02Disco2

02Disco2

Well-Known Member
I nipped out earlier to do a quick brake pad change on the disco and after removing the passenger side calliper I noticed that the lower guide pin was stuck - totally seized!

it went through mot with no issues a month ago and they were “ok” about 2years ago when I replaced the discs but now it’s rock solid.

it’s a job for the weekend now and guessing I’ll have to take the carrier off to attack it properly
Any tips for loosening or removing it?

ive ordered a new set just in case but hoping I can remove it without needing a new carrier.

lastly what grease do people use/recommend for the pin in the carrier?

cheers
 
02Disco2 said:
I nipped out earlier to do a quick brake pad change on the disco and after removing the passenger side calliper I noticed that the lower guide pin was stuck - totally seized!

it went through mot with no issues a month ago and they were “ok” about 2years ago when I replaced the discs but now it’s rock solid.

it’s a job for the weekend now and guessing I’ll have to take the carrier off to attack it properly
Any tips for loosening or removing it?

ive ordered a new set just in case but hoping I can remove it without needing a new carrier.

lastly what grease do people use/recommend for the pin in the carrier?

cheers
Click to expand...
I'd leave the carrier on. Much easier to apply "persuasion" unless you want to take it off find a vice, jam it in there do the job then have to faff about bleeding the brakes etc.:rolleyes:
It happened to me a coupla years ago. Just used normal methods of persuasion plus liberal amounts of freeing off fluid. Once out I took it into the workshop, filed off the rust, smoothed it off with fine grit then greased it properly before putting it back in. Just moved it back and forth until I was sure it was free.
Obvs tis better to get a new one, but this'll get you back on the road.
(By the way, did this on the drive in France where I don't have proper facilities, I was being ironic about the "workshop"!):D:D:D
Best of luck
:):):)
Edit, I'm mad, no need to bleed nothin. But you still have the stable mass of the truck to "persuade" against.
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
I'd leave the carrier on. Much easier to apply "persuasion" unless you want to take it off find a vice, jam it in there do the job then have to faff about bleeding the brakes etc.:rolleyes:
It happened to me a coupla years ago. Just used normal methods of persuasion plus liberal amounts of freeing off fluid. Once out I took it into the workshop, filed off the rust, smoothed it off with fine grit then greased it properly before putting it back in. Just moved it back and forth until I was sure it was free.
Obvs tis better to get a new one, but this'll get you back on the road.
(By the way, did this on the drive in France where I don't have proper facilities, I was being ironic about the "workshop"!):D:D:D
Best of luck
:):):)
Click to expand...

yes, leaving the carrier on may be an idea. Hoping that getting a spanner behind the flat and of the pin and the a few decent whacks may encourage it to move! Fingers crossed
 
02Disco2 said:
yes, leaving the carrier on may be an idea. Hoping that getting a spanner behind the flat and of the pin and the a few decent whacks may encourage it to move! Fingers crossed
Click to expand...
Exactly, use the flats on the end and an adjustable spanner if you can't find an opened the right size, to work the pin back and forth little by little, twisting it, until it really starts to move. Then you can use it, with a smaller spanner, as you say to tap it back and forth. don't worry, it'll come out!
 
Soak it plenty and get some heat on it with a torch
If it’s really seized and you apply more and more pressure this happens
02093BDB-2D36-45BE-A6E3-CCC570A4EC63.jpeg

You are then up s**t street.

If you then jam an EZ out in there and snap that off you are really really ******. Like this
09B7A21A-220D-4381-AB95-5A9BB12D0C95.jpeg


Yet with the encouragement of StanleySteamer and others it eventually got fixed using the same carrier with very few available tools and had good spruce up in there
CDA2CA28-4FFB-423D-B1F3-D46C588FAA35.jpeg


I use lithium grease on calliper pins not coppaslip as it gums up like pic#1 ^^^ Britpart calliper pins are fine cheap as chips too.

If you want to buy some EZ outs I know a guy o_O
Only one missing from the pack!
 
Just to close this one off.
The adjustable spanner and big hammer idea worked and the pin eventually came out!

wire wool and a fine file and lots of grease and we’re back in business- EBC yellowstuff pads fitted and stopping wonderfully!

thanks for all the help/suggestions
 
02Disco2 said:
Just to close this one off.
The adjustable spanner and big hammer idea worked and the pin eventually came out!

wire wool and a fine file and lots of grease and we’re back in business- EBC yellowstuff pads fitted and stopping wonderfully!

thanks for all the help/suggestions
Click to expand...
Good to hear!
Best of luck mate!:):):):)
 
Red rubber grease on slider pins and rubber components. If you’re not comfortable trying to extract the seized slider, take it to someone who has the correct gear.
 
P38-DFX said:
It is, but not everyone has the gear or patience to do little bits like this. By the sounds of it, the seizure was only slight compared to what it could have been.
Click to expand...
It was pretty well in there - but that’s what bug hammers are for isn’t it?!

I have a new set of pins and grease on the way as the seized one, while moving again, isn’t in great shape now.
 
In case this helps anyone else in the future….

putting an adjustable spanner around the guide pin (between carrier and end of pin) and hitting it works but ideally use a medium punch to focus the shock as near to the pin flanges as possible. Just hitting the spanner is less productive as the shock spreads due to the angle of the carrier and other awkward bits of chassis!!
 
02Disco2 said:
In case this helps anyone else in the future….

putting an adjustable spanner around the guide pin (between carrier and end of pin) and hitting it works but ideally use a medium punch to focus the shock as near to the pin flanges as possible. Just hitting the spanner is less productive as the shock spreads due to the angle of the carrier and other awkward bits of chassis!!
Click to expand...
If you look back to the original post I intended to explain that the adjustable ought to be used on the flats on the end of the slider to enable the OP to twist the pin gently to and fro. A combination of that and goodly amounts of freeing off liquid whether that be a combination of ATF and acetone, or some other proprietary liquid.
Just blindly hitting it with a hammer is not necessarily advice I would give to anyone. :rolleyes:
 
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