deangermouse
Active Member
If it's a td4 then you have to remove the iRd box as there is a bolt holding the gearbox on behind it. I have seen it mentioned on previous threads.
Yeah, been struggling again and comparing the new gearbox. Looks like you're right.
Got the IRD loosened and out of the way so I could access the bolt I'd missed. New gearbox now in but I'm having a hell of a time getting the IRD to fit back on. I can get it to within 10mm of being pushed back in but the bolts lock up completely and won't force it the rest of the way. I've jiggled and wiggled and taken it off and tried refitting several times and I'm stumped.
I can turn the output flange easily. Drive shafts are still out of the vehicle. I've also tried turning the engine using the bottom pulley. Tomorrow is another day and I'll be fresher for having another go. It was late in the day by the time I got as far as refitting the IRD and my arms were knackered by then. It might go first try tomorrow.
It's in! Still took a couple of tries and you're right Nodge, the outer splines weren't meshing. It didn't help that I hadn't put the gearbox into gear when I was turning the engine. Once I did that I could see the IRD give a little kick when the splines meshed. It pulled in easily on the bolts then. Just everything else to connect back up now and refill the fluids. Thanks to all who replied.
Now, any tips on how to bleed the clutch? Doesn't look like you can connect an Eazibleed to the reservoir. Is it just the old fashioned pumping the clutch pedal method?
Now, any tips on how to bleed the clutch? Doesn't look like you can connect an Eazibleed to the reservoir. Is it just the old fashioned pumping the clutch pedal method?
All gearbox work completed this morning. I've driven it up and down the drive a couple of times but there's still a problem. The clutch only just barely disengages and you have to fight to get it into every gear. As it is it's still undriveable. I've spent considerable time bleeding the clutch cylinder but the pedal effort is still negiligible. Wonder if there's a trick to it or if I've got a dodgy cylinder?
I found a handy guide on here which detailed doing it a different way to the way I did it so I tried that and I've got enough improvement to be able to drive it now. Still doesn't seem right though. I've put about half a litre of clutch fluid through the system and it's still only just enough to be able to change gear. I'll give it another go tomorrow and see if it improves.
EDIT: This is the guide I used:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial.137699/#post-1403655
EDIT: This is the guide I used:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial.137699/#post-1403655
Just to update and close this issue: I replaced the master clutch servo and this cured the clutch problem.
