I would very much appreciate some technical advice concerning my 2007 Freelander Series 2 TD4 SE please.

The vehicle has for several months displayed the engine management light and on test it indicates the turbo to be underpowered. The turbo has been flushed through with the appropriate solution and the latest attempt to fix was a replacement pipe to the turbo as the previous pipe was identified as having a small hole; the enginemanagement light was cancelled and the vehicle drove with better acceleration all round but unfortunately the engine management light came back on again a couple days ago, about four weeks after the fix. There is still the noticeable gain in power to the vehicle following installation of the pipe but I now notice the ingress of minor exhaust fumes coming into the car during idle. Could this suggest there to be another leak in the system following the Turbo pipe installationThat is causing the engine management light to come on?

There is a secondary fault with the vehicle that is becoming a real nuisance. The brakes were serviced on the vehicle a little over five weeks ago and a couple days after theservice I was travelling around 50 mph when suddenly the vehicle began to judder from the rear nearside wheel as if it was going over rumble strips; I pulled into the verge thinking my rear wheel had worked loose and on discovering that it had not, pulled away to realise that the problem hadcompletely gone, and continued to drive perfectly for the rest of the day even at high speed on the dual carriageway.The bearings and ABS were all thoroughly checked andfound to be in good condition. A few days later the same happened again so pulled in to the verge, whereby once again the vehicle pulled away perfectly without further problem. A couple days ago for what is the fourth time exactly the same severe judder occurred yet again and in slowing down this time heard a rotating grinding creak noise from the rear nearside wheel which could suggest bearing failure perhaps? This is all becoming a bit of a nightmare as each time the vehicle is returned to the garage it behaves itself. Your thoughts andsuggestions would be so very welcome please to get to the bottom of these two recurring problems.
Kind regards

It's pretty much impossible to diagnose random faults without actually seeing the vehicle. However as this fault only occurred after the brakes were done. It makes sense to start there. Next time it does it, see how hot the brake is on the side you think is the issue. I keep an infrared thermometer for measuring brake temperature, but an old washing up bottle filled with water will give you a quick if crude indication of how hot a brake is. Simply squirt some water at the brakes, and see if the water wets the disc, or flashes off without wetting the disc. Compare both sides and see if the water test is the same, or very different.

Hi Nodge,

Many thanks for taking the time to offer some advice, I’ll certainly include a fully charged washing up liquid bottle to the vehicle toolkit and will send the results of the test when the judder re-occurs next.

Have a great day

Just a word of caution... The brakes will be quite hot after the vehicles been used so don't touch the disc with yer hand.

Thanks for the caution Hippo, (hopefully that’s the correct name to address you by; yes it would be something that could inadvertently happen without thought at the time.
The problem hasn’t resurfaced since first posting on Landyzone and in a strange way I wish it would so I can run the water test and at least eliminate something else.

Have a great day

Even though the fault hasn't returned, yer could still water splash the discs after a few miles just to see what the difference is between both sides. Or feel the temp of the centre of the alloy wheel where the wheel nuts are. It's something I do occasionally as a check. Best to stop first before doing it.

Thanks a valid point,
I’ll get the wife to hang out the window to squirt the disc, safer that way as I need to keep my eyes on the road.

lol yea i would feel the wheel as this after all is a big heat sink for the brakes, if all is normal there wont be much heat - if any if somethign is amiss you will be able to feel it. Good call on the inferred thermometer, im saving up for a flir....
WRT to fumes in the cabin - check your steering column boot is fitted securely and battery box fitment. I had alot of trouble which eventually was diagnosed as a leaky injector - slight ticking nose when engine running, I initially thought it was a leaky exhaust. another method of finding air leaks in the cabin is to turn you fan on full tilt and walk around outside to see if you can feel or hear air getting out, which reminds me must look at the fitment of our passenger door!!

Many thanks for those tips; anything gratefully appreciated at the moment. The strange thing is the vehicle is driving perfectly and has done since the engine management light first came on. I just have two very frustrating and annoying, intermittent problems.
Fortunately I have a very dear friend who owns a garage and has with everything he does for our cars, bent over backwards to help. He’ll never let me settle up until everything is running perfectly, sometimes up to a month or so after doing the work and always tells me to get straight back to him if the faults return. A good friend indeed.

Thanks again
Have a great day
Hawks