T

thejazzlord

New Member
Hi, as the title suggests - door jammed. Happened a few weeks ago, initially the rear window and the wiper mechanism also stopped but they came back. I'm now left with a jammed rear door. When I try to open the rear door with the handle I can here the micro-switch click but not the 'whirr' of what I assume is the solenoid so I am guessing the mechanism is receiving no power.

I've looked at a lot of threads, tried disconnecting the battery, I've also removed the rear 3/4 panel to get to the relays and even the rear door trim (hard).

My questions are these :-

1. Any tips on what the problem is - my guess is the wires are chaffed in the door loom but I can't open the rear door to check?

2. CAn anyone tell me how to manually open the rear door? The back trim is off but I can't see how to operate the mechanism manually - apparently from other threads it can be done.


Regards

Mark
Sunny Sydney
 
Hi, I recently had a rear door stripped out to lubricate window cables etc.

I removed the solenoid and latch. The solenoid operates the latch via a 3/16in metal rod about 3in long. Access is tight but you may be able to get a stiff wire loop/hook round the solenoid and try to move the rod up and down.

Alternately can you feed the solenoid with an independent live and earth supply into the wiring going to the solenoid (disconnect car battery first as these circuits are permanent live and route back through the CCU circuitry)

The basic problem from what you describe is almost certainly chafed/broken wires between the door and the body. If all else failed I would carefully chop out each suspect wire in turn(using colour codes) and link across with fresh cable spliced in until the door could be opened and then repair the harness properly.

Good luck.D..
 
Mate, thanks - will give it a try, I wasn't sure how the mechanism worked but that gives me a good pointer. A previous thread mentioned using a tent peg and I assume what you describe is what they did. I still can't quite work out where it is, but will poke about tomorrow, certain it will be obvious when I am in there.

I'd also thought about sticking 12v onto the solenoid, glad you suggested disconnecting the CCU, I wouldn't have done that....
 
Dann, got the door open - trick is to take the torx screws off the cover of the solenoid, which gives enough access to put a tent peg up to hook around the arm that connects the solenoid rod to the door mechanism. A quick tug and it comes down easily.

Proud that I managed that...but the wires between the door and body seem to be in good order....should it be obvious if the wires are chaffed?

I guess the next steps would be to test the switch on the door is working and test the door solenoid itself is working?

Regards

Mark
 
Great job mark, now you've cracked the door open I guess you need a multimeter or testlamp to check if there are live and earth signals to the solenoid when it's told to lock/unlock via either door handle micro switch/ remote c/l plip or dashboard switch. If it's getting the signals and not operating then it's either siezed or needs replacing. If it's not getting the signals then you need to check for internal cable breaks maybe at the door/body gap (the constant flexing as the door is opened/closed could cause an internal cable break)

Beyond all that you can check microswitches/relays etc

At least you have sunshine to work in. Good luck. D..
 
Dann, your guidance is very much appreciated. Had the multimeter out, and when nothing is happening there is no voltage on the solenoid connectors (connectors at the base), when I lock / unlock via the remote there is a voltage pulse on the connection. So I think that is correct? I'm assuming the pulses are the opposite way around, moving the bolt up and down. etc. (but of course the solenoid doesn't activate). I've also checked both wires from the base of the solenoid into the body for continuity and they are ok so I don't think we are dealing with chaffed wires (no sign of this problem)

When I press the handle on the tailgate to open the door there is no pulse on the solenoid, which is odd - I would expect it to do the same.As I remember it when I used the handle on the back the window should drop a little also, which doesn't happen now either.

So, I'm a bit lost. My guess is the actuator unit has had it - there are a more wires up the top of it so its a lot more complicated thing than just a solenoid, so maybe I have to replace the whole lot.

Any further advice? I might shop around for a second hand actuator unit although I'm sure I'd have to take had the door apart to fit it...


btw its winter here so not so hot, maxed out at 18c today ( I know, not bad for winter, better than winter in Chesterfield, UK- the home town)

Mark
 
Ok Mark, I take it you're testing with the unit off the door? the unit also has a sensor which tells the ccu whether the door is latched open or closed, the ccu then moves the window up or down a bit depending on what's happening.You can simulate this by levering the latch upwards which happens automatically as the door is closed. This should cause the solenoid to buzz and the window should lift slightly.

Have a look on the Q&As section for info about downloading 'RAVE' as this has all the info and wiring diagrams.

While you're inside the door anyway squirt some lube on the window lift cables before they rust and snap.

Cheers.D..
 
The door opening is controlled by the car computer (CCU), it is not directly controlled by any buttons. The window has to be lowered to clear the top shield before the door car be allowed to move. You did not say if this was happening. If not it may be the window lowering mechanism that is at fault, rather than the door lock, either the window has gone out of adjustment, or the motor is at fault. There are plenty of threads on resetting the window.

There is also a thread on testing the functionality of the CCU and its dependent circuits, search for 'Freelander - everything you need to know' which sets out the checking sequence.
 
thejazzlord said:
Dann, your guidance is very much appreciated. Had the multimeter out, and when nothing is happening there is no voltage on the solenoid connectors (connectors at the base), when I lock / unlock via the remote there is a voltage pulse on the connection. So I think that is correct? I'm assuming the pulses are the opposite way around, moving the bolt up and down. etc. (but of course the solenoid doesn't activate). I've also checked both wires from the base of the solenoid into the body for continuity and they are ok so I don't think we are dealing with chaffed wires (no sign of this problem)

When I press the handle on the tailgate to open the door there is no pulse on the solenoid, which is odd - I would expect it to do the same.As I remember it when I used the handle on the back the window should drop a little also, which doesn't happen now either.

So, I'm a bit lost. My guess is the actuator unit has had it - there are a more wires up the top of it so its a lot more complicated thing than just a solenoid, so maybe I have to replace the whole lot.

Any further advice? I might shop around for a second hand actuator unit although I'm sure I'd have to take had the door apart to fit it...


btw its winter here so not so hot, maxed out at 18c today ( I know, not bad for winter, better than winter in Chesterfield, UK- the home town)

Mark
Click to expand...
Hey Mark, been studying the diagrams, the solenoid has a permanent earth to one pin and the CCU sends a live to the other pin whenever it gets a signal from the door handle switch (polarity is not changed for lock/unlock) the switch/sensor on the solenoid unit tells the CCU whether the door has just been closed (it moves window up a bit) or if the handle has been pressed to open the door (it moves the window down a bit)

Still with me?

The deciding factor in all this is the position of the lock latch.

In summary mate I think your solenoid is either seized or faulty.

Now I'm going for a beer. Good luck.D..
 
Vic/Dann, the window isn't lowering when I use the rear tailgate handle however the window goes up and down fine otherwise - so I don't think the window motor is at fault (I've also already gone through the recalibration procedure).

However, if the signal to lower the window slightly when the handle is used comes from a sensor on the solenoid unit then I agree, the solenoid unit looks to be the likely candidate.

I'll go through the CCU checking sequence to see if this confirms this.

Thanks again! Hope the beer was good.

Mark
 
Hi Mark,
Just a thought: If you are pressing the door handle whilst the door is open the window won't move. Use a screwdriver to rotate the doorlatch upwards this should fool the CCU into thinking the door is closed and the window will lift slightly. If you now press the doorhandle the latch should drop back down and the window lowers slightly. I've tried this on two TD4s. By the way, the two relays over the rear wheelarch are for the window motor only, nothing to do with locks.

Cheers.D..
 
Thanks mate, I got a copy of RAVE and worked out the relays are for the windows. I initially tried the door from the inside with the glass down. I tried the test you suggested - nothing, so I am going to replace the solenoid at the weekend, I can't find one locally apart from the dealers but there are a few on ebay in the UK so will get one of those I think.

You know a LOT about freelanders ! Do you work with them?
 
thejazzlord said:
Thanks mate, I got a copy of RAVE and worked out the relays are for the windows. I initially tried the door from the inside with the glass down. I tried the test you suggested - nothing, so I am going to replace the solenoid at the weekend, I can't find one locally apart from the dealers but there are a few on ebay in the UK so will get one of those I think.

You know a LOT about freelanders ! Do you work with them?
Click to expand...
Hi, Ebay is a good source for parts and hopefully that'll sort it. We use TD4 commercials in the business, they're a good workhorse and pull like a train. We've had to learn to maintain them to avoid dealer costs which would make the vehicles non-viable.
As it's quiet here today I'm going to try and devise a manual tail door release using bicycle brake cable from the solenoid rod to an internal handle.
Cheers & beers.D..
 
Well, that explains it then! Do you want another one? I'll do you a cheap price with shipping thrown in, only 120,000km on the clock!

I love the car, but in the last 12 month I've had to replace a fuel pump, viscous coupling, 4 new tyres, fix an oil leak, stereos bust, two window regulators have failed....and now this. It was brilliant for three years - no problems.

I think it has to go and be replaced by something newer.....
 
Dann - I'm trying to sue the CCU test sequence to test inputs and outputs etc, but I can't get the damn thing to work. I've just spent 25 mins going over and over the sequence but can't get it working.

1. Turn the ignition 'on'
2. Press and hold the rear fog switch 'on'
3. Turn the ignition 'off'
4. Turn the ignition 'on'
5. Release rear fog switch within four seconds of ignition 'on'.

Does ignition 'on' - mean just to position 2, or start the engine?
Does fog switch 'on' mean it actually has to be on? If so the headlights also have to be on?

Either my CCU is damaged, or I am very stoopid, I'm going for the latter as its cheaper, any tips?
 
You're doing all the right things. Ign 'on' means dash lights on engine not running.
check the following fuses all related to CCU:

Passenger comp Fbox:
F3 15a
f8 15a
f16 10a
f22 10a


I'll bet you'll miss it when it's gone...

Yes they're 90% pleasure and 10% pain (a bit like women) we get ours at auction and they're cheap as chips re the financial strife here.

Cheers and beers Mark.D..
 
Last edited:
Mate, checked those fuses, no problems. In fact I sat there and checked every fuse! Tedious with that little red thing...all are OK.

Any other suggestions? I do live near the Ocean and there are some cliffs...
 
thejazzlord said:
Mate, checked those fuses, no problems. In fact I sat there and checked every fuse! Tedious with that little red thing...all are OK.

Any other suggestions? I do live near the Ocean and there are some cliffs...
Click to expand...

As the fog lamp switch triggers this test I would first make sure the fog lamp works? (maybe you don't get fog in Oz?) Then I would check some of the other CCU functions: Interior light delay, rear wiper operation when reverse selected etc If other CCU functions are non-functional I would carefully remove CCU multiplug (after disconnecting battery and ensuring the car keys are not in the car in case the system locks me out) and check for any corrosion on the connectors, maybe a spray with contact cleaner.

Put it all back together and re-sync the remote plip etc. D..
 
Well, its got a flat tyre now, so I had to sort that first, except the bolt on the bike rack on the rear tyre had seized, so I spend a hour getting that off to get to the spare, had to destroy the bike rack. Finally got round to testing the other stuff, the fog lamps are fine (yes we do get that here!) and in interior lamps delay is fine etc. haven't got to the multiplugs yet as its getting late and not sure I am up for a 1am stint with with face in the footwell and legs on the dash....

So, may have a dodgy CCU, but don't really know, may have a dodgy door solenoid. Further investigation may have to wait until the weekend or until I've had a few beers...
 
Sounds like you're having a great time!

Before dismantling the car any further, measure the resistance of the door solenoid coil across the two connector pins. If it is open circuit it's almost certainly u/s. Obtain another solenoid and take it from there.

Cheers.D..
 
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