ronseal

ronseal

New Member
Hi, having issues with my freelander 1 TD4...everthing was working fine - rare in itself but drove home the other day and went out the next day and it wont start...
its like its not getting fuel, tries to fire up but nothing happens....i know the car had a new fuel pump a week before i bought it so shouldnt be that, however i opened the bonnet today and had a little route around and found a small filter that's unplugged.
the filter is located on the left side of the engine and is attached to the rear but i cant seem to see where it goes to, it has a directional arrow pointing into the end thats still connected, looks to me to be a small fuel filter but does anyone have any idea where the other end goes.

just to be clear its on the left of the engine as you look from the front at the rear of the engine the directional arrow points towars where the pipe goes which is downwards at the rear of the engine (small filter approximatly 1" round 1 1/2" long) havent got a clue where the other end plugs into but have a feeling that could be the issue.

any help would be much appreciated
 
No - sorry - that's not the problem. That's the turbo solenoid vent filter which is meant to be left open and not connected to anything at all.

What year is the car and how many miles?

Was it a wheel-arch located pump or the under-bonnet one?
 
Hi

it was the one in the wheel arch from what im told

also Its a 2003 with 145000 miles

as always its not going to be something simple is it...
 
How long have you had this car? You say a new fuel-pump was fitted a week before you bought it - so how old is the pump?

Was it a genuine LR pump - or a cheapy questionable quality eBay job?

Non OE pumps can have a very short life.

The genuine ones generally last 80 - 100K.

Could be the previous owner fitted a cheapy before selling it.

Also worth checking is the fuel presssure sensor.

Can you access an OBD reader/scanner? - reading the fault code might save a load of trial replacements.
 
Forgot to ask - are you sure that the wheel-arch pump is actually running when you switch on?

When you turn the key to position 1 (i.e. don't try to start) - you should hear the pump run with a steady whirr for at least 30 seconds maybe up to a minute and a half before it shuts down.
 
Cheers, to be honest i wouldn't be supprised if the previous owner stuck in a cheapy as the pump reads the wrong way i.e. full when empty - empty when full and only had it for two weeks now....i think i bought a lemon to be honest....

ill have a chack tomorrow see what happens.
 
Just went out and checked the rear pump is wining away its happy little tune so isnt that, anyone else have any ideas ??
 
its like its not getting fuel, tries to fire up but nothing happens
Click to expand...

how do you mean .. ?

like.. turns over but no other signs

or .. gives a brief sign of life .. with some white smoke ..

or .. something else ?
 
key truns, you can hear it trying to start as normal but it just wont fire up, like it has no fuel, it has a full tank so definatly not that...

before it was working very well, always started first time then parked it up on the drive next morning it wouldnt start and hasnt done since
 
like it has no fuel
Click to expand...

ok .. am donning thinking cap 'n looking up some info

( my hippo on ramps 'n i'm waiting for some paint to dry )

one thing that will prevent a start is if the camshaft sensor fails
although that usualy effects a hot/warm start as a 'symptom' ..
( ppl spray freezer on it .. or stick it in the fridge .. then retry to start
( i.e. to determine if that's the cause ..
( i guess that sensor could fail altogether .. with 'no-start' from cold

another thing is the 'inertia switch' which cuts the fuel in case of an accident
seem to remember a thread or two about them possibly failing ..
dirty contacts or switch faulty ..
but .. i think that must kill the power to the l.p.pump as well ..
i need to look at the circuit diagram to make sure ..

could be a faulty fuel regulator on the h.p.pump ..
or maybe a faulty fuel rail sensor ( have you checked the contacts on that ? .. btw )
i.e. if the ecu doesn't get a sensor signal that there is fuel enough pressure ..
even though there is .. then it won't start ( i need to double check that :)

~~~~~~~

meanwhile .. if not already seen ..
have a read thru ..

ROVER 75 MGZT ENGINE FAULT FINDING

Maf sensor problems.

this one describes the td4 engine .. ( but not the vnt type turbo )
http://www.rover-club.net/graphics/manuals/16/m47r_diesel.pdf
 
Would put my money on a injector leaking back, do a search on how to test. One way to test, ( I know some will frown on this) is to spray a little easy start into air intake, if it fires and then runs most likely a leaking injector.
 
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