Hi guys,

I recently took the wife's freelander for a service, when I went to collect, they told me the water pump was leaking, and there was coolant leak marks evident on the belly plate. I have since found out that there are 2 types of water pump, 1. with fan belt cover locating. 2. the other without. So i need to identify it to find out which type to source.

ok, here's my questions.

1. where is the water pump located exactly.
2. is it better to access underneath with belly plate removed.
3. are any 'special' landy tools required for the removal.
4. is it a fan belt or a timing belt that runs it.
5. ....finally, based on haynes manuals spanners 1-5 for degree of difficulty, what would you rate it as, this is basically as I have only a few spare hours in which to do the job, otherwise the local mechy can have it.

Cheers.

Oh, and before we start with the 'hope you got deep pockets' crap, no, there probably the same as yours. It's just that i've got a fatter wallet. Now behave.

you need to state what engine you have first

Which engine is in the Freelander?

Autodata lists:

6hrs + for the TD4

3hrs for the 1.8

4 1/2 hours for the V6

jamie41275 said:

Which engine is in the Freelander?

Autodata lists:

6hrs + for the TD4

Click to expand...

Fook me! It dint take that long to do the one on me 90 even including waiting for the fookin' part ter be delivered!

Bollox....I can't believe I didn't say which engine. Anyway it's the 1.8 petrol.

DaveHTAFC said:

Bollox....I can't believe I didn't say which engine. Anyway it's the 1.8 petrol.

Click to expand...

you been suckered m8 ...get used to it,knowone buys a 1.8 gaylander ...shame


wafty

Obviously, you have trouble reading my post, i'm quite sure I stated that it's the wife's motor and secondly, why have I been suckered, we've got a leaking water pump, not like it's a fooked engine is it, now if you can't be of any help, then, may I suggest that seeing it's gone 10pm, it must be past your bed time, now off you go!!!!

Damn witty rejoinder, my good fellow... We can do without oiks on the forum. Haynes manual gives three spanners for the task difficulty... On the petrol 1800cc the water pump is driven by the timing belt. (Why?) If you have a modicum of nous I reckon it's a doddly job. I've got to investigate the same on my missus's Freelander, and I'm going to save a few bob by catching the coolant and re-using it, after straining it through the mesh of an old pair of tights... No special tools required, if you can ensure the camshafts and crankshaft don't move during the job.

the water pump is on the front of the engin where the pulley,s are your's is much simpler to do than the td4 that a hell of a job

It depends on how confident you are at lining up the timing marks really, the water pump is under the plastic cover near the crank shaft pully on the drivers side, remove the top part of the plastic cover, then go to the crank shaft pully and turn the crank clockwise until a little notch on the crank shaft pully lines up with a single long line on the plastic cover, ( ignore the smaller lines with tdc etc ) then look at the two cams they should now be lined up the left should say inlet and the right should say exhaust if they dont then turn the crank one full turn clockwise so the bottom mark lines up again, once you have the timing lined up, you should really have a cam locking tool to lock the cams in place, but i never used one, once the timing is lined up take a 10 mm spanner or socket and ratchet and loosen the bolt going through the cam belt tensioner, now depending on the age of your vehicle it will either be a manual or automatic tensior the automatic has a piece of metal coming of it with a hole in it that takes a 8mm allen key, the manual has a slide adjustment with a bolt through it, if its the auto then take a allen key and place in the hole and turn it left, until you get some slack in the cam belt once you have the slack remove the belt from the cams and water pump, then undo the 10mm bolts that hold the water pump and replace, then reassemble, when tensioning the cam belt if its a auto tensioner tighten the through bolt but not fully, then using the allen key in the hole turn it right until the prong on the wire lies in the middle on the forked plate ( you will see what i mean if you look at the tensioner before removal ) once you have correct tension then nip up the through bolt ( if in any doubt go on tube and put a search in of Cam belt change k series by baracus ) as it shows you what you need to do, incidently if you are changing the water pump then i would recommend changing the cambelt and tesioner.

Buy a timing pin for a K series engine, they are like £3.

Then its such a piece of **** job.

I'd replace the timing belt and tensioner whilst i was doing it though , no point doing the job twice.

John Harwood said:

Damn witty rejoinder, my good fellow... We can do without oiks on the forum. .....

Click to expand...

Well the thread is almost three years old. I think he already got the message.

Richard Martin said:

Well the thread is almost three years old. I think he already got the message.

Click to expand...

nearly four ( even wi my limited maffs)

Freelaner said:

nearly four ( even wi my limited maffs)

Click to expand...

I must have lost a year somewhere

Richard Martin said:

I must have lost a year somewhere

Click to expand...

I lost a few did not check the date

There's some video's to help too:

Cam Belt change K Series - YouTube

Please, to replace the water pump at freelander diesel with Rover engine 320 £ is correct?