Hi

OK this is a slightly long explanation...

Whilst in France I had to drive about 30 miles to the camp site with collapsed wheel bearings (long story - I won't bore you with the details other than to say read the details of your European break down cover if you have a vehicle modified for off road use).

We managed to fix the wheel bearings at the camp site (Also fixed the clutch hydraulics which also died as soon as I got to the camp site - GRRRRR!!!). I was able to drive home without any further breakdowns. HOWEVER...

After changing the bearings I noticed that I had a bad vibration through the vehicle at 55mph that I never had before the wheel bearings fell apart. It was notably worst when going uphill on a road with adverse camber (left sloping down to the right). I checked the wheels for movement ans there was none. Checked all the obvious stuff like the steering ball joints etc...

I thought it might be the diff as when I fixed the bearings I noticed there is loads of backlash in it (might explain the clonking when you let up the clutch). Its definitely on its last legs. I decided to set about changing it and also to fit new stub axles as mine both got trashed when the inner races welded themselves to the stub axle.

I had an unpleasant surprise when I removed one of the stub axles. The swivel housing has no grease in it to speak off and a quick inspection of the inside of the stub axle showed that the brass bush was absolutely trashed. Fortunately I've got spare stub axles and will also replace the CV to be on the safe side (belt and braces). I am however concerned about the top pinion bearing as I am assuming this will have also been ran dry. Thing is I can't actually feel any play in it and am wondering how I check properly. I have heard that sometimes these can have play in them that can be shimmed out as it can cause weird vibration???

Could use some advice as I've loaned out my workshop manual...

Hi Discopinky, which organisation was it as I go abroad quite a lot and Disco is a tad modified.

discopinky said:

Hi

OK this is a slightly long explanation...

I had an unpleasant surprise when I removed one of the stub axles. The swivel housing has no grease in it to speak off and a quick inspection of the inside of the stub axle showed that the brass bush was absolutely trashed. Fortunately I've got spare stub axles and will also replace the CV to be on the safe side (belt and braces). I am however concerned about the top pinion bearing as I am assuming this will have also been ran dry. Thing is I can't actually feel any play in it and am wondering how I check properly. I have heard that sometimes these can have play in them that can be shimmed out as it can cause weird vibration???

Could use some advice as I've loaned out my workshop manual...

Click to expand...

Hiya Discopinky, the way I test for swivel bearing wear is as follows:

1. Have someone sat in the drivers seat ready,

2. Jack up the front end under the axle to get both front wheels off the ground;

3. Do the following to both front wheels - grab the tyre at 12 & 6 'o clock, get the "someone" to apply the footbrake, check for play by rocking the wheel. If there is play it's likely to be swivel bearing.

4. Now grab the wheel at 3 & 9 'o clock and check again, if there is play this time, it's likely to be wheel bearing.

Yes, you can remove shims (if there are any left?) but to be honest if you have the time it's much better and not expensive to put in new swivel pins, bearings and oil seals.

If you do that, you know it's good for a long while to come.

Cheers
Dave

Slowly said:

Hi Discopinky, which organisation was it as I go abroad quite a lot and Disco is a tad modified.

Click to expand...

Tesco...

Cheers Dave...

I did have noticeable play top and bottom in the wheel on the side that ran dry of lubrication when I checked before I took it apart.

OK so now my next question...

If I replace the bearings do I just fit them without shims and see if there is any play and add shims until no more play or should I not need shims with new bearings etc... ???

discopinky said:

Cheers Dave...

I did have noticeable play top and bottom in the wheel on the side that ran dry of lubrication when I checked before I took it apart.

OK so now my next question...

If I replace the bearings do I just fit them without shims and see if there is any play and add shims until no more play or should I not need shims with new bearings etc... ???

Click to expand...

Hi DP, for a start off, you load all the shims and then progressively take them off.

Let me explain, imagine that the swivel is now fully reassembled save the trackrod and drag link, the idea is that there should be a specified level of friction acting on the rotation of the swivel - the stiffness for want of a better word - and this will affect the steering, suspension and braking performance. So it's quite important to get it somewhere pretty close to spec.

I believe (I didn't do it this way) that you need to use a spring gauge to measure the 'stiffness' - the correct setting is in Haynes. Basically it's done by assembling the unit with the same number and thickness of shims (so to do the job you need to have at least two of each size) that were on there initially. Torque up the fixings to the correct value then measure the stiffness, if it's too stiff put another shim in, if it's too slack take one out (tapered bearings).

Hope that's clear, good luck, it's not that difficult to do, just be methodical. I find it help to lay the components out on cardboard, in the order they came of the vehicle.

Cheers
Dave