rogerowen

New Member
Hi,

I'm replaceing TB front bearing (Box in situ). Mr Haynes says EP80/90 for TB - but does not tell me how much - I'm guessing about 2 Lt?

Also book says gearbox (Manual) uses ATF!!! Surely should be MTF??? Again, no ref to capacity of gearbox. Lots??

Also, the old TB bearing was completely kippered - half the balls had fallen out of the race (not sure where they are now!). Rest of the race was as dry as a n*ns and very corroded. The fluid that came out of the box was about 50cc of milky clay coloured gunk.

Bearing was a s*d to get out as it had welded itself to the shaft - but a bit of MIG heat got the better of it in the end. H&S would have a field day with me!

Anyway, I'm thinking of a way of flushing out the box. I've got some engine flushing oil and thought I might as well run that through (box static) a few times before loading up with EP80. Then run car and drain and refill with fresh EP. Don't think it would be a good idea to run box on a lighter oil to flush as it might muck up the grease on bearings.

Any thoughts? Anyone.:confused:
 
3 litres of each will do, atf was used at the time and still is fine to use ,regular changes been more important ,youd be beter with a telescopic magnet to get bigger pieces out , grease on bearings ?hmm if your going off road/wading etc check oil /drain and refill if necessar after ,extended breather pips dont make the box water proof or axles wheel bearings etc etc
 
Hi,

I'm replaceing TB front bearing (Box in situ). Mr Haynes says EP80/90 for TB - but does not tell me how much - I'm guessing about 2 Lt?

Also book says gearbox (Manual) uses ATF!!! Surely should be MTF??? Again, no ref to capacity of gearbox. Lots??

Also, the old TB bearing was completely kippered - half the balls had fallen out of the race (not sure where they are now!). Rest of the race was as dry as a n*ns and very corroded. The fluid that came out of the box was about 50cc of milky clay coloured gunk.

Bearing was a s*d to get out as it had welded itself to the shaft - but a bit of MIG heat got the better of it in the end. H&S would have a field day with me!

Anyway, I'm thinking of a way of flushing out the box. I've got some engine flushing oil and thought I might as well run that through (box static) a few times before loading up with EP80. Then run car and drain and refill with fresh EP. Don't think it would be a good idea to run box on a lighter oil to flush as it might muck up the grease on bearings.

Any thoughts? Anyone.:confused:

This is from the defender manual but i am sure it is the same for the disco, pending on gear box type maybe a touch more or less.
Gearbox 2.67 litres ATF
Transfer box 2.3 litres ep 80/90

I would skip using engine flush and fill with 80/90 and then drain and refill after 100 miles
 
3 litres of each will do, atf was used at the time and still is fine to use ,regular changes been more important ,youd be beter with a telescopic magnet to get bigger pieces out , grease on bearings ?hmm if your going off road/wading etc check oil /drain and refill if necessar after ,extended breather pips dont make the box water proof or axles wheel bearings etc etc
Many thanks for the advice. Re: Grease on new bearing - I'm following the Busterbus guide apart from the slide hammer part - I made up a homemade puller instead.
 
Many thanks for the advice. Re: Grease on new bearing - I'm following the Busterbus guide apart from the slide hammer part - I made up a homemade puller instead.
its not necessary in bearing but helps hold the garter spring in place in the seall when fitting the seal , oil in box will lube the bearing
 

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