kyotekid67

kyotekid67

New Member
while stripping the n/s front axle down to replace the swivel seal on my classic R/R, I have almost got it stripped, and have noticed the hub rocks from top to bottom on the swivel pins:confused: do I need to replace any bits while I have it apart ???
 
How far have you got it stripped down? Are the top swivel pin retaining bolts loose? Once you start stripping everything gets loose quickly until it's all back together again.

Was it loose before you started? If not then it's probably ok.

As for replacing anything, while you're down there as it were!, you could replace all the bearings, depends how far you want to go, and how worn anything is. Up to you really! I'd do the swivel bearings if you're doing the seals.

Check the wheel bearings but should be ok. Put it all back together and get the swivel preload set right and all should be fine...
 
blackvoguebeauty said:
How far have you got it stripped down? Are the top swivel pin retaining bolts loose? Once you start stripping everything gets loose quickly until it's all back together again.

Was it loose before you started? If not then it's probably ok.

As for replacing anything, while you're down there as it were!, you could replace all the bearings, depends how far you want to go, and how worn anything is. Up to you really! I'd do the swivel bearings if you're doing the seals.

Check the wheel bearings but should be ok. Put it all back together and get the swivel preload set right and all should be fine...
Click to expand...

I just need to remove the bottom 2 swivel pin bolts to remove the hub, yes the top 2 bolts are loose as i removed these to release the brake pipe bracket, it just seems the bottom pin feels worn/wobbly even though i haven't removed the 2 lower bolts yet.
 
Replace the bearings-they are cheap enough. Get a selection of shims at the same time to adjust the bearing preload.
 
kyotekid67 said:
I just need to remove the bottom 2 swivel pin bolts to remove the hub, yes the top 2 bolts are loose as i removed these to release the brake pipe bracket, it just seems the bottom pin feels worn/wobbly even though i haven't removed the 2 lower bolts yet.
Click to expand...

Ah I see. Yes mate, as soon as you loosen those top bolts the whole lot feels loose, even if the bottom ones are still tight, nothing to worry about. Like Irishrover said, you may as well replace the bearings while you're there. Places like Paddocks etc. sell kits with all the bits you need.

Good luck with it.
 
If the bolts are loosened on one of the spigot brackets this will release the compression on the taper roller bearings and make the chrome ball seem sloppy. I take it you are going to replace the chrome ball (If pitted) and large wiper seal being as you are taking the trouble to strip it down.
 
Irishrover said:
I take it you are going to replace the chrome ball (If pitted) and large wiper seal being as you are taking the trouble to strip it down.
Click to expand...

I am replacing the large wiper seal and retaining plate, as I have an oil leak and it seems to be coming from around that seal.

P.S thanks for all the info/advice guys.:)
 
Did you know that if you don't want to use oil because of the possibility of leaks, that you can get a measured sachet of special grease from both main stealers or independant parts suppliers to put in instead. This mod has been available for a few years now and days of leaking swivels have gone.:):):):)
 
Thanks for the info Irishrover, I will look into getting a sachet to use instead of oil.
Having stripped it down though, its all part of the learning curve knowing what does what ;)
 
When you reassemble the swivel bearings and shims for the bearing preload make sure that you do not have the bearings preloaded too tight. Check with a spring balance if you have, or can borrow one as per the instructions in RAVE. If you do not have the info. to hand, PM me and I will let you have it.
 
I have a Haynes workshop manual which explains how to do the job, and reckons you need about 2-3lbs of preload.
Is that about right??
 
Right, I have come to the bit where I refit the shims, and noticed when I stripped it down that there were no shims on the bottom swivel pin, is this correct, or do I need to fit 1, if so what thickness???
Also I have read in the R/R purchase and restoration guide that preload should be 12lbs :eek: is this correct :confused: :confused: I read/heard elsewhere it should be 2-3lbs.
Can anyone supply me with the correct figure ????
 
No shims on the bottom - it's all done at the top.
Defender should be 8 - 10lb pre-load, according to RAVE. Dunno bout Rangie though.
 
Right.... The shims fit on to the top swivel pin only. There is a joint washer (Paper gasket) fitted to the bottom swivel pin. There is no joint washer on the top swivel pin. Both RAVE and Haynes give the preload as 2.5-3lbs pull (1.16-1.46Kgs). If you intend filling the swivel with oil, I suggest you give the lower swivel pin bolts a dab of either Loctite 242 or Lock & Seal to prevent oil seeping past the threads...we don't want a Rangie that drips oil do we???????????
Any more queries just shout.
 
Irishrover said:
we don't want a Rangie that drips oil do we???????????
Click to expand...

Well of course not :eek: :eek: as if.....


Thanks for the info, I just thought I would double check everything before I reassemble it.
If I use CV grease do I just liberally coat all the moving parts ????

(P.S sorry for all the Q's, but being a newbie I have to learn somehow :eek: )
 
The sachet of grease is the correct amount for one swivel assembly. Smear the chrome ball and taper roller bearings and liberally lash it on to the joint etc. inside the ball ensuring that it's all used. When you drive the car, it will get flung around the moving parts.
 
Bit slow in doing the job, been busy elsewhere.

I have put the swivel ball back onto the front axle, and assembled everything else, but wondered how I can manage to torque up the six bolts holding the ball onto the axle, as there is no room to get a socket and torque wrench onto the bolts.
Any suggestions???
 
kyotekid67 said:
Bit slow in doing the job, been busy elsewhere.

I have put the swivel ball back onto the front axle, and assembled everything else, but wondered how I can manage to torque up the six bolts holding the ball onto the axle, as there is no room to get a socket and torque wrench onto the bolts.
Any suggestions???
Click to expand...
Use a spanner and some thread lock then tighten them up;)
 
Agree with Busterbus, I just use the ring end of a combo spanner and a drop of Lock & Seal on each bolt.
 
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