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Adsies99

New Member
Hi I'm new here
I drove my series 3 landy for the first time on the road and I found there is a problem with 4th gear and I'm guessing the 2nd and first synchromesh
When driving along going up through the gears everything is fine until 4th gear where all through the Rev range you can feel a heavy vibrating while holding onto the gearstick what I would describe it as, is that it's allmost slipping out of gear like the selector is jumping just slightly that's about all I can describe that now when going back down through the gears when I put into 2nd it grinds like he'll but 2nd to first is fine

Any help will be greatly appreciated if you need anymore info just ask thanks
Adam
 
Before you get hounded pop an introduction in the box. Welcome to the world of old Land Rovers, your gearbox issues do sound a bit like general wear. Try double de clutching up and down the box, blip the throttle when going through neutral on downshifts to pick the revs up to road speed. Most important with an old worn box don't rush the changes.
You could have something simple like a loose mainshaft nut ( they should be torqued up to 85lb not hammered with a drift), loose handbrake drum or worn UJs. Where are you based ? bound to be someone local to advise. I have made some mainshaft tools to loan out, 2 with me in South Staffs, 1 in Wakefield and 1 in Manchester area. Post is around £6 but I do ask for a £20 deposit to make sure they come back to me for others to use.
 
I made my own mainshaft tool. Welded a bit of scaffold tube to the end of an old socket (think it was 1" 1/16th ) then used a grinder carefully to cut the castles. If you wrap a jubilee clip around the tube before grinding you can get the castles to a uniform height
 
I'm based down in Devon and I do belive my step dad has a main shaft tool but not certain the only thing I'm not sure on is what the transmission oil level is on. Also I don't really want to be taking the gearbox apart or even off for that matter as I've only just put it together and yes I know about double clutching but it still grinds going down into second but not form second to first so I am still unsure about that one. I'm fairly mechanical minded so I can repair the box if that ends up being the case but depending on how much money I have I might look for a box that's a bit stronger and maybe a 5 speed so the engine can have a bit more of a rest while driving
Couple of good things of the old girl is that when I got her the previous owner had just done an engine rebuild so the engine is good

Also what sort of speeds should be possible from and old series, seeming I've heard alot of people talking 50-60 mph with there foot right down mine wont even try go above 25 is that something to worry about or just live with?? And thanks for your replies and how would I know if it is the main shaft ??
Shouldn't be the drum brake of ujs because there all new
 
id have some one look at the box before it gets worse , its only going to cost more as part become beyond re-use
 
Is it stuck in low range? That could explain the low top speed.

Park it on level ground and take the filler plug out of the gearbox, stick your finger in, oil level should be level with the bottom of the hole, same goes for the transfer box (seperate oil for the 2 but both are EP-90).

With an overdrive you can easily get to 70, without then 50 is reasonable in a series especially if the engine's been rebuilt

To check the mainshaft nut, take the back cover off and mainshaft gear (or overdrive if fitted), you should then be able to see the mainshaft nut, a round castellated thing, you should be able to tell if its loose
 
Adsies99 said:
Hi I'm new here

I drove my series 3 landy for the first time on the road and I found there is a problem with 4th gear and I'm guessing the 2nd and first synchromesh

When driving along going up through the gears everything is fine until 4th gear where all through the Rev range you can feel a heavy vibrating while holding onto the gearstick what I would describe it as, is that it's allmost slipping out of gear like the selector is jumping just slightly that's about all I can describe that now when going back down through the gears when I put into 2nd it grinds like he'll but 2nd to first is fine



Any help will be greatly appreciated if you need anymore info just ask thanks

Adam
Click to expand...


Hi, what was the outcome of this as daughter is having the exact problem at the moment with her series 111. She is going to get someone who knows about them to take a look but a general direction would be helpful.
 
Rachel S said:
Hi, what was the outcome of this as daughter is having the exact problem at the moment with her series 111. She is going to get someone who knows about them to take a look but a general direction would be helpful.
Click to expand...

let me know her exact symptoms
 
jamesmartin said:
let me know her exact symptoms
Click to expand...


Hi James. Sorry I missed the notification.

Gear change is ok till she gets to Third or forth. Then it's shaking, vibrating and what she describes as a brrrrr noise. like it wants to jump out. There's a bit of a burning smell, nothing much but enough for her to notice. I asked if she's riding the clutch and she was mortified I'd asked. So it's a no. Then it becomes difficult to get back into First gear at junctions.

It's the best I can describe. The local series friend is away and we are no experts so will need clear instructions on what to check and look for. Im trying to save money for her as she's upset that it looks like a new gear box when she did a little research herself and as I've said, till she can get training with the police her money is limited ( we'll help of course but I'm trying to make her see that these cars can be fixed and not scrapped because the cost. She loves Dotty very much)
 
In the light of mr.martin's disappearance, I will take a wild swing at this one and guess the spring or springs the 3/4 synchro unit. If the oil is drained, you may a find a bit that confirms this.
I think it's a gearbox out job to replace and the longer it's driven, the more damage could occur.
 
SpringDon said:
In the light of mr.martin's disappearance, I will take a wild swing at this one and guess the spring or springs the 3/4 synchro unit. If the oil is drained, you may a find a bit that confirms this.
I think it's a gearbox out job to replace and the longer it's driven, the more damage could occur.
Click to expand...


God that sounds hard.

She hasn't driven it since it did it. Ok thanks loads.
 
Have a check of the following.
Is the handbrake fully off brakes shoes will give same smell as clutch plate.
Drive it a couple of miles and check all wheels for heat in any brake drums
Is it out of 4wd.
Check clutch fluid level under bonnet.
If clutch not disengaging hard to select gears.
Have a look at rear propshaft of Universal joints are failing it will vibrate and noise gets higher at speed.
 
Hi, Ok so it's the weekend and we are in it.
We took the car about a mile down the road, the pinkish disk on the top left at the bottom of the prop shaft got very hot and it seems to be seizing and jamming ( out of gear)
Also, could someone tell me what the lever is on the bottom right? There was a piece of wood jammed in it, any ideas?

So basically, could a knackered prop shaft cause the above problems?

ae35f490be5b7fa71746eeb4e3cedf87.jpg
 
If by pinkish disc yu mean the handbrake drum, with the propshaft coming through the middle of it, then I would guess the handbrake is binding on, try check, adjust, lubricate the linkage would be my first port of call.

Its years since I have had a series, but think lever is to select hi/lo. someone will confirm or otherwise shortly :)
 
Rachel S said:
Thanks Turbs. We are looking through the manual to find out how to check the drum etc now. :)
Click to expand...

It is a fairly basic mechanism, but sometimes dirt and straw, etc. gets in the joints, or they wear, or it may have been just adjusted badly.

Both with the linkage, and your other issues, you would help yourselves a lot if you got a tin of degreaser and a stiff brush, and went over the gearbox, and then rinsed it off with a hose, or even better a pressure washer. ;)

You would be able to see what is going on, and spot oil leaks etc. Also make it much more pleasant to work on! :)
 
Turboman said:
It is a fairly basic mechanism, but sometimes dirt and straw, etc. gets in the joints, or they wear, or it may have been just adjusted badly.

Both with the linkage, and your other issues, you would help yourselves a lot if you got a tin of degreaser and a stiff brush, and went over the gearbox, and then rinsed it off with a hose, or even better a pressure washer. ;)

You would be able to see what is going on, and spot oil leaks etc. Also make it much more pleasant to work on! :)
Click to expand...


Right.. Point taken! lol sooo could the drum be totally unrelated to the problems Hollys having with the gears?
 
If the handbrake is binding when you try to change gears the brake will be slowing you down so making it harder for synchros to get things synchronised hence harder to engage gear.
The linkage bottom right is a power take off linkage for driving tools.
That propshaft universal joint looks like it needs greasing .
But sort the handbrake 1st there is a small square adjuster towards passenger side and the linkages is adjusted on the rod at top where it joins the lever.
The pivot point on the chassis for th.e lever could also be seized if has not been used for awhile
 
that is so corroded, I would be inclined to drop that propshaft, remove the handbrake drum and have a look at the handbrake mechanism, cleaning and regreasing all moving parts.
It doesnt look as if it has been touched for years.

check both uj's and grease if possible.
 
Thanks. It's all starting to make a little sense. Looks like we need a grease gun ( I was like " so we need a tub of grease")
We'll get there :)
 
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