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Gramuno

New Member

• Oct 8, 2011

• #1

Hi all, Newbie here from Kent, as ever with a problem that is causing me to tear my hair out!

I have an intermittant fault where all the above fuse faults come up also causing the lights on the entire right hand side of the car to fail.

When it does this and i get out i have to lock the car with the key in the door instead of pressing the button.

Not sure if it is related or not but the rear doors never lock/unlock off the key or remote, and the instrument cluster lights never illuminate when the lights are on.

I've checked the battery to see if it is on it's way out but battery and alternator showing 13.9V when idling.

I've tried searching for what to check but drawn a blank after looking at all of the other RR sites etc. I'm fairly competant with electrics, however I can't but feel a little wary of pulling fuses yet as i've only had the car for a week and haven't checked the EKA code with a dealer yet as i only have it written down on a piece of paper.

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Gramuno

 

jt_armstrong

Well-Known Member

• Oct 8, 2011

• #2

I think you may have a problem in your fusebox. Caused by corrosion and heat stress. I believe one of the common symptoms is trouble with HVAC systems. Also check for signs of overheating on some of the relays (will look a bit brown).

 

Datatek

Well-Known Member

• Oct 8, 2011

• #3

Yep, check the underbonnet fuse box for signs/smells of burning, blued contacts etc, it's a common cause of problems.

 

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Gramuno

New Member

• Oct 8, 2011

• #4

Hi,

Thanks for your quick replies, can i just pull the fuses one at a time with the ignition off, is there any i shouldn't just pull out....At the moment it starts and drives and don't want to cause any problems making it immobile or risk having to use the EKA code as I haven't had it verified it is correct by Land Rover yet. I don't want to have to push (cough) it off the drive to get my other car out if it dies!

 

Datatek

Well-Known Member

• Oct 8, 2011

• #5

On my diesels, I've never had a problem disconnecting things, if it's a V8 that might be a different story. Wait for someone else to answer. To be safe make sure you have the correct EKA code before you start.

 

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Donater

• Oct 8, 2011

• #6

All those fuses are under seat are common to BECM and feed various units. You have a long road to travel. Could be several things. Checking connections to BECM maybe a start point.

 

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Poochyricko

Member

• Oct 8, 2011

• #7

I had the same problem last year in a snow storm. The same fuses were registered as being blown as yours but it wasnt a intermittant fault.
After much searching i found that the Main Fuse 4 had been botched and rammed back into the fuse box. The idiot that owed the range before me had wrapped wire around the two legs of the fuse and pushed it back into the fuse box never to be seen again until it failed on me.
Anyway all i did was replace this fuse with a new one and back in business. Hope this helps you, let me know what you find.

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Oct 9, 2011

• #8

Remove the connectors going to the fuse box clean them then plug them back.again,if it doesn't fix it replace ur fuse box,search for my thread fuse 12,13,14,15 failed.

 

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Gramuno

New Member

• Oct 9, 2011

• #9

Thanks again all, I've had a good look at the top of the fuse box (engine compartment) and it all looks ok but will be taking it out to check all the connections underneith and the boards for solder joints etc when I get some time....probs not for a couple of weeks though.

In the meantime i can start reading through the workshop and electrical manual, and also get a near side window regulator as the one in the door is completly mashed! I guess someone has previously tried to get it out (with a hammer or something!) as the top fixing point is no longer connected to the regulator, teeth are fine. I was considering just welding it back together but for the cost of a new one it's not worth it.

 

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Gramuno

New Member

• Oct 11, 2011

• #10

Latest update, I have realised the intermittant fault seems to occur after driving about 15/20 minutes...i.e. when the engine compartment is nice and hot therefore like all of your suggestions pointing to the fusebox under the bonnet increasing resitance on the wires/solder tracks when it gets warm.

Now I have the EKA code from Landrover I dissconnected the battery left it for 15mins and reconnected (with the door open). Resynced the keys and started (phew). Was just doing that to make sure i could dissconnect/reconnect the battery when i felt like it before i began to remove more bits.

Intrestingly....to me anyway, whilst i had it running i turned my lights on and to my surprise the instrument lights came on....still throwing fuse faults and the exterior RHS lights not working as the car was still warm after getting home from work, but hopefully I'm getting somehwere!

Fusebox here we come.

 

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Gramuno

New Member

• Oct 18, 2011

• #11

Hi all,

For any that are interested I think I've found the fault.

After removing the fuse box, having a good look at it, seems new anyway, no bad tracks or anything like that but whilst it was off noticed that the loom from it going to the cabin is directly below the coolant expansion tank overflow pipe. I believe the coolant had been pressurising and ejecting it's contents onto the loom hence why only after 20mins driving the electric fault appeared as it was getting drenched.

It had a new radiator fitted and am hoping it just wasn't bled properly causing air locks in the system making it overflow. I've bled it now (to an extent) and moved the overflow pipe so i can see if it is overflowing again and maybe will take the thermostat off next weekend if it looks to be still overflowing......I'm holding out hope that it's not the head gasket, as none of the plugs look steam clean or any water in the oil but here's for hoping!