Ell6969

Member
Good morning, my name is Elliot from Nottinghamshire. I have a year 2000 Range Rover P38 2.5 DHSE. Great car but a few issues developing.
I recently started getting a vibrating/rumbling at about 45-60 MPH.This got progressively worse last week to the point i decided to park up and investigate. I am a mechanic by trade & have resolved many problems with the car in the past for example viscous coupling, air bags & compressor front props etc etc.
When i drove on to my gravel drive i noticed the ABS coming on & when turning the front wheels were locking then skidding. I checked the front diff oil level as the viscous coupling had been changed, i probably should have done so before as the garage i got the car from did seem a little carefree. I possibly added the best part of 2 litres of fluid before it started to come out of the level hole & the drain plug was black & smelt burnt. I am guessing that this is the issue, do i take it that if i remove the front prop & i still have the issue with front wheels locking on gravel then it is simply down to the front diff ? Makes sense to me but then other issues i encounter on my P38 which seemed to make sense were caused by something totally random.
Many thanks for any advice.
 
I think the front diff only takes about 2 ltrs of diff oil :eek:, vibration could be UJs or as suspected diff problems, wait for a expert reply on here though not from me :p
 
No oil in diff and a previously seized VCU would tend to suggest the diff is fecked, however it could be a CV joint. You can run without the front prop but it will damage the VCU if you do it for long. Are you sure your VCU is OK?
 
Thanks Nick & Datatek for the quick response. I am taking front prop off in the morning & going for a quick spin, i have a feeling it is the front diff with the lack of oil & drain plug smelling the way it did.
Do you know if taking the front diff off is an easy job or not ? I am guessing that removing the half shafts will be necessary too, any advice would be gratefully received before i tackle the diff.
Thanks Elliot
 
If i take the front prop off & still have the issue then i am guessing diff, if the issue goes away then i will replace the VCU again.
 
To remove diff, prop off,, half shafts out, oil drained, then undo all the nuts around the diff, give a little encouragement to break the seal around the mating surfaces and pull off the diff from axel,, carefull as its big n heavy.
 
Wait until you have had a finger trapped between diff and casing. Weight of finger does not come into the equation. :D:D:D

Support finger with gloves? :p

Don't think I've done any LR job no matter how simple, and come away with no cuts :eek:
 
Support finger with gloves? :p

Don't think I've done any LR job no matter how simple, and come away with no cuts :eek:

Gloves won't help honest. You can't work in gloves anyway to bloody clumsy. No wonder modern mechanics are bloody usless. :D:D
 
Ok so front Prop shaft off, went for a spin. No noises or rumbling any more. Do i take it that the Viscous coupling has failed again or could it still be the front diff rumbling under load ? Wheels did not try to lock during a full circle on full lock. To me this is pointing at the Viscous coupling ?? What do you reckon, any more advice will be appreciated. Thank you Elliot
 
Ok so front Prop shaft off, went for a spin. No noises or rumbling any more. Do i take it that the Viscous coupling has failed again or could it still be the front diff rumbling under load ? Wheels did not try to lock during a full circle on full lock. To me this is pointing at the Viscous coupling ?? What do you reckon, any more advice will be appreciated. Thank you Elliot

Could be that the previous duff VCU has knackered the diff.
 
Arse, I've just had a thought. I suspect the VCU but i cannot do a simple test on the VCU now can I once the front prop is removed ? Thanks
 
Do you mean the one where you raise 1 front wheel then try and turn the other & check for resistance ?
Put a bar across 2 bolts on the flange where the prop fits at the transfer box, gears in neutral and see if you can turn it.
 
I will do in the morning, i guess the same as trying to turn the wheel ? Should i be able to move it slightly with a lot of force ? Thanks
 

Similar threads