Hi, my freelander 2 63 plate SD4 is going into restricted power, no other code coming up just P2263_21, when scanning the pressure readings should range between 0 - 20000 but is reading 50000 + on startup drops slightly after a short time but when revving goes up to 95000? All vac & turbo pipes have been checked and all are good? Any ideas please?
 

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Fuel pressure is fine. Ignore the 20,000 KPA the diag suggests, this engine won't even start at 20k KPA. Normal fuel pressure is between 25,000KPA and 140,000 KPA, depending on load and engine speed.

P2263 is a boost code, so check for boost hose splits, the one by the throttle body is a common failure point.
 
Fuel pressure is fine. Ignore the 20,000 KPA the diag suggests, this engine won't even start at 20k KPA. Normal fuel pressure is between 25,000KPA and 140,000 KPA, depending on load and engine speed.

P2263 is a boost code, so check for boost hose splits, the one by the throttle body is a common failure point.
Thanks for the reply.
I have pulled off every vacuum pipe to physically check them, and they are all good. It's weird because when I clear them, the car pulls like a train until the warning message comes on?
 
Thanks for the reply.
I have pulled off every vacuum pipe to physically check them, and they are all good. It's weird because when I clear them, the car pulls like a train until the warning message comes on?
I'm confused by vacuum pipes, as there aren't any on this engine. Are you meaning the large boost hoses? There are 4 in total.
If a boost code keeps returning, then it's possible the turbo vanes are sticking. There's an operation shown in the service manual on how to free off the turbo vanes.
 
I'm confused by vacuum pipes, as there aren't any on this engine. Are you meaning the large boost hoses? There are 4 in total.
If a boost code keeps returning, then it's possible the turbo vanes are sticking. There's an operation shown in the service manual on how to free off the turbo vanes.
Yes the boost pipes, some have been replaced and the others have been thoroughly checked and are all good. I’ve replaced the throttle body and turbo, which was checked before fitting. These have all been programmed to the vehicle.The turbo is boosting fine. I can clear all the codes, take it out and it will fly for several miles boosting slowing down and boosting again and drives really well but as soon as I stop and it idles for a short time, go to boost it again it goes into restricted power again! The only thing that we haven’t checked on the boost side is the inter cooler. Do you think it could be that?
 
Sounds like it's had far more than it should have. I definitely wouldn't have replaced a turbo, as they're good for about 200k miles. Has it had an air path calibration?
 
Yes, air path calibration done?
It'd be interesting to see the live values graphed using suitable diagnostic equipment. This is what LR should do in these situations, but seldom do. Codes can't always be rallied on for accurate diagnosis in difficult cases.
 
It'd be interesting to see the live values graphed using suitable diagnostic equipment. This is what LR should do in these situations, but seldom do. Codes can't always be rallied on for accurate diagnosis in difficult cases.
I’ve spoken with a Land Rover garage specialist and he thinks it’s still a turbo/actuator issue?
I find this difficult to understand, because when it’s going its boosting really well and pulling like a train until it idles and then goes back into restricted power??
 
I’ve spoken with a Land Rover garage specialist and he thinks it’s still a turbo/actuator issue?
I find this difficult to understand, because when it’s going its boosting really well and pulling like a train until it idles and then goes back into restricted power??
It's possible that the turbo vanes are sticking. Has the vane freeing off procedure been done?
 
What’s required for this procedure?
I can't find the section in the manual where this is described, so this is from memory.
You have to disconnect the vane actuator from the vane control rod, and don't loose the tiny clip. Then move the vanes through their full range of movement several times, and if very sticky move them enough times to free them up. Once free, lubricated the linkages with high melting point lubricant, and reattach the actuator. Don't under any circumstances move the actuator by hand, or it'll damage the gearbox inside.
 
I can't find the section in the manual where this is described, so this is from memory.
You have to disconnect the vane actuator from the vane control rod, and don't loose the tiny clip. Then move the vanes through their full range of movement several times, and if very sticky move them enough times to free them up. Once free, lubricated the linkages with high melting point lubricant, and reattach the actuator. Don't under any circumstances move the actuator by hand, or it'll damage the gearbox inside.
Hi all, after a few short test drives over the last few days it will drive perfectly for a few miles, then go into restricted power when slowing down. But recently on the last couple of drives it seems to be in restricted power but no lights coming on? Then it’s seems to going up to about 2500 revs and not charging up a gear until you come off the revs leave them drop a bit then it changes up? We’re going to run a diagnostics scan on the auto gearbox to see what comes up. Any ideas please? Thanks in advance for your help and support.
 

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