Irishrover · Mar 13, 2015

:behindsofa:

'02, TD4, Manual

I am going to replace the front discs, pads and flexy hoses prior to it's MOT next Month.
I am expecting the solid pipe nuts where they fit into the flexy hoses to be rusted in and to have to replace the original steel pipes with copper. Having a quick look, I can see no problem accessing the front R.H. as it is close to the Modulator block. The L.H. one looks as though it will be a bit trickier as no doubt it runs across the rear of the engine and behind the engine bay fuse boxes.
Has anyone replaced the L.H. and can enlighten me as to whereabouts it runs and whether any access problems were encountered.
"Forewarned is forearmed", so they say !!!

Thanks Guys

Jonty1 · Mar 13, 2015

I had to replace my left-hand piping a couple of years back - instead of trying to follow the route of the original piping, I brought the replacement up into the under bonnet area and clipped it across the inner edge of the bonnet slam panel. Much easier to fit, no problems at all

Nodge68 · Mar 13, 2015

Just cut off the original pipe at a convenient place in the engine bay and join onto that. There's no need to go all the way back to the modulator.

gstuart · Mar 14, 2015

Nodge68 said:
Just cut off the original pipe at a convenient place in the engine bay and join onto that. There's no need to go all the way back to the modulator.

there steel pipe though arnt they

know what u mean but i was going to do that for my rear lines

but as they were steel, had to remove them completely from the brake unit to the rear wheels and replaced them in one length in copper

guineafowl21 · Mar 14, 2015

Irishrover said:
:behindsofa:

'02, TD4, Manual

I am going to replace the front discs, pads and flexy hoses prior to it's MOT next Month.
I am expecting the solid pipe nuts where they fit into the flexy hoses to be rusted in and to have to replace the original steel pipes with copper. Having a quick look, I can see no problem accessing the front R.H. as it is close to the Modulator block. The L.H. one looks as though it will be a bit trickier as no doubt it runs across the rear of the engine and behind the engine bay fuse boxes.
Has anyone replaced the L.H. and can enlighten me as to whereabouts it runs and whether any access problems were encountered.
"Forewarned is forearmed", so they say !!!

Thanks Guys

Did it a couple of years ago - tip: replace the whole pipe from modulator to flexi to caliper - so much quicker to just cut the old crap away and replace with new rather than trying to undo stuff. It runs back from the modulator, along the bulkhead and then forwards before diving into the wheelarch. I just left the old pipe in place mostly and cable-tied the new copper to it. You can feed and pull copper like wiring so running the pipe is easy. Good luck.

guineafowl21 · Mar 14, 2015

Another tip: Stop the brake system from dripping while you have it open by cracking your first union nut and then wedging the brake pedal to the floor with a piece of wood against the seat- no more drips. It works much better than cling film under the master cylinder lid.

Irishrover · Mar 14, 2015

Thanks for the replies Guys.
The condition of the steel pipes under the bonnet is excellent and unmarked. I will probably cut and flare it close to where it goes through from the engine bay to the wheel arch and fit a connector. The flaring tool I have will flare the steel fine and I can do it in situ.
I will let you know how it went next week. :clap2:

guineafowl21 · Mar 14, 2015

Irishrover said:
Thanks for the replies Guys.
The condition of the steel pipes under the bonnet is excellent and unmarked. I will probably cut and flare it close to where it goes through from the engine bay to the wheel arch and fit a connector. The flaring tool I have will flare the steel fine and I can do it in situ.
I will let you know how it went next week. :clap2:

... Just make sure your flaring tool is rated for steel, and do proper double flares. Also, remember that copper unions don't need tightening down as hard as steel, rather like compression fittings in plumbing. If you over-tighten then they can fail.

Irishrover

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Jonty1

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Nodge68

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gstuart

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guineafowl21

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guineafowl21

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Irishrover

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guineafowl21

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