D

Dave1727

New Member
It won't start :-(
Been messing on a while now and have more bits in the boot than at the front.
I can't find a thread for my issue but guessing I have an earth fault.... somewhere.
It all started when the engine fell out, well at least broke free from its mountings.. its back in now and ran ok for a while but a month or two later I got this fault which was at first intermittent but now is permanent.
So it just won't start.
Symptoms that I know of when turning key to on:
Temperature gauge rises all the way.
Temperature light comes on.
Cabin fan heater doesn't blow.
When i turn key to start:
Red light goes out for about ½ second then comes back on.
A relay in the dash clicks (possibly behing rev counter)
Nothing else happens.
I've done the obvious, battery is at 12 Volt.
Checked temp sensor and ok (took it out and pet meter across ecu terminals and watched resistance change with hot water on it.
Took fan relay out and shorted across power terminals and fan runs suggesting a control issue.
Other than that just checked all fuses and checked for loose components.
Please help.
 
Hi Nodge,
Its a
FREELANDER SE S/W (2004) 1.8 petrol
Reg BN04EDJ
I just took the fuseboard out from under the bonnet but no sign of anything loose or worn.
 
Hi,

Put a diag tool, to see if there is no fault code ... better to erase codes first if you had disconnected a sensor.

Is the door locks working / windows ... ? The CCU is responsible for managing the instrumentation, the windows ...

Maybe disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes, can help
 
Last edited:
Forgot to say that I have tried to connect to the diagnostic port to my phone via blutooth but it won't connect. When i plug the sender in it just has flashing lights and won't connect
 
I've never heard of an engine falling out, so that's a new one, especially as it's sitting on a chassis support member.

So you've checked the resistance for the CTS at the ECM plug to verify the circuit.

Have you checked all the fuses in the engine bay and internal fuse boxes?

It's sounding like the ECM isn't awake, or there's a data connection error between the ECM and Ipack.
It might be prudent to check the connections at the back of the Ipack are secure, as the Ipack module is the network hub for some data lines on these vehicles.

I think the clue here is the high temperature gauge reading, which is triggered by the Ipack module, if there's no valid temperature data from the ECM.
 
Engine can’t fall for security reason, even if all rubbers parts are not there anymore. The only car I have seen with all engine mount that were all gone, the engine was living is life in the engine bay, the exhaust pipe broke … lot of odd issues … and was a stop and go car …
 
Sorry, it didn't actually fall on tbe floor, all the mountings failed and it was tmrattling around the engind bay, maybe sitting on that chassis support member.
Testament to the build and ruggedness that even like this I managed to drive it slowly for about 500 yards to a village carpark.
 
Nodge68 said:
I've never heard of an engine falling out, so that's a new one, especially as it's sitting on a chassis support member.

So you've checked the resistance for the CTS at the ECM plug to verify the circuit.

Have you checked all the fuses in the engine bay and internal fuse boxes?

It's sounding like the ECM isn't awake, or there's a data connection error between the ECM and Ipack.
It might be prudent to check the connections at the back of the Ipack are secure, as the Ipack module is the network hub for some data lines on these vehicles.

I think the clue here is the high temperature gauge reading, which is triggered by the Ipack module, if there's no valid temperature data from the ECM.
Click to expand...
Thank you Nodge68,
Is the Ipac module at the back of the instrument cluster?
 
Dave1727 said:
Sorry, it didn't actually fall on tbe floor, all the mountings failed and it was tmrattling around the engind bay, maybe sitting on that chassis support member.
Testament to the build and ruggedness that even like this I managed to drive it slowly for about 500 yards to a village carpark.
Click to expand...
Ah, I see. The Freelander is a pretty robust vehicle, so that will have helped.
Dave1727 said:
Thank you Nodge68,
Is the Ipac module at the back of the instrument cluster?
Click to expand...
Yes, it's all part of the Ipack. You could try disconnecting and reconnecting connections on the back.
 
I would have a thorough look for wiring damage. A lot of the loom doesn’t have a lot of play in it so even dropping a couple inches could cause drama with connections, wires etc.
Btw the blower motor in my old petrol used to stop working. When I wiggled the wires going into it it would come back on.
 
Took the Ipac out this morning, connections seemed secure enough but disconnected and reconnected anyway.
Tried and this time the temp gauge still went high, red light came on but the heater fan worked, engine cooling fan worked and it cranked and fired up.
Ran sweetly for maybe 2 seconds then stopped again.
Tried a few times to fire it up and occasionally it sparked up but soon stopped again.
Decided to check fuel supply was ok, and there's plenty of it getting pumped to the rail.
Tried again to start it and back to square one :-(
Temp high, red light on, cooling fan not running, heater fan not running and won't turn over.
Ohh, also been disconnecting the battery when i'm checking stuff, and when i reconnect it the back winow opens fully - is that normal?
 
Dave1727 said:
Took the Ipac out this morning, connections seemed secure enough but disconnected and reconnected anyway.
Tried and this time the temp gauge still went high, red light came on but the heater fan worked, engine cooling fan worked and it cranked and fired up.
Ran sweetly for maybe 2 seconds then stopped again.
Tried a few times to fire it up and occasionally it sparked up but soon stopped again.
Decided to check fuel supply was ok, and there's plenty of it getting pumped to the rail.
Tried again to start it and back to square one :-(
Temp high, red light on, cooling fan not running, heater fan not running and won't turn over.
Ohh, also been disconnecting the battery when i'm checking stuff, and when i reconnect it the back winow opens fully - is that normal?
Click to expand...
Yeah the rear glass always drops down when power is reconnected. To me it sounds like it could be a bad connection. If this happened after engine mounts failing and everything dropping down a bit then lots of things could have been pulled at like the main wiring connectors that goes into the fuse box. Maybe start with a test light and see if everything is getting power with ign on. The wiring diagram in rave will show the power distribution circuits. The things that suddenly all don’t work are going to have some thing in common like a power supply or ground or otherwise.
 
Ross Tait said:
Yeah the rear glass always drops down when power is reconnected. To me it sounds like it could be a bad connection. If this happened after engine mounts failing and everything dropping down a bit then lots of things could have been pulled at like the main wiring connectors that goes into the fuse box. Maybe start with a test light and see if everything is getting power with ign on. The wiring diagram in rave will show the power distribution circuits. The things that suddenly all don’t work are going to have some thing in common like a power supply or ground or otherwise.
Click to expand...
Thank you Ross,
What or whete is rave?
 
Dave1727 said:
Thank you Ross,
What or whete is rave?
Click to expand...
No worries
The rave manual I believe is the factory Land Rover manual. Can be downloaded from online or maybe on here somewhere. Think I got it from here or maybe a link via here years ago. It’s very detailed with everything you need to know including full wiring diagrams. I’ve found it to be immensely useful.
 
Yes, it's normal for the rear window to fully drop when the battery is reconnected. It does this so putting it back up gives it its calibration.
 
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