jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
undo 2 x caliper bolt bihex 13mm but 1/2 inch is better fit,
support the botom of swivel housing undo 2 x 17mm top swivel pin bolts to release brake pipe bracket refit at least one bolt to stop ,tie caliper out of the way
undo drive member 5 x 17 mm headed bolts
remove dust cap ,circlip and shims
remove drive member
straighten lock tab on outer bearing nut remove nut tab washer and inner nut
pull hub off ,knock bearing races and seal out
fit new bearings dont use a punch without protecting bearing race use a bearing dolly or old race
grease well fit seal the right way round concave toward bearing
refit ,then solid washer then first nut toghten fully to seat bearings then back off till loose tighten by hand till you just feel all play been removed do it a few times to ensure its corrrect,
ffit new tab washer and outer nut tighten fully lock tab over inner and outer one at one side the other opposite
refit drive member using one bolt to hold cv splines fully through member as you nip it up
support the botom of swivel housing undo 2 x 17mm top swivel pin bolts to release brake pipe bracket refit at least one bolt to stop ,tie caliper out of the way
undo drive member 5 x 17 mm headed bolts
remove dust cap ,circlip and shims
remove drive member
straighten lock tab on outer bearing nut remove nut tab washer and inner nut
pull hub off ,knock bearing races and seal out
fit new bearings dont use a punch without protecting bearing race use a bearing dolly or old race
grease well fit seal the right way round concave toward bearing
refit ,then solid washer then first nut toghten fully to seat bearings then back off till loose tighten by hand till you just feel all play been removed do it a few times to ensure its corrrect,
ffit new tab washer and outer nut tighten fully lock tab over inner and outer one at one side the other opposite
refit drive member using one bolt to hold cv splines fully through member as you nip it up
blackhadder
New Member
+1. For the cost, I always use a new hub seal as the old one is probably shot.
Boots Da Rov
Member
I'm doing a similar job on my V8 but I'm having trouble with the inner nut. Nothing I have fits and I am a wee bit concerned about getting it torqued back up correctly. Can anyone advise the correct sized socket. It measures 36-37mm across the flats
GDM - I've recently been ordering parts online from Paddock Spares. . Too early to tell about quality but excellent service so far
Regarding the manual- I sourced one online (free) with a simple Google search. Sorry I can't remember the site
GDM - I've recently been ordering parts online from Paddock Spares. . Too early to tell about quality but excellent service so far
Regarding the manual- I sourced one online (free) with a simple Google search. Sorry I can't remember the site
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
52mm or should be for a disco 1,it isnt torqued up but just adjusted till freeplay is just removed,outer nut just needs to be tight
This one was just over 50mm, as my 50mm socket didn't fit. I managed to do it up with the tips of a large pair of grips, as James says it doesn't have to be too tight.
Was it the RAVE manual you found?
The Famous Four kit included Timken bearings, so should be good quality.
blackhadder
New Member
If you look on fleabay you will almost certainly find a socket or spnner to fit. I did a few years ago. And it should be TIGHT.
DiscoPol
Well-Known Member
you might want to clarify that answer as a really tight inner locknut would screw the bearing in no time at all, think about it the OP is asking as he hasnt done one before and that kind of answer could really cause a feck up for him.
If you dont know, dont answer if you do know then be clear about it
blackhadder
New Member
You are of course correct. However, I think 'tightened with the tips of a large pair of grips' needs a bit of help. Unfortunately I don't know the correct torque setting for the inner locknut, but I am sure you will be able to help.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
there isnt a torque setting read my post on how to
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
There int one.. tighten it until the wheel starts to bind. Then slacken off slightly. Fit lock washer, bend tab over and fit outer nut an tighten it good and tight.. then bend tab washer ouitwards to trap outer nut
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There is in the landriver manual. Depends which Disco tho.
Section 54 page 4.
Section 54 page 4.
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Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
[FONT="]The correct way to adjust wheel bearings and tighten hub nuts[/FONT][FONT="] (taken from the Official Land Rover workshop manual for Disco 1) -
Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.
I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.[/FONT]
Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.
I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.[/FONT]
Boots Da Rov
Member
Many Thanks for the input guys. Sorry for the delay in responding but work had to take priority
I managed to get the nuts off with a set of water pump pliers but one really was quite tight. I will get a proper socket to do it back up properly.On torquing back up my manual says
13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
14. Back off adjusting nut 90 deg. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of 0,010mm
15. Fit a new lock washer
This more or less is the same as Trewey's advice but I note the advice to spin the hub to settle the bearings
On the subject of end float - before undoing the nuts I noticed that the end float on the drive shafts, both sides, to be in the order of 5mm which is a hell of a lot more than the 0.08 -0.25mm specified.
Do I have a problem elsewhere?
GDM - I don't know if the manual I got online is a RAVE or not.
The front page looks like the attached.
Perhaps someone else can tell what it is?
........................................................................................................
Dalkeith, Midlothian
Morag the Monster Disco 1 1995 V8i LPG 2 lift kit, big bore exhaust, bonnet light pod, outrageous colour scheme - currently SORN
Milady Disco 1 1995 V8i ES unmodified she's so much more refined than Morag
"Nessie" Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin GDI 2000 - very capable but currently SORN
I managed to get the nuts off with a set of water pump pliers but one really was quite tight. I will get a proper socket to do it back up properly.On torquing back up my manual says
13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
14. Back off adjusting nut 90 deg. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of 0,010mm
15. Fit a new lock washer
This more or less is the same as Trewey's advice but I note the advice to spin the hub to settle the bearings
On the subject of end float - before undoing the nuts I noticed that the end float on the drive shafts, both sides, to be in the order of 5mm which is a hell of a lot more than the 0.08 -0.25mm specified.
Do I have a problem elsewhere?
GDM - I don't know if the manual I got online is a RAVE or not.
The front page looks like the attached.
Perhaps someone else can tell what it is?
........................................................................................................
Dalkeith, Midlothian
Morag the Monster Disco 1 1995 V8i LPG 2 lift kit, big bore exhaust, bonnet light pod, outrageous colour scheme - currently SORN
Milady Disco 1 1995 V8i ES unmodified she's so much more refined than Morag
"Nessie" Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin GDI 2000 - very capable but currently SORN
Attachments
Someone has lost the shim washers.
Take any left out. Measure the end float then buy the correct shims to get it back into spec.
Although 5mm sounds a hell of a lot.
Manual is rave.
Look at page 501 - front axle. Look for spacing washer. 5mm is miles too much.
Take any left out. Measure the end float then buy the correct shims to get it back into spec.
Although 5mm sounds a hell of a lot
.Manual is rave.
Look at page 501 - front axle. Look for spacing washer. 5mm is miles too much
.
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the wheel bearings are best set without end float/freeplay ,whatever stated elsewhere,taper bearings dont like movement ,cv shims arent critical just remove as much endfloat as possible
Boots Da Rov
Member
Thanks again
