Ive had/got a similar problem with my facelift 06TD4. When I left home in the morning, the car started fine. Stopped to go into a shop, came out and when I tried to start, absolutely nothing as you describe. Put on headlights to check battery, absolutely fine and no dimming when trying to crank. Tried loads of times, sometimes leaving long periods in between. Gave up and phoned the AA. They were going to take about 40 minutes. Tried a few more times while waiting. When I got a text confirming the AA man was on his way I tried a final time - still nothing.
AA man arrived, asked about problem, sat in drivers seat, turned the key and it worked first time and each subsequent time he tried it!
Having had a similar problem with a VW Type 2 camper about 20yr ago which I eventually traced to be a missing earth lead from body to engine, I checked all the earth leads, removed, cleaned up and refitted. You have to remove the battery tray to access the one from body to engine.
I also removed, checked and cleaned up the spade connection to the solenoid [on top of the starter motor] again it seemed fine and dont think it is the problem.
As all the connections really seemed fine I wasnt convinced this was the source of the problem. As a result of looking up other threads on here < >
and an RAC one<
Freelander Intermitant starter > I convinced myself it was the ignition switch - electrical part.
Purchased one (part no YXB100350) from <
https://www.lrdirect.com/YXB100350-Switch-Ignition/?sfi=YXB100350&keep_https=yes >. Fitted it and the same problem immediately occurred! The only other time this has happened! At least I have now eliminated this switch as the source of the problem.
There are three distinct sources of clicks when you turn the key to start position, when all is well:
(1) a loud click from the solenoid, on top of the starter;
(2) a click from the starter relay, under the bonnet in the fusebox at the near side.
(3) a click from behind the instrument panel somewhere.
When my problem occurs there is absolutely no click at all, so Im sure it is not the solenoid.
I refitted the old ignition switch and the car started fine.
Checking the Haynes manual circuit diagram (Page 12-23: Starting & charging diesel) and tracing the wire from the crank connection on the ignition switch there are a few things you can check:
(1) Fuse 5 (10A) in the passenger compartment fusebox (check with ohmmeter/continuity tester, or by replacement)
(2) Starter relay (R2) in the engine compartment fusebox. There are three identical relays here the yellow boxes, so you can check by replacement e.g. swap the starter motor (SM) relay with the either the fuel pump relay (R1) or main relay (R4). [ See the underside of the fusebox cover for positions]
I still havent resolved the problem so I have made up an emergency kit consisting of a remote starter switch (Ill create a separate thread on this.) and the new ignition switch.
The remote starter switch is just a push to make switch which I can temporarily connect between the battery positive and the solenoid terminal on the starter motor. This should allow me to crank the engine, should the problem occur again.
My conclusion is that it is something to do with the immobiliser system but I would like to know conclusively what the problem is for peace of mind.