Hi All
Seems that soon the fpr will have to be changed as started to leak slightly (first i have thought oil, but seems now that it is fuel).
Which one should i buy, genuine only or OEM also reliable?
What else will i need (gasket) or everithing included in the new fpr set?

Go genuine and forget about it for a few years

+ for genuine part. Cannot recall if the crush gasket comes with it but a genuine one is only about £3 anyway and cannot be reused. Don't forget to replace the O ring between the FPR and the head part number ERR6761. Clean out the mesh filter behind it, be careful though as they are eye wateringly expensive.

Maybe stupid question, but is there a reliable way to check if it is really the FPR which leaks? More and more think that it is, but for example today after about 50km drive it was bone dry. I cleaned the area already 2 times, so no oil dirt there now. If it is really leaks can it be seen for example when the car is idling or only on higher rpms (i have checked it already, car was idling and i watched for about 1-2min from underneath, nothing).

Keep an eye out and also you’re ear, you may hear the fuel pump has air in it

I knew mine was leaking by the diesel dripping onto the floor. Went from small drops on the floor to an obvious puddle quite quickly. If it is leaking the starter motor is in the way of the drips.

I think I will keep watching it for a while as mine only showing very slight leak (still not sure it it oil or diesel).
I found the leak there (but now it is dry).

My FPR is also in need of work. Daisy is 15 and has needed FPR work almost exactly every 5 years. First time it went a local (and very good) garage changed the whole unit, did a good job but charged me 100s. Second time it went I bought a repair kit off ebay and did it myself for about $40. Discovery2.co.uk has a good piece on it as does Paddocks on YouTube. There are also many excellent line drawings from the Land Rover workshop manual on line. Beware, the Haynes manual FPR section was probably written with the engine on the bench, makes accessibility so much easier. Getting the bottom mounting bolt out is a s0d of a job, I've bought additional 1/4" drive extension bars in preparation for the job on Saturday. It just takes time and patience and perseverance; do not rush. One word of warning: if you have the FPR with 3 pipes connected to it (see Discovery2.co.uk), make sure that in tightening the return pipe from the cylinder head back to the front of the FPR you do not rotate the whole pipe such that the rubber section is touching the cylinder head. If you do, the vibrations of the head will wear through the rubber and leave you stranded (in my case, in the middle of almost nowhere (I live in Australia). If that does happen and the local garage starts bleating about common rails and very high pressure fuel lines, patiently point out that there is only about 100psi in the line and some braided hose and jubilee clips will fix the problem temporarily ('temporarily' in Daisy's case meant 2 years!).