Hello Guys,

Need some advice, I have a 2004 td4 which wont start.I left it idle for a couple of months as i've been away and came home to a flat battery. Had a similar problem last xmas but managed to jump start it and it has run upto a couple of months ago with no problems. Borrowed a friends CTEK charger which told me that the battery was faulty and needed replacing. Have bought a new battery and swapped it in but after intially sounding the alarm and the dashboard lighting up like a xmas tree i now have nothing, any ideas

Thanks Darren

presume the battery is charged? but check starter nand altinator wires etc..

Hello yes checked everything I could think of, just wondered if there might be something I need to do because of taking the battery out. Battery is fully charged, checked with CTEK charger and a meter. When I connected the new battery the lights flashed and alarm was set off, all of the lights on the dash lit up and there was lots of wirring and clicking sounds but this then stopped and now no lights at all, is there an immobiliser I need to reset or anything I might have missed, my car knowledge ended in the 1980's

thanks

not sure when i swapped mine couple of winters ago it was a quick swap and no issue it is a mk1 tho not a td4 so there could be an immobaliser setting call a dealer im sure theyl tell you..

A straight battery swap is no problem as even a cr*p battery usually still has a few volts - enough to allow you to switch everything off before you disconnect.

Problem here is the car was left presumably with the doors locked and certainly with the immobiliser and the alarm in operation.

Changing the totally flat battery for a good new one simply re-instates the alarm and immobiliser state that was in action when the car was left. This is a good feature which is designed to make life difficult for thieves as simply changing a battery would be an easy way to get an immobilised vehicle going.

That's enough about the problem - now how to fix it.

RTFH!

Your key-fob/remote needs to be re-synchronised to the alarm and immobiliser as well as to the door locks.

Disconnect the battery again as too much time has now passed since you fitted the new one. Reconnect and wait for any light or alarms to stop flashing etc. Then press either button of the remote 5 times in quich succession while standing in front of the car with all doors and the bonnet closed. That re-synchronises the fob.

When you reconnect the battery the rear window goes down - it needs to be re-calibrated.

The radio code will need to be re-entered.

The clock will need to be re-set.

Come back and let us know if the above procedure fixes it and also if you need help with any of the other things.

Good luck.

Singvogel.

Hi
I am having trouble with my 2004 TD4 2.0
It just cut out on the road and had to have it towed home.
I have changed low and high pressure pumps, Had recon injectors, and still wont start.
Any ideas please
Iain

Try starter mother connections as I my freelander 1 they thought it was immobiliser cost 20p to fix

Basic stuff. Does it turn over? Any lights on the dash? Any fault codes?

Why did you change the injectors? That sounds expensive for a stab in the dark.

I don't suppose its the starter motor if it cut out whilst driving.

plugged fuel filter?

Check in tank pump.

Straight cut out is more likely to be pump than filter, I'd have thought - should change filter with pump though.

Having changed the pumps, presumably they are OK, but is fuel getting to the rail? Plugging into a code reader will say if there's fuel pressure problems - or maybe a faulty fuel pressure sensor - but again, I think it would try limping rather than straight cut-out.

My first guesses are the key/ignition barrel or faulty earth.

Needs more info.

I changed injectors a little while ago because it was running rough was running lovely after the change.
Then a couple of weeks later 20 miles from home on M11 she just cut out and died, it turned over and all lights on dash are ok, just wont start. so had someone plug it in I was told by a garage that it showed no fault codes on ecu, so said it was fuel related. so changed the under wheel arch pump for new landrover one. still no joy, so was told it was the high pressure one, changed for landrover one and still no joy. Now they say it could be an ECU problem (...... yes getting costly now with wrong advise So fed up with all this costly advice I gave a little spray of easy just to see if it would start and she started then stopped. so it has to be fuel related right ??? I feel its not getting signal to tell injectors to open.
I have checked with a 6 volt bulb connected to injector wires to see if the 5 volts is present and Im not getting anything showing on bulb as I turn it over. Any advice ???

Thanks for help, getting really fed up with it now.
I had a new pressure sensor fitted a few months ago as it did show last time it had a problem on plug in as rail sensor
No codes showing up now
Yes fuel to rail,
Pump under arch sounds good, so it should at that price. new filter replaced at same time