Cheaper to run without that bolt.
BTW, I'm really worried about that oil leak from shifter shaft.
It's bigger job just for a small o-ring.
 
Some pictures,
IMG_8381.JPG IMG_8382.JPG
 
Doesn't look bad but I'd not risk my box for an o-ring. Doesn't look that bad a job? Or is it really inaccessible?

As for that prop bolt, pretty sure we just cut it off on an old one and replaced it. Memory might be a bit mixed up though.
 
Yes, I thought so. But with the cross member between can't use a grinder/cutter only a hacksaw blade.
Must try that.
For the the shaft seal, few threads show that I need to remove the valve block too. Major task.
 
HAcksaw blade is what we used. Fiddly with dirt dropping in your eyes but the bolt isn't that tough.

Cannot comment on the seal. Never done it. Might be a shortcut from an old-hand if you're lucky.
 
Yes, I thought so. But with the cross member between can't use a grinder/cutter only a hacksaw blade.
Must try that.
For the the shaft seal, few threads show that I need to remove the valve block too. Major task.
seal fits from outside it would be more difficult to remove with shaft in place but not impossible
 
Yes, hopefully someone with experience will have a simple solution.

Now only saw the Jamesmartin's comment. Have you done it?
 
I have a dental pick in my toolkit and must say it is invaluable.
 
But if u look at RAVE , service repair no 44.15.34, there is a drawing of selector shaft and related parts.
May be one can remove the oil seal but replacing while the shaft in place is doubtful.
 
But if u look at RAVE , service repair no 44.15.34, there is a drawing of selector shaft and related parts.
May be one can remove the oil seal but replacing while the shaft in place is doubtful.
its allways easier to change seals with box in bits but it is std practice to change seals on complete units
 

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