it in and see if it makes a difference.
 
Well, I have stuck half a bottle of the stuff into the gearbox sump via the dipstick tube.

I let the engine warm up in N then poured it in, selected each of the gears and took it for a test drive.

So far, it seems to have improved matters but will need to see over time.

Snake oil perhaps but well worth a few £ to try it out before spending more to diagnose the problem. After all, not being familiar with the RRC I don't know if a slight sluggishness to respond to throttle inputs at lower speeds is normal or not in a 26 year old vehicle.
 
Charybdis said:
Well, I have stuck half a bottle of the stuff into the gearbox sump via the dipstick tube.

I let the engine warm up in N then poured it in, selected each of the gears and took it for a test drive.

So far, it seems to have improved matters but will need to see over time.

Snake oil perhaps but well worth a few £ to try it out before spending more to diagnose the problem. After all, not being familiar with the RRC I don't know if a slight sluggishness to respond to throttle inputs at lower speeds is normal or not in a 26 year old vehicle.
Click to expand...


LR auto's are a little slugish, weight of vehicle and spec of torque convertor.
 
lucas ****e is excellent...sorted a totally fubarred mitz auto out...55 flat out before...100 + after..(slipping)
 
Hope to replace the bolts in the transfer box today. I have got replacement M8 (25mm from tip to underside of head of bolt) but these are longer than the ones that are to be replaced.

Will I damage anything by using these bolts?
 
Charybdis said:
Hope to replace the bolts in the transfer box today. I have got replacement M8 (25mm from tip to underside of head of bolt) but these are longer than the ones that are to be replaced.

Will I damage anything by using these bolts?
Click to expand...

Check the thread first as the ones that came out might be imperial not metric. What age is the Rangy?
 
1986 Vogue Efi. I have tried one bolt and it fits in tightly. I am just a bit nervous that if it is too long it might damage something, like screwing in a bolt at the front end of a Series LR and rupturing the radiator!
 
How much longer are they? If its only a small bit you could put a washer on to space it out.
 
About 10mm longer. I put up original post before removing a bolt. When it said M8 x 25mm I got a few of those but on removing the first bolt, it is only about 15mm from tip to underside of bolt head. I thought the longer ones might be better at holding it all together since the problem was a slight "weeping" of oil but I want to be sure I am not going to damage anything.
 
Charybdis said:
About 10mm longer. I put up original post before removing a bolt. When it said M8 x 25mm I got a few of those but on removing the first bolt, it is only about 15mm from tip to underside of bolt head. I thought the longer ones might be better at holding it all together since the problem was a slight "weeping" of oil but I want to be sure I am not going to damage anything.
Click to expand...
it has had wrong bolts fitted at one time then ,most are m8 x 30mm but 25mm is more than adequate
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

feyniriel
P38 1999 2.5 diesel automatic transmission grinding?
2
Replies
31
Views
2K
Rubberknees
Rubberknees
A
P38A Head Gasket Kit & ARP Bolts ?
2
Replies
23
Views
734
enjoi
enjoi
MrGorsky
P38A Front Crankshaft Oil Seal Speedi Sleeve
Replies
6
Views
651
Ratae
R
I
L322 Could anyone help with 2005 RR HSE fluids questions?
Replies
0
Views
597
invisible999
I
AH-4x4
Help ending my leak - 200TDI
Replies
10
Views
482
AH-4x4
AH-4x4