cbfks

Member
Hi guys,

I've recently acquired a Freelander TD4 2004 with 116k miles. Though it drives like a new car for the most part, when I reach higher speeds (i'd say 60mph+) it begins to shake. This is only noticeable when I am at higher speeds and not giving it much acceleration and especially noticeable if I brake from those speeds but then alleviates somewhat when I put the clutch down - when I apply constant acceleration it runs relatively smoothly at any speed. The steering wheel doesn't really shake but the gear stick does.

If anybody could take a shot at what this could be, that would be highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Welcome to the forum, nice motor.

First things to check are these...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

It's unlikely, but could be the VCU and/or tyres causing the problem, especially if you have engine mounts that are on the way out. Is it worse/better when cornering rather than straight?

Worth checking the engine mounts - on drivers side of engine on top of 'wing' and underneath joining bottom of engine/IRD to the cross member. Also the front mount on the rear diff and (less likely as they tend to make noise) the VCU support bearings in the middle of the car underneath.

The checks in the link are quite possibly not what's causing your problem, but will save you plenty of cash if you find a problem.

Others may have more specific ideas.
 
It shouldn't shake at any speed.

Mine is completely vibration free, except for the first 1/2 mile after it's been sitting for a weekend, when there is some very minor vibration. This is down to slight flat spotting of the tyres and, or the VCU fluid settling to the bottom of the casing. Once I've done 1/2 a mile or so, the car drives as smooth as silk.

Check for:

Front drive shafts worn.
Non matching tyres all round.
VCU beginning to stiffen.
Damper on VCU come loose
Lower engine tie bar bush failed. Wheels out of balance.


That'll give you plenty to check for starters.
 
It shouldn't shake at any speed.

Mine is completely vibration free, except for the first 1/2 mile after it's been sitting for a weekend, when there is some very minor vibration. This is down to slight flat spotting of the tyres and, or the VCU fluid settling to the bottom of the casing. Once I've done 1/2 a mile or so, the car drives as smooth as silk.

Check for:

Front drive shafts worn.
Non matching tyres all round.
VCU beginning to stiffen.
Damper on VCU come loose
Lower engine tie bar bush failed. Wheels out of balance.


That'll give you plenty to check for starters.

Thanks for the reply.

I've taken it to a specialist. They've checked everything. It even vibrates with prop off. They thought it was IRD so I've had it replaced but it's still the same vibrations through the gear stick. VCU is alright. I'll give them a call tomorrow but they seem a bit confused as to what it could be. Regards your suggestions the tyres are matching all round and the front drive shafts are ok. Wheels are all balanced.

I have noticed the gear stick shakes much worse when I push it side to side even at lower speeds.

The vibrations seem to be coming from the front (maybe a little more so from front passenger side).
 
Thanks for the reply.

I've taken it to a specialist. They've checked everything. It even vibrates with prop off. They thought it was IRD so I've had it replaced but it's still the same vibrations through the gear stick. VCU is alright. I'll give them a call tomorrow but they seem a bit confused as to what it could be. Regards your suggestions the tyres are matching all round and the front drive shafts are ok. Wheels are all balanced.

I have noticed the gear stick shakes much worse when I push it side to side even at lower speeds.

The vibrations seem to be coming from the front (maybe a little more so from front passenger side).

Sounds like a driveshaft issue, possibly coupled with a worn lower tie bar large bush.
The in board tripod joints get worn and cause the power unit to move as they rotate. If the tie bar bush is soft, then the vibration will be amplified.


I'd seriously doubt it's the IRD, which is why I didn't mention it initially.
 
Sounds like a driveshaft issue, possibly coupled with a worn lower tie bar large bush.
The in board tripod joints get worn and cause the power unit to move as they rotate. If the tie bar bush is soft, then the vibration will be amplified.


I'd seriously doubt it's the IRD, which is why I didn't mention it initially.

Alright, thanks for the info. I think the garage was trying to get money from me by replacing the IRD. They themselves told me the oil was clean so one would think they should have known it wasn't that. I'm going to ask them to put my original IRD back in and get a refund because it's currently much worse off now than it was this morning. I will also mention the driveshaft and see what they come back with. I was initially trusting their opinion on the matter but because I'm young (this is my first car) I think they're taking advantage.

I just don't think the judder in my case is an issue with transmission because it is present even at coasting and I would have thought a specialist would pick that up. Truly quite angry but I appreciate your advice. Just hope they haven't damaged anything purposely - they were going to look into the gearbox next...no chance. :rolleyes:
 
Yeh it would have been highly unlikely to be the IRD, and as the oil was clean I'm not sure how it could have been the IRD..

Its is much more likely, as Nodge says, to be a drive shaft.

If it was a petrol I'd question whether its a misfire, but as its not and you say it happens when braking, it is unlikely to be the engine.

Be careful when buying drive shafts. Cheap ones have proven to be worse than the ones they are replacing, and those that aren't don't have a record of lasting very long. If you're not convinced its the drive shaft and you want to buy cheap, I'd be inclined to go to a breakers for one - in the knowledge that if it does fix the fault, I might need to spend good money on a new OEM one at a later date. I might ask the opinions of others on here first though!
 
Yeh it would have been highly unlikely to be the IRD, and as the oil was clean I'm not sure how it could have been the IRD..

Its is much more likely, as Nodge says, to be a drive shaft.

If it was a petrol I'd question whether its a misfire, but as its not and you say it happens when braking, it is unlikely to be the engine.

Be careful when buying drive shafts. Cheap ones have proven to be worse than the ones they are replacing, and those that aren't don't have a record of lasting very long. If you're not convinced its the drive shaft and you want to buy cheap, I'd be inclined to go to a breakers for one - in the knowledge that if it does fix the fault, I might need to spend good money on a new OEM one at a later date. I might ask the opinions of others on here first though!

Thanks for your words. It's very helpful to have an unbiased opinion - you can't trust these garages. A drive shaft issue would make much more sense than a transmission issue.

I'd appreciate if anybody else has any other ideas.
 
Guys, just an update for anybody with a similar issue in future.

Had all wheels off, moved front to back, reseated everything and all was ok. No issue with driveshafts or the transmission.

I bought this landy from a private seller and he'd just had new tyres put on so I suspect somebody hadn't seated something back correctly.

Thanks all for you help!
 
he'd just had new tyres put on so I suspect somebody hadn't seated something back correctly

Wouldn't the garage that changed the IRD, have removed the wheels when doing there checks? Sounds like they're just after your money to me.

Do you have a bent wheel that's not running true and so needs replacing.
 
Wouldn't the garage that changed the IRD, have removed the wheels? Do you have a bent wheel that's not running true and so needs replacing.

Yes they did but that made it worse. I then took it back and they've played about with it again and it's better. I suspect they are after my money - they surely should have checked the wheels before changing the IRD. I've paid them to replace a part unnecessarily and I told them that but I've left it in because my old IRD was on it's way and they showed me that.

One of my tyres is splitting and needs replacing but it's on the rear now and there's no juddering whatsoever.
 
I've left it in because my old IRD was on it's way and they showed me that

How do you know what a good or bad IRD looks like? Or even if the IRD that was bad, was even yours?

You said earlier in the thread that the IRD oil was clean. This suggests to me that the IRD was perfectly serviceable and they're just trying to pull a fast one.

The only plus is you've got a new IRD and the vibration has stopped, eventually.
 
How do you know what a good or bad IRD looks like? Or even if the IRD that was bad, was even yours?

You said earlier in the thread that the IRD oil was clean. This suggests to me that the IRD was perfectly serviceable and they're just trying to pull a fast one.

The only plus is you've got a new IRD and the vibration has stopped, eventually.

I'm not sure what a bad IRD looks like. They showed me the bearings were sticking and they didn't sound healthy (not that I know what a healthy IRD bearing sounds like). Would you suggest having my old one put back in?
 
The new IRD should last the life of the car. The old one could have been mistreated before you got it. So now it's in and if you can afford the replacement cost, I'd be inclined to keep it in.
If your old one is needed in part ex, then the garage will send it away. If they got you an outright replacement, then I'd ask for the old one back. Then you can have it checked by someone who knows what they're looking at, and keep it as a spare, maybe replacing the bearings first.

If you're old one is serviceable, then it does have a value as a core unit ready for rebuild.
 
Yeh, they're not tiny things, but well worth hoarding - just in case - especially if the (crown & pinion) gears are in good nick.
 
Thanks guys. Looks like i'll have to find a different garage to use in future. Shame because they've got the best reputation in the area as a landy specialist. Can't trust anyone nowadays.
 

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