I managed about 1200 miles before changing. You probably only have to do it 2-3 times while the fuel system is cleaned by the veggie oil then as normal after that. You'll start to get the symptoms of a blocked filter, lumpy acceleration, can't get full power etc which will give you a warning that it is due a change. It's good to keep a spare in the car just in case you have a lot of muck in your tank. I needed a tow once cos there was that much slime/muck in my tank it blocked the fuel line from the tank - didn't even gat as far as the filter. This was easy to rectify (about 1 1/2 hours work) and as far as I can tell not very common.

One thing I didn't mention is to keep an eye on your oil level cos if the veggie gets past the pistons into the sump it won't evaporate like diesel does. If the level starts to rise or the oil gets thick and sticky change your oil. I check my oil level and condition weekly as a matter of course anyway. In extreme cases where this has been ignored for a period of time the oil has been know to become almost solid. I have never had a problem with this.

I'm now investigating injection timing and injection pressures to find an optimum for running on veggie oil. I'll keep thisthread posted with anything I find.
 
george99 said:
I have just found the same kind of friend, he can get 20ltr for £16 from Makro.

I have found when going above 80/20 veg/dieso is starting problems on a morning. I've just been playing with a 90/10 to 95/5 mix .
Click to expand...
Ahem. . . .fink i'm reading this correct. . . . .dunt listen to the fool. . . .youll fook yer motor up 50/50 is the max fer er gaylander . . .read my vedgy gaylander bit in ear . . . . . .you've bin warned less yer want glazed pistons and fooked up jectors. . . .turn to bio if you must go over the 50/50 . . . .ah dunt know earthlings eh :( :( :(
 
You're thinking of the TD4 which is completely different, maybe you should read the full post before commenting. The TD4 has two pumps and works at a higher pressure (common rail with piezo injectors). This (much) higher pressure cuases the oil to polymerise in the fuel rail and can cause injector problems and fouling of the pistons and rings. As the XEDI has not got the piezo injectors or common rail fuel system that work at high pressures and has the single distributer, vane operated pump you will not get the polymerisation problems with the oil. Know your stuff before throwing insults about ming :mad:.
 
As i said before I was looking into altering timing/injector pressure. What I've found is that, as the XEDI uses the Bosch VP37 drive by wire pump, the injection timing cannot be altered as it is controlled by the ECU (a remap would probably work but I don't fancy that). As the timing can't be altered the injector pressure should not be altered as an increase in pressure would have the effect of retarding the timing which would make starting very difficult and cause a loss of power and hot exhaust/burn't valves in an extreme case.
 
george99 said:
As i said before I was looking into altering timing/injector pressure. What I've found is that, as the XEDI uses the Bosch VP37 drive by wire pump, the injection timing cannot be altered as it is controlled by the ECU (a remap would probably work but I don't fancy that). As the timing can't be altered the injector pressure should not be altered as an increase in pressure would have the effect of retarding the timing which would make starting very difficult and cause a loss of power and hot exhaust/burn't valves in an extreme case.
Click to expand...

how would increasing the pressure have the effect of retarding the timing?:confused:
 
If you increase the injection pressure there is a slightly longer delay from the plunger in the fuel pump operating and the injector nozzle lifting. As LIQUIDS CAN BE COMPRESSED (trust me on this) and the pipework will flex that little bit more the injector will open later. This may only be a few thou but enough to retard timing very slightly. Increasing pressure also reduces the amount of fuel per injection as the injector snaps shut earlier. I can give a more detailed explanation of how all this works if anyone wishes.
 
After a bit more thought about the timing and injector pressures I now think that it may not effect the XEDI. No 1 injector is fitted with a sensing coil which lets the ECU know when the actual needle lifts to give a precise referance for the point of injection. This will actaully negate the effects of a delay due to injection pressure changes and flexing of the pipework (this design takes this into account) and the retarded timing will be compensated for when the ECU senses the late injection. Also i don't think this injection system allows for a remap.
 
George, how you getting on with this? I meeting a friend at weekend to go to makro to get me some oil to give it a go.. I feel confident after reading your posts at my 98 xedi will handle a 30/70 mix no problem 30 being veg oil.. Just don't want to have problems with starting so if you have fixed your problem can you tell me how or was it due to the higher veg mix and reducing it has sorted it out.. Also is the fuel filter a nice easy swap out, I have tried to find a how to thread but not found one and I don't have a manual either.. I have found a filter on flee bay for a fiver so I can avoid the high garage costs and do it myself in 1k miles or so with a bit of help.. I'm not mechanically minded but willing to learn..
 
Filter is very easy, it's in the rear corner passenger side in the engine bay. Two pipes to disconnect and one nut to release to clamp, don't forget to prime the new filter with the small black 'bulb' type pump next to the filter. Loosen off the vent bolt and keep pumping until all the air is expelled. 30/70 will not cause any problems. I actually had a bit of a poorly battery which wasn't giving me the full cranking speed on startup but a new battery sorted that. As veggie oil has a higher self ignition temperature than diesel it is a bit more difficult to ignite in a cold engine, that's why you need to ensure you have good glow plugs and a good battery above 70/30 veg/dieso in the summer. As the weather gets colder the amount of veggie in the mix will have to be reduced so that you can actually start it.
 
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