AlbertDefender90

AlbertDefender90

Active Member
Hi all,

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my front axle and I am currently replacing the frond stub axle inner bearings, however the Haynes manual I've got says it needs to be done by a land rover specialist. Could anyone tell me why as it doesn't seem to be much and I was thinking of just fitting the new bearings in the same position as the old ones.

Thanks
Albert
 
its just removing old one thats tricky and fitting new without damaging bearing case apart from that simple
 
some have a bush inside, later ones have a needle roller bearings, the later is a bit tricky to fit as the bearing shell is very thin, but doable with abit of care, make sure you get the oil seal round the right way.
 
Ok thanks, I was wondering if there was any special way of doing it other than knocking it in as per usual. Think the Haynes manual wants binned and invest in a proper land rover workshop manual instead.
 
AlbertDefender90 said:
Ok thanks, I was wondering if there was any special way of doing it other than knocking it in as per usual. Think the Haynes manual wants binned and invest in a proper land rover workshop manual instead.
Click to expand...

a press is best or a vice ,needle roller bearings are fragile especially if you whack them in
 
Yeah, i'm used to handling bearings so ill be using the vice. Dont really understand why it is recommended by haynes to send it to a land rover dealer when there is far more complicated stuff in the manual elsewhere. I think this is the fifth occasion where i havnt been sure what to do because the manual tells me to see a dealer. Bit daft really in my opinion.
 
once you have knocked the old bearings & races out use the old race to knock the the new races in,
Before you do so run a grinder straight through 1 side of 1 of the races, the reason you are doing this is so the race will have enough material taken out of it so it wont get stuck in the hub whilst you are knocking the new ones in.
Use a brass drift on this job & a nylon/rubber headed hammer so you don't damage the hub.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Didnt take too long to remove and replace the bearings. Just knocked out the old ones and gently pressed in the new ones.
 
Holy thread revival bat man!!!

I have a question along similar lines - the stub axle on our 110 has the older style I believe brass bush and oil seal. Could anyone point me in the direction of the correct oil seal for my 110 axle? Sorry to be a pain!
 
IIRC it will be part No. RTC3511

Why not call Paddocks or Rimmer Bros, give them the details of your Landy, and they will send you the right ones. ;)
 
Just in case anyone reads this old thread , THERE ARE ALSO 2 type of seals that fit in the front stub , both come in the Bearmach kit ... just to add to the confusion . I put in the wrong seal , so had to remove the needle roller bearing to change the seal , i checked the bearing it felt fine with no apparent damage and was flat on the steel block , no twist in the case and so pressed it back in , ideally i would of used a new one but i didn't have one at the time . Sods law just got another bearing came early , It feels just the same so i hope its fine . will update if its not . Point im making is they are pretty easy to press in and not as fragile as one might think , i did hit the seal to knock it out , so did not actually hit the bearing and took a long time to do it slowly slowly .
 
Last edited:
Just noticed that the other seal in the BEARMACH kit has a larger ID than the other , i fitted the smaller , as it was the corteco seal i ordered separately . hope this helps anyone doing a search .
 
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