[JP]

[JP]

New Member
Hi all…
wonder if anyone could give me any ideas for front recovery points for my Disco..

Currently I use the tow bar to pull people out, but if I get stuck… I don't have any front recovery points…
My steering guard doesn’t have recovery eyes and really don't want to sell this one to get one with recovery eyes..

below is a picture (only one I could find now) so I hope it helps to see how the front end is…
4215_175970850612_727855612_6672053_1029827_n.jpg


Could I use jate-rings?
are they safe enough? I suppose I would have to use a jate ring and then a bow shackle?
or would I have to use 2 jate rings, 2 bow shackles and 1 small strop and then another bow shackle to my main tow rope?

something like this…?
recfront.jpg


or is this a completely stupid way of being recovered?
I think there's too many "links"… but was thinking that would be better to split the pulling force by 2 points instead of just using one?

Help!!!!!!

any better ideas?
cheers!
JP
 
ive used that method before-good as any!
cant you get eyes welded to the steering guard?
 
Ooo I see what you mean Stimmo...
drill on the flat area under the tubular bumper... just on the area that bolts on to the chassi right?

not sure if there's any room behind that to put a swivel recovery point though....
suppose it would be strong enough yeh?
 
Your recovery method is same as I use, 'cept my recovery points are already on the steering guard, see pic.

Using a bridle is good practice as it does spread the load on your chassis/components. However, I have lifting strops that are looped, and can rotate them so they don't get crushed in the same place each time, and double them over rather than through the loop again so the load is spread.

Maybe a tad paranoid but I haven't snapped one yet!
 

Attachments

  • P180609_18.42_[02].jpg
    P180609_18.42_[02].jpg
    237.1 KB · Views: 529
Definatley strong enough, a little work needed to get in there, but i think its possible, just wether you need to cut anything to get there :s i like cutting an welding you see :p ive just got one recovery point on my front on the left side jus a loop wich is pressed between the steering guard on the chassis. then ive got two jjates on back through chassis.
 
right, so my way is not that stupid afterall lol..

So any more views on drilling the flat bit off my bumper? will it be safe? will it be strong?

drilling the bits marked below..

recp3.jpg


and fit 2 of these?

Recovery Swivel Eyes & 3.25T Bow Shackles on eBay, also Other Lifting Tools, Lifting Tools, Industrial Tools, Business, Office Industrial (end time 29-Jun-09 15:57:14 BST)

ee40_1.JPG


EDIT: Stimmo, i posted this at the same time as you. I need to investigate to see how easy would be to do it... thought it would just a case of taking the bumper out, drill 2 holes and put the swivel pins through?
 
Looks like an idea, you will have to check that the metal depth that you are drilling is no greater than the depth from the "T" on the swivel and the circlip...... ;)

P.S. - NICE Disco :)
 
ho my.... this is starting to sound like a massive job.
i bet i know whats going to happen...loads of trouble to take the bumper out as the bolts will be solid...and then find out the bumper plates are too thick for the swivel pins.. lol
 
btw..

I've seen some swivel pins that have a square backing plate.... would I need this?
as with this plate i'll have less room to play because of the bumper thickness..

2e85_1.JPG


for example, if the measurement from the base of the swivel pin to where the circlip goes is 5mm (just a number) and the bumper metal plate thickness is 5mm too, then all is ok, but if I would have to add this square plate, then the swivel wouldnt fit..
 
Hi,
I made a tow ball attachment and put it on the left hand leg.
Rectangular box section with wings attached and the back bit fastened to ( lhd )steering box fixing. further forward,two more wings fasten to a tube that is welded to the chassis.At the front is a tow ball.
 
Ok..
just been out to look at my bumper... looks like I dont even need to take it off as it's not a closed box section where the bumper attaches to the chassi... it's completly open.
Now.... the flat plate we were talking, on the previous page, about drilling is about 5 or 6mm thick... suppose this would be strong enough and I wont need the backing plate like on the pic above?

And here's a couple of pics taken from above and under the bumper...as you can see, completly open...

SDC10872.jpg

SDC10871.jpg
 
i reckon you need it to be at least 4 mm thick. use a decent hole saw, measure the diameter of the swivel mounting groove first. they look the same as my swivels.
GET CUTTING!
 
Only issue I'd have with that is that the plates are at an angle, and so will the swivels and so will the dirction of pull be. What that might do is tilt the swivel so the force is taken on only one half or less of the swivel. What you really want is for the swivels to be mounted horizontally, not pointing down.

Can't see where you'd mount 'ideally' them without additional welding or fabrication ...
 
yeh... see what you mean Paul...
bollocks! better forget about it then.... seemed such a good idea, and would look good too!
 
Was thinking Paul.. even on a normal bumper, if you can't be right in front of the vehicle to be recovered, you'd have to tow it on a slight angle, like on the verge next to it, etc....therefore the movement on the swivel and shackle to help on this situations, meaning that the force angles would be almost the same as if I use the points I was thinking of?

not sure if im explaning myselft right, though...
 
Yeah, I understand what you mean, but check most recovery situations. the art of a good, clean recovery is position and method. In your case if you put the pins on the front plates they will always be at an angle, almost no matter where and what you pull out, or get pulled by.

Had a further thought .. you could make a small right angled bracket bracket up and weld that onto the plates top (next to the bumper) and bottom where the plate bends back to meet the chassis .. 5/6/8mm thick whatever's suitable, drilled to take the pins and bobs your uncle .. ;)

Or ... drill the side plates, cut a tube section insert for welding between the insides of the plates (similar to the chassis bumper holes) and use a Jate ring on each bumper plate. You might need to grind the plates flush to accomodate this, I notice they stick out a tad on the edges, but I think this might be the best solution for your situation as it is now. It'd also save you spending a shed-load on the pins ... ;)
 
I see what you mean Paul, those 2 sound like good ideas..

but! there's always a but!

i really like the idea of the swivel pins on those 2 plates! lol...
just thinking about excuses why wouldnt it work... I do understand what you say about the angle, and appreciate bringing that to my attention... but, I 'm also thinking on other situations on why wouldnt it work, like for example swivel pins on standard bumpers that I believe are less than 6mm thick and therefore less strong and they are used..

would think that it would take quite a lot to rip that 6mm thick plate I have on mine no?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Garage lift options and lift safety
Replies
18
Views
664
Graculus
Graculus
L
XYZ switch and no front electric windows. Help!
Replies
18
Views
940
sierrafery
sierrafery
mercanlandy
How to tow a RRS tdv6 auto
Replies
11
Views
706
mercanlandy
mercanlandy
S
Td5 wheel bearing
Replies
17
Views
1K
KISSMYAURA
KISSMYAURA
O
wheel bearing questions
Replies
4
Views
295
Ollie_Mif
O