New tank fitted, and it actually fitted apart from the front three holes being a whole hole out, quick drill of the outrigger in situ so you could not see the mistake, and its job done.

Note for you river counters, 1 the tank sender is on the opposite side of the tank to what it was originally and, 2 the pick up pipe port is at the wrong angle, a quick tweak of the steel fuel pipes and it was all in, even the filler and breather all lined up.
 
Another thing worth knowing is that the captive nuts on the britpart ones are not a BA size like the original. They have been updated to M4. It's much better but I assumed they would have been kept the same as original.
 
lynall said:
New tank fitted, and it actually fitted apart from the front three holes being a whole hole out, quick drill of the outrigger in situ so you could not see the mistake, and its job done.

Note for you river counters, 1 the tank sender is on the opposite side of the tank to what it was originally and, 2 the pick up pipe port is at the wrong angle, a quick tweak of the steel fuel pipes and it was all in, even the filler and breather all lined up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. Was it the tank itself or a replacement outrigger? I've still got my DDS Metals tank yet to fitted but like you I thought it looks and feels good quality. The DDS tank was recommended to me by a Land Rover restorer who has fitted over a dozen of them.
 
Mik87 said:
Thanks for the feedback. Was it the tank itself or a replacement outrigger? I've still got my DDS Metals tank yet to fitted but like you I thought it looks and feels good quality. The DDS tank was recommended to me by a Land Rover restorer who has fitted over a dozen of them.
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure the outrigger is original, in fact the whole chassis is original, tired but original!
The car is a 59 and early ones had different hbrake pivot brackets that fit onto both sides of the chassis, I think later ones went to just a bracket on the inside edge of the chassis, so the bolts that hold the bracket were what was fouling the edge of the tank, if they were not there I think the holes would have lined up.
Even though the rear holes lined up, there was only a 2 to 3mm gap between the tank and the spring hanger.
 
Mik87 said:
I got a 109 rear tank recently - Britpart is all that's available for these.

The rear bracket hole centres were 12mm out and I had to get the bracket cut off and re-welded in the correct position. I complained to Britpart and they said they had no returns in the last two years and had sold thousands of these tanks. So there is no problem as far as they are concerned. They didn't accept my invitation to refund me the extra £40 I spent on getting it to fit.

This will be because no-one ever complains, people just seem to grumble and accept the rubbish parts from these shysters. So for goodness sake, take the time to complain when something doesn't fit/work. You are doing the community a favour. Otherwise the market decides non-fitting, poor quality parts are what we want.

For an 88" tank, I bought a DDS Metals one recently. These are made in Turkey and look well-made, though I've not yet fitted it. I bought this version on the advice of a Land Rover restorer who has fitted over a dozen of them. The price was £125, about the same as a Britpart. Better quality doesn't always cost more, and the time and money wasted by trying to get something to fit makes cheap parts much more expensive than they first appear.

For balance, on the advice of the same restorer, I bought the Britpart G-suffix Series 3 door seals (the early, rivet-on type). These are made in the UK, even the rivet holes lined up and they are nice and pliable. So they can do it properly if they want to.

When installing, make sure the paint coverage is good (the Britpart tank had the metal showing through in places). I also applied Bilt Hamber UC clear wax onto the external surfaces, especially the ones which are inaccessible once installed rav4 capacity. I've used it before and works well.
Click to expand...
my fuel tank has fallen prey to rust at its lowest point. It is leaking, not a lot, but I know its there and will only get worse. I am using Ethanolmate now, but the damage was done in the previous ownership. Is there any patent cure for this, some additive to pour in, like a petrol tank version of rad weld, or gasket repair. There is a firm in Huddersfield or somewhere that will re furbish a petrol tank for about £400. A new tank is about £200 from Franzose. However, I have no idea how to get the thing that is inside the tank, out of the tank, it appears to be bigger than the hole available, and so I don't know how to use an old good tank I already have.
 
The float assembly comes out quite easily
If there's a line of rust where fuel has sat, not sure you'll fix that
 
Once separated from the cradle, I filed holes with fuel tank epoxy then a layer of fibreglass on the base , but you could do all over with a clear coat of epoxy
IMG_0296.jpeg
IMG_0286.jpeg
 
Stainless steel Is expensive, but will last your lifetime, and more, It's an investment the last one you will ever buy, If you are keeping the landy it's the right thing to do, I never regretted it.
 

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I have a DDS tank in the shed but never fitted it. It weighs much more than I expected. It would be interesting to find out how much a britpart one weights in comparison.

I’ll get round to it one day when I have the time to tart up the bits behind the old one.
 
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