Sounds like the car is performing well now.

Sounds like the SRS problem may be the "clock spring". These issues are reported quite often on here.

You have to be very careful when working on the airbag that you don't set it off, but I think people move the wires to another unused track on the spring. They will often move the wire to a cruise control track.

As I say, be careful. Disconnect the battery some time before trying anything.

I've not done this myself.
Тhe fact is that I have cruise control, but I don't know if it works, so moving the contact to its track is not an option Yes, I am familiar with the operation of the airbag, thank you!
 
Тhe fact is that I have cruise control, but I don't know if it works, so moving the contact to its track is not an option Yes, I am familiar with the operation of the airbag, thank you!
I did it on one car by using the tracks for the radio volume control as the car was an S model and didn't have that option. The clock spring is the same on all cars.
It was not difficult but did require checking with a multimeter and reconnecting the wires.
Probably easier to replace the clock spring but it you do be very careful to ensure the new clock spring is centred before installing
 
I did it on one car by using the tracks for the radio volume control as the car was an S model and didn't have that option. The clock spring is the same on all cars.
It was not difficult but did require checking with a multimeter and reconnecting the wires.
Probably easier to replace the clock spring but it you do be very careful to ensure the new clock spring is centred before installing
Today I had the opportunity to ride a little. Yesterday, when the wife parked the car - it was not in emergency mode (F4), but started from the third gear. Today, despite the rather chilly weather (-4°C), the car started and drove perfectly when it was still cold. So, I think I'll sign up with another automatic transmission specialist. as for the cruise control, today I tried to activate it and it works. I'll probably check the connection under the driver's seat to start...
 
Took the car from service. so: Replaced engine oil + filter ,oil in the IRD, oil in the rear gear, Replaced antifreeze and brake fluid.Replaced air filter and crankcase gas ventilation filter .Replaced rollers (all three) and both belts. During the replacement of belts, it turned out that the damping pulley is no longer the same. Someone just weld it. Therefore, I quickly went to the store, bought a new pulley (Sasic) and took it to the workshop.

mileage: 274474 km
cost of work 3965.50 UAH (85 £)
cost of spare parts: 6403.00 (£138) electrician 500 (£11)
right door lock 900 (£20)
 
Last edited:
Observation: After replacing the antifreeze, the Freel began to warm up quickly enough and keep the arrow in the middle of the temperature scale, which was not the case with the old antifreeze.
 
Observation: For the fourth day in a row, Freel drives without any complaints. Cold and hot, it switches gears properly (except with small mails. These are solenoids, I will probably replace all 9 later) I think that there was contamination of the hydroblock or solenoid with dirt from frictions, etc. maybe for some valve or channel. Which was able to wash the new oil. Can such an assumption be true? Has anyone ordered solenoids from Ali Express? They are twice (and sometimes even three times) cheaper there than the offers in our stores, and I have doubts that they are not the same.
 
For five days in a row, Frill drove as if nothing had happened. But the moment came when the joy ended - now he is a turtle again.As for the Chinese solenoids - they are all restored, hence the low price. Not interesting. At the opportunity, I bought an incomplete hydroblock with solenoids (used, UAH 1000 / £22). All nine solenoids are working and have normal resistance. Am I worse than a Chinese?))) - I wash the solenoids myself))) If (when) I undertake preventive maintenance, I think it will be easier to collect one of the two.
P.S.disassembled one solenoid for the sake of curiosity. In order for it to jam, it must be very dirty, most likely this is not possible. In that case, winding a new wire is also not difficult (I wound new ignition coils for a boat engine)
IMG_20231227_180759_541.jpg
 
Good day, dear friends. I will probably still be affected by the issue of a non-standard thermostat. but since I have an automatic transmission, the solution will be slightly different from the conventional thermostat from Renault. So: I can buy housings for remote thermostats and I plan to put it in place of the plastic connecting tube (#3 in the picture). I measured this tube from the outside with a caliper - it turned out to be 32 mm. I have a question: is it possible to have a rubber pipe of the same diameter or 34 mm where it is worn? There are both options, 32 and 34 - I don't want to order an unsuitable one. Thank you all for your reply.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240112-141700~2.png
    Screenshot_20240112-141700~2.png
    134.4 KB · Views: 78
  • Screenshot_20240112-142952~2.png
    Screenshot_20240112-142952~2.png
    122.7 KB · Views: 73
Yesterday I received a thermostat from Renault, which I did not expect to receive. And decide, try to install it before ordering the outer thermostat housing. And not for nothing. So, the flange that comes out of the engine is 38 mm, the plastic tube in the middle (it turned out to be a manifold) is 32 mm, the inlet to the radiator is also 32 mm. there is a branch on the plastic tube - an 8 mm tube, which was not visible from above. Since I don't really like the design with the thermostat in the pipe, I will still order the thermostat housing (somewhat later) with inlets of different diameters, inlet 38 mm, outlet 32 mm 135° + outlet (to the thermostat or after?) 8 mm. In that case, I can use the typical silicone nozzles. 32 mm 90° and straight segment 8-10 cm with a diameter of 38 mm.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240114_131954_312.jpg
    IMG_20240114_131954_312.jpg
    144.8 KB · Views: 71
  • Screenshot_20240114-155612~2.png
    Screenshot_20240114-155612~2.png
    247.8 KB · Views: 76
  • Screenshot_20240114-155731~2.png
    Screenshot_20240114-155731~2.png
    180.5 KB · Views: 76
who has a Td4 fuel consumption? i get 18 mpg.... automatic transmission, driving 100% city, but it seems to be too much.
 
who has a Td4 fuel consumption? i get 18 mpg.... automatic transmission, driving 100% city, but it seems to be too much.
US gallon or UK imperial gallon?
A bad thermostat will cause higher fuel consumption. Hundreds here have put the Renault thermostat in the hose without issue. I would do that as I've heard replacing it properly is a nightmare job.
 
Last edited:
US gallon or UK imperial gallon?
A bad thermostat will cause higher fuel consumption. Hundreds here have put the Renault thermostat in the hose without issue. I would do that as I've heard replacing it properly is a nightmare job.
thanks for the replies guys. in fact, now my fuel consumption is 45 liters per 350 km, I saw the miles per gallon in the converter, so it is difficult to answer what this measure is) I recently installed a Renault thermostat. maybe you're right and fuel consumption will improve. I will watch more. And what can affect fuel consumption? the air filter is new. Do the nozzles spray poorly? Then there must have been smoke from the pipe. Worn piston/ not enough compression - then it would not start well.
 
45 litres per 350 km is 7.7km per litre
There are 4.54 litres in an imperial gallon or 3.78 litres in a US gallon.

1 mile is 1.61km so 7.7 / 1.61 = 4.83 miles per litre

4.83 miles x 4.54 litres = 22mpg UK
4.83 miles x 3.78 litres = 18 mpg US

Somebody please check my maths here.
 
45 litres per 350 km is 7.7km per litre
There are 4.54 litres in an imperial gallon or 3.78 litres in a US gallon.

1 mile is 1.61km so 7.7 / 1.61 = 4.83 miles per litre

4.83 miles x 4.54 litres = 22mpg UK
4.83 miles x 3.78 litres = 18 mpg US

Somebody please check my maths here.
45 liters per 350 km it is (45/3.5) 12,86 liter per 100 km
12,86/4.54 = 2.83 Imperial gallon on 100 km
100km/1.61 =62.1 miles
62.1miles /2.83 Imperial gallon= 21.95 miles on 1 Imperial gallon.
 
45 liters per 350 km it is (45/3.5) 12,86 liter per 100 km
12,86/4.54 = 2.83 Imperial gallon on 100 km
100km/1.61 =62.1 miles
62.1miles /2.83 Imperial gallon= 21.95 miles on 1 Imperial gallon.
I've never driven an auto Freelander TD4 so don't know what you should expect in town driving. Maybe @Nodge68 could chip in here as he had one for a good while.
 
I've never driven an auto Freelander TD4 so don't know what you should expect in town driving. Maybe @Nodge68 could chip in here as he had one for a good while.
Mine use to do about 28 MPG, but it's all hills around here. Even on a run it didn't do much more than 33 MPG. It improved a bit with the thermostat mod installed.
Mine still wasn't super efficient, but I think the gearbox didn't help, as it seemed to allow the engine to rev higher than I'd have thought it should.

My FL2 is makes much better use of the fuel it burns. It's more efficient on short journeys, especially when the additional 300kg of vehicle weight is taken into consideration.
 
My TD4 is an auto… 28/30 would be about normal for urban use (that’s with the therm mod)
 

Similar threads