andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member
Always on the look out for things to make life easier.

Seeing how most 20 Yr old F1s have a rotted fuel tank cradle and changing it is a bit involved to say the least! Drop rear subframe, prop off etc.

I found these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...-/274136955964?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

I think that you could cut the old cradle, or snap it, feed nthese through the rear subframe without dropping it and, with a couple of checker plates under the tank this might just be an easy solution!?

What problems can anyone see?

I can't see what the centre strap does other than goes rusty!!!
 
That's quite interesting Andy. It looks to be a pair of tank straps, like those fitted to a conventional car. I wonder how the tank would be protected from the IR radiation from the hot exhaust, as the IR deflector shield is part of the tank cradle on the FL1? Although making a deflector wouldn't be that difficult I guess. It would definitely be faster to fit straps compared to the whole cradle, especially if the FL1 doesn't venture off road.
Nice find. ;)
 
Considering most originals have crumbled to the point they are only straps anyway these would probably be OK.
In the past I've made new plates from alloy and slid them into the old brackets to get a few more years out of them.
 
Good shout @andyfreelandy +1

Nodge68 said:
That's quite interesting Andy. It looks to be a pair of tank straps, like those fitted to a conventional car. I wonder how the tank would be protected from the IR radiation from the hot exhaust, as the IR deflector shield is part of the tank cradle on the FL1? Although making a deflector wouldn't be that difficult I guess. It would definitely be faster to fit straps compared to the whole cradle, especially if the FL1 doesn't venture off road.
Nice find. ;)
Click to expand...

The heat shielding is a good point, but I'm sure some creative use of tiger seal* and aluminium could mitigate the issue..
 
I'm thinking the plates could be replicated out of checker plate and fitted as components then the supports bolted on. May have a go on a friend's TD4 who has a rotted main support and wants it looking at.
 
andyfreelandy said:
I'm thinking the plates could be replicated out of checker plate and fitted as components then the supports bolted on. May have a go on a friend's TD4 who has a rotted main support and wants it looking at.
Click to expand...
If the bars are still OK it's a relatively simple job to replace the plates however grinding off the old bars is not for the faint hearted, especially not in a petrol car. :eek:
I used a dremel running very slow to minimise sparks.
 
A reciprocating saw with metal cutting blades is a godsend when working near burny things like petrol tanks as the cut is through separation rather than abrasion and as such doesn't create sparks. Similarly, a die grinder with a carbide burr will remove metal without generating hot sparks - there is actually some brands of burrs that is ATEX Zone-0 rated, that is like can be used to grind inside a gas pipe level of safety.

https://www.duspra.nl/sites/default/files/uploads/1.brochure_rust_atex_grinding_tools.pdf
 
Jayridium said:
A reciprocating saw with metal cutting blades is a godsend when working near burny things like petrol tanks as the cut is through separation rather than abrasion and as such doesn't create sparks. Similarly, a die grinder with a carbide burr will remove metal without generating hot sparks - there is actually some brands of burrs that is ATEX Zone-0 rated, that is like can be used to grind inside a gas pipe level of safety.

https://www.duspra.nl/sites/default/files/uploads/1.brochure_rust_atex_grinding_tools.pdf
Click to expand...
This reply is one of the reasons why I LOVE this forum - every day is a school day :D
 
Andy, didn't someone post a while back about chopping a cheap eBay fuel tank cradle and then using fixings to make it "whole" again in situ in order to avoid dropping the rear subframe etc? Sounded like a very good idea to me...
 
Progressed this one. Bought a pair of straps. Made templates for both side shields and fabricated out of 1.5mm checker plate.

Will post photos.
The strap on the original at the rear is possibly some protection against the rear diff mount failing and the uj hitting the tank???
I will do some measurements but I think the diff flange would hit the subframe first.
Can always add a joining strap.
Plan is to fit it in bits to save hours of labour and possibly pain with seized bolts.
Have bought stainless steel cable ties to bind the plates to the brackets to stop the plates moving although I don't think they are absolutely necessary.

Anyone got a view on the weird middle bit with 2 mysterious holes in!?!?
Screenshot_20210220-164434~2.jpg
 
Hi Andy.
As it goes, a Numty on this subject. If I have it right, are you saying you can change the tank straps/supports with out dropping the rear stuff?
Cos, this is a job I'm looking to do soon.
Sorry to bother you with asking for further clarification, but if so, areally great find.
Cheers.
 
MULDERKE said:
Hi Andy.
As it goes, a Numty on this subject. If I have it right, are you saying you can change the tank straps/supports with out dropping the rear stuff?
Cos, this is a job I'm looking to do soon.
Sorry to bother you with asking for further clarification, but if so, areally great find.
Cheers.
Click to expand...
I've replaced the plates on three cars by cutting out the old ones and pushing the new ones in with just the bolts undone. It is a bit of a pain but the bars are usually OK and it avoids dropping the whole subframe.
 
MULDERKE said:
Sorry to bother you with asking for further clarification, but if so, areally great find.
Click to expand...

No problem!! I have bought the supports as above in this thread. I think they can be threaded into position without removing subframe, exhaust or prop.

I have made plates to match originals.
Photos to follow.
I can tell you how easy or not when I have done it!! I am looking to take one side off, bend old cradle, fit new support and plate on one side. Cut / snap old cradle to get it out then fit other side.

Will report back.
 
Alibro said:
I've replaced the plates on three cars by cutting out the old ones and pushing the new ones in with just the bolts undone. It is a bit of a pain but the bars are usually OK and it avoids dropping the whole subframe.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Need to have a good look at what is needed. would really like not to have to drop the frame.
Cheers
 
andyfreelandy said:
No problem!! I have bought the supports as above in this thread. I think they can be threaded into position without removing subframe, exhaust or prop.

I have made plates to match originals.
Photos to follow.
I can tell you how easy or not when I have done it!! I am looking to take one side off, bend old cradle, fit new support and plate on one side. Cut / snap old cradle to get it out then fit other side.

Will report back.
Click to expand...
Cheers Sir.
 
If it works I may get the plates produced by a local engineering shop and flog the kit. It does seem that everyone that I know with a Freelander now wants a new tank cradle. If it saves 3 or 4 hours labour and the risk of snapping or rounding a rusted bolt then it would be good value.
I will also have a look at whether I think the extra metal work on the original has any function at all other than make it easier to fit on the production line !
 
Whilst this appeared to be an idea most brilliant!!! There are 2 problems having looked at doing a trial fit.
1. The old tank cradle and clips to tank are sandwiched between the body and rear subframe meaning that without a lot of cutting, sadly of the part that doesn't rust!!, of the main cross strap, removal without dropping the subframe looks unlikely or harder work than dropping it.
2. My judgement is that the cross strap and cross plate has a function. We know that the front diff mount fails. In an extreme failure situation of this mount the nose of the diff would hit the cross plate and strap preventing possible tank damage.

For this reason I am going to replicate the cross strap from aluminium to cover this function.
The good news is, if you did fit the new separate support brackets and the plates and strap were assembled under the car, when it NEXT goes rusty it would be a piece of wossisname to repair!!

Photos to follow.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Whilst this appeared to be an idea most brilliant!!! There are 2 problems having looked at doing a trial fit.
1. The old tank cradle and clips to tank are sandwiched between the body and rear subframe meaning that without a lot of cutting, sadly of the part that doesn't rust!!, of the main cross strap, removal without dropping the subframe looks unlikely or harder work than dropping it.
2. My judgement is that the cross strap and cross plate has a function. We know that the front diff mount fails. In an extreme failure situation of this mount the nose of the diff would hit the cross plate and strap preventing possible tank damage.

For this reason I am going to replicate the cross strap from aluminium to cover this function.
The good news is, if you did fit the new separate support brackets and the plates and strap were assembled under the car, when it NEXT goes rusty it would be a piece of wossisname to repair!!

Photos to follow.
Click to expand...
You need to unbolt the cradle but support the fuel tank. I used blocks of wood but some have used luggage straps. It helps if the tank is near empty.
Once unbolted you can pull the cradle down just enough to cut out the rusted plates and pull them out. The new plates need a slot where the old ones have a hole
I've made them with holes to fit large cable ties or steel ties would be even better. Then just cable tie them to the bars.
 
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