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PopRivet

Well-Known Member
Hi. I've just renewed the gearbox (fully synthetic) oil in my 2006 FL1 Td4, manual, and it took 1.85 litres of oil. The car was perfectly level so no problems there. I measured what went in, and of course what came out. And, it too was 1.85 litres, although as black as tar. It's only a guess, but I reckon the oil had never been changed. My FL1 has only done 85k miles, so it may not be so bad.
Has anyone else had to put in the same amount? It's quite disconcerting as the Owner's Manual and others, including Threads on LandyZone, state 1.6 litres only. I basically filled it until an overflow appeared from the filler hole. Hmm.
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Colthebrummie said:
Does your gearbox seem any better for the oil change?

Col
Click to expand...
Hi Col. The answer is YES, it is. Smoother & quieter with an easy gearchange, although it was never a problem anyway.
I read on another LZ Thread that another FL1 owner had replaced the gear oil with synthetic, which is one main reason for doing it myself. His FL1 also felt and sounded better.
I'll be taking it our again tomorrow, for a much longer haul.
If there are any problems I'll inform all through this Thread.
 
PopRivet said:
Hi Col. The answer is YES, it is. Smoother & quieter with an easy gearchange, although it was never a problem anyway.
I read on another LZ Thread that another FL1 owner had replaced the gear oil with synthetic, which is one main reason for doing it myself. His FL1 also felt and sounded better.
I'll be taking it our again tomorrow, for a much longer haul.
If there are any problems I'll inform all through this Thread.
Click to expand...
Like you, I have no idea when my gearbox oil was last changed, if ever. My box isn't particularly noisy but the changes could be better, at first I thought it was me getting used to a manual box again. I've read on here that you can replace ordinary manual gearbox oil for auto transmission fluid.

Col
 
I'm just back from a good run today. The car not only feels smoother but also sounds it. Gear changing had never been an issue in the past, but I must say it's even better.
My wife agrees as well, and for her to recognise any kind of differences they have to be large.
So, fully synthetic oil in the Gearbox and IRD. Brill!
 
PopRivet said:
I'm just back from a good run today. The car not only feels smoother but also sounds it. Gear changing had never been an issue in the past, but I must say it's even better.
My wife agrees as well, and for her to recognise any kind of differences they have to be large.
So, fully synthetic oil in the Gearbox and IRD. Brill!
Click to expand...
Which oil did you use please?
 
Old diver said:
Which oil did you use please?
Click to expand...
Hi. The oils I'm using are as follows:-
Gearbox = 75w - 80 Synthetic API GL4+ made by 'ad oils'. It's a Spanish producer, A.D.Parts S.L.
IRD = 75w - 90 Synthetic Gear S90, API GL4/GL5, made by Xtreme.
Engine = 10w/40 Premium Synthetic (gas/diesel) made by Kraft.
Rear Diff = 75w - 90 Synthetic Gear S90 ---- the same as the IRD.

I'm planning to change the engine oil this coming week with a 5w/30 Castrol oil. I've found a local garage that stocks it - at last.
I have done regular oil changes, where I actually have a stock of 12 oil filters in my garage. Bought in bulk from Ebay.

I hope this helps.
 
PopRivet said:
I'm planning to change the engine oil this coming week with a 5w/30 Castrol oil.
Click to expand...

Use 10w40 in the engine. 5w30 is too thin to support the bearings correctly, especially in an engine that's over warranty mileage. 5w30 is only specified to improve fuel efficiency, by reducing windage losses. It has no place in an engine in the real world, especially as far south as you are located. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Use 10w40 in the engine. 5w30 is too thin to support the bearings correctly, especially in an engine that's over warranty mileage. 5w30 is only specified to improve fuel efficiency, by reducing windage losses. It has no place in an engine in the real world, especially as far south as you are located. ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks, Nodge. I was in two minds about using the 5w/30 , especially as it resembles cocal-cola when being poured, such is its viscosity.
Your advice is very welcome.
 
Old diver said:
Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...
Hi Old Diver. Nodge68 has advised me to stick to the 10W/40 engine oil, giving his reasons too. I'm following his advice.
I'm looking at your Handle & location, Old diver - Dunfermline, reckoning you might be ex-Navy, having left at Rosyth.
My wife & I hail from St Andrews, with family members living close by.
It's a small world.
 
Spot on, 24 years in the RN, 20 as a clearance diver. My wife was from Edinburgh and I have been up here since 66. Originally from Lancashire.
 
PopRivet said:
Thanks, Nodge. I was in two minds about using the 5w/30 , especially as it resembles cocal-cola when being poured, such is its viscosity.
Your advice is very welcome.
Click to expand...
Wish I had seen this last week, I bought 7 litres of good 5w/30. I will check out the 10w/40.
 
also 5w 30 is no good in an engine that has done over say 20,000 as Nodge68 says but then I re read you say swap auto gearbox fluid and power steering fluid for as they are the same for manual gear box oil please do not you will start having problems .
 
I disagree about 5w 30w.
I have a vw transporter 289000 miles and the freelancer on 165000 miles which both run 5w 30w.
Neither use any oil between services.
The 30w is the important bit.If in doubt go 5w 40w.
The quality of the oil is more important than the numbers.
 
webley said:
I disagree about 5w 30w.
I have a vw transporter 289000 miles and the freelancer on 165000 miles which both run 5w 30w.
Neither use any oil between services.
The 30w is the important bit.If in doubt go 5w 40w.
The quality of the oil is more important than the numbers.
Click to expand...
VW engines are much stronger than the M47R used in the FL1. So the oil viscosity is less important to keep the engine in good health and can be discounted as it's irrelevant.

LR recommendations are based on spec and the environmental temperature the vehicle is running in, but there have been several owners handbook revisions, which clouds the issue.

The latest data is below.

Spec must been meet ACEA ; A3 & B3.
And the temp range is;
- 30°C to + 35°C, 5w30 is recommended.
-30°C to + 50°C, 5w40 is recommended.
-10°C to + 50°C, 10w40 is recommended.

So it's clear that for summer use in the UK, a 5w30 is running right it the top of its working temperature range, giving almost no safety margin. For Portugal (where the OP is located) a 5w30 is too thin and not supporting the bearings correctly.

Therefore it's best to use the 5w40 if the winter is very cold or a 10w40 if winter's are mild. Both of these grades will support the bearings correctly, in all temperatures the vehicle is likely to be used in.

The TD4 is already known to break cranks, so it's better not to increase the likelihood, by using an oil that doesn't give adequate bearing support. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
VW engines are much stronger than the M47R used in the FL1. So the oil viscosity is less important to keep the engine in good health and can be discounted as it's irrelevant.

LR recommendations are based on spec and the environmental temperature the vehicle is running in, but there have been several owners handbook revisions, which clouds the issue.

The latest data is below.

Spec must been meet ACEA ; A3 & B3.
And the temp range is;
- 30°C to + 35°C, 5w30 is recommended.
-30°C to + 50°C, 5w40 is recommended.
-10°C to + 50°C, 10w40 is recommended.

So it's clear that for summer use in the UK, a 5w30 is running right it the top of its working temperature range, giving almost no safety margin. For Portugal (where the OP is located) a 5w30 is too thin and not supporting the bearings correctly.

Therefore it's best to use the 5w40 if the winter is very cold or a 10w40 if winter's are mild. Both of these grades will support the bearings correctly, in all temperatures the vehicle is likely to be used in.

The TD4 is already known to break cranks, so it's better not to increase the likelihood, by using an oil that doesn't give adequate bearing support. ;)
Click to expand...
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So... in reply... if I were to use a synthetic 10W/40 oil that is ACEA A3 & B4, would that be detrimental? Instead of A3 & B3?
 
In addition to my previous comments, there are other Threads concerning my question about the difference between A3 & B3.
I appears there is very little and it has something to do with viscosity, more than anything else.
Also, the concensus of opinion in such that when a garage changes the oil they will just pour in what they have to hand.
I could very well believe that, which is why I do all my own servicings, repairs, etc.
So, I have just carried out an engine oil change today. It's a 10W/40 Synthetic, ACEA A3 / B3 Made by Total Quartz 7000 Energy.
Phew, they do love to give their products great names.
The car is running great, what with all the oils being changed and Gearchange linkages greased underneath.
Tyre pressures checked to 31 PSI each and the car cleaned inside & Out.
It's like new - feels it too.
I recently did a fuel consumption check as well, and it turns out to be 40 MPG.
I do tend to drive at 80 Kph (50 Mph) so that helps. I think some call it "Thrify-fifty".
And I prefer not to use my air conditioning as it just drinks the fuel.
So there you are. Sorted.
 
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