(at the risk of thread jacking) Fantastic pictures and certainly an inspiration. If only I can get some time and money to spend on just a few of those mods.
How much difference has the sound proofing made? I've noticed that whenever I take off a panel in the hippo there is always metal visible, whereas any newer Land Rover is just packed with all sorts of deadening materials.
 
Oh wow... very nice!
OK, we need to talk ;)

Looks as though some of the routes I've gone down/am planning on going down, you're already there - Re-trim, most of the engine mods etc...

What was the reason for changing the fuel injectors to the "Auto" type?

Thanks for your input :)

Rob
 
Auto injectors give lightly more fuel for auto box, so if you make a remap and other mods. Results are better, and engine is more stable (corrections, smooth running ect)
 
Rob,

I've been following this thread with a lot of interest, as I'm in the market for a Land Rover for the weekend.

Well, it turns out today is the day, and I've just paid a deposit on a vehicle I pick up on Sunday!

A lot of the things you have done and/or planning on doing, are precisely the same as some of the ideas I already have in mind. The bonnet vent thing was not part of the plan, but I'm going to do so now I've seen yours :cool:

A couple of things though, that I'd like to do almost straight away, and if you could help (I'm being a bit lazy!):

I've scanned through the thread, and I can't see the post relating to what was done about sound deadening the panels - I saw the video, but I don't know how that result was achieved?

Can you link me to those LED headlight bulbs? I'm not bothered about the full-blown job as you're doing, just wanting better bulbs.

Are all EGR bypass valves created equally, or are some better than others?

Can you post a picture of the aluminium intercooler pipe, as silicone hoses will be one of the first jobs for me and I may as well kill two birds with one stone.

It's not an urgent one, but I'm looking forward to seeing details of the bonnet vents! I'm debating Defender wing top vents. Would these be an option do you think?

Sorry for the wall of text, but I'm like a kid at Christmas and now I've got a vehicle, I can crack on!
 
Auto injectors give lightly more fuel for auto box, so if you make a remap and other mods. Results are better, and engine is more stable (corrections, smooth running ect)

Currently I have plenty of power and can also produce lots of black smoke if I turn up my Synergy, so I'd guess my injectors are still up to the job and there isn't any point in upgrading to the Auto injectors... ?
 
I've scanned through the thread, and I can't see the post relating to what was done about sound deadening the panels - I saw the video, but I don't know how that result was achieved?

Can you link me to those LED headlight bulbs? I'm not bothered about the full-blown job as you're doing, just wanting better bulbs.

Are all EGR bypass valves created equally, or are some better than others?

It's not an urgent one, but I'm looking forward to seeing details of the bonnet vents! I'm debating Defender wing top vents. Would these be an option do you think?

Hahaha you are like a kid at Christmas! ;)

The sound deadening wasn't actually mine, it was one of the other chaps... if you have a flick back through the thread you will find what was posted.

I'm not sure if LED bulbs in a standard headlight is actually a good idea anymore...
I'm still running mine whilst my projectors are a work-in-progress, however the beam really isn't controlled well, meaning I get flashed quite a bit by oncoming cars (and not in a good way!)

The EGR bypass is a really simple bit of kit.
Some literally replace the valve and block the exhaust gas supply from the manifold right at the valve itself.
I don't see the point in keeping any of that, other than it makes the swap much easier!
I bought one which came with a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold, meaning I could remove all trace of the EGR system.
Mine also had a small outlet on the "body" of the EGR replacement, so I could run my boost gauge from here.

Regarding the bonnet vents - you could fit anything you like, just depends on how much work you're willing to put in ;)
The RR Sport vents look great but required a fair bit of cutting of both skins on the bonnet and due to their depth they come close to some of the components in the bay (Battery, Fuse/Relay box, Power Steering Reservoir...).
A shallow vent or vent cover like a Defender wing top would probably be much easier to fit!

Hope that helps a bit. Will be clearer once I get some more pics and info. on here :)

Rob
 
Cheers Rob. I've been doing more research since asking you this question. Re. lights - I think I just may stick with an upgrade H7 bulb - a set of Crystal Vision or similar.

I've already ordered the PCV upgrade part and I ordered an EGR from eBay from a company called 'EGR DELETE' I saw the part that accepts a boost gauge, but just went with the standard one as I've no intention of fitting a boost gauge...yet.

I like the Defender wing top vents as they are tough and well made - I put them in my old Defender and they were great. I think they were from a company called KVX or something? I'll probably stick with these.

Where did you get your hose set from? I'm looking at DPH hoses and I see they do aluminium tubing too which I may as well do at the same time...but I don't actually know which part I need to change...and how. Any chance of a pic that I can use as a clue?!

Martin
 
Another dark wet night meant I had some time to play around with my spare headlight.

I'll bring you up to speed so you know where I am with my lighting changes so far...

I think lights make a huge difference to a cars appearance. Not only the style of the lamp and it's internal details but also the lighting format and colour output etc.

I started by fitting some LED H7 bulbs to my dipped beam -

View attachment 118522

(LED Left, Nightbreaker Halogen Right)

The colour is great and the output is amazing, however the beam control isn't fantastic, leading to the occasional flash from oncoming cars...
(Also, my main beam bulb was now insignificant in comparison, so naturally I also upgraded these to an LED bulb).

Looking to cars which are newer than mine, it's apparent that most OEM's are moving to "Projectors" for their headlights, giving much better beam control.
Some still use a Halogen bulb, but most are used with a Xenon. The Xenon gives out an amazingly bright crisp beam pattern.

Freelander 2 Headlamp -

View attachment 118525

You can buy retrofit Xenon kits online, however when fitted into a headlamp designed for a Halogen bulb you basically lose all beam pattern... The same as my LED... Not ideal.

The solution - A Retrofit Projector Kit -

View attachment 118523

These Projectors can be fitted to any headlight which uses an H4 or H7 bulb.
The projectors are then fitted with an H1 Xenon or Halogen bulb (there is no mention of LED).
They are classed as "Bi-Xenon", meaning they are used for Dipped beam but also have a main beam function, via means of an actuated flap.

My friend had a cheap-o projector kicking about, so we fitted an LED bulb to see if it was viable to run an LED Projector set-up.
There was some light bleed, given the poor design of the projector internals, however the beam pattern was encouraging -

View attachment 118524

After searching through the various projector "shrouds" available (the chrome cover trim for the projector), trying to pick one I thought would suit the lamp, I chose a design and ordered myself a set.

They arrived yesterday so I decided to crack on!

View attachment 118526

Lens removed and Projector fitted -

View attachment 118527

The shroud needed a fair bit of trimming, as the main beam section of the lamp intrudes into the reflector bowl -

View attachment 118528

A bit more fettling with a dremel and it was a perfect fit -

View attachment 118529 View attachment 118530

Really pleased with the fit and look of the projector.
Next up - Lighting functions and wiring...

Rob

I've just ordered myself some of these.
Screenshot_20170310-163430.jpg


They say they are for H1 and H7 bulbs. So hopefully I'll find a suitable LED to fit it.
 
Yep those were the ones!
Hmm... interesting... I noticed the clear topcoat on mine was ever so slightly yellowed, but only if you look closely. I've had them about a month now so will see how they go, but they seem fairly sturdy for now.

A good friend of mine works at a company who makes the "domed" stickers/badges, so if they start to fall apart I will be chatting him up to make me some new ones! ;)

Rob

I have just bought some of them as replacements, they turned up today.
 
Currently I have plenty of power and can also produce lots of black smoke if I turn up my Synergy, so I'd guess my injectors are still up to the job and there isn't any point in upgrading to the Auto injectors... ?

Yep, because yours probably leaking.
 
Hi, got some another inspiration for your oem+ :D .

Tested just before turbo, exhaust and fuel pump replace ;) 153 Hp/350 Nm . Next measure after fit new toys.

2017-04-03 11.02.17-Edit.jpg
 
It's been a little while... Apologies!

I hope everyone's keeping well and your A/C is cooool :)
(Except for today - today I hope you remembered umbrellas!)

So I've had a few small but costly issues with the Freelander, which slowed some progress -

I completely lost clutch disengagement. I was also getting clutch slip/flare up around 2500rpm.
I decided to go down the Single Mass Flywheel route and Heavy Duty Clutch Plate and also replace all hydraulics.
Is the "SMF" conversion a good idea... Many mixed reviews online...
Having driven a few thousand miles with this set-up, my thoughts on this are that it's cheaper to replace and also with increased power/torque I don't worry so much about failure of the flywheel/clutch.
The only downside is that I have lost some drivability, In that it does feel a bit more "Agricultural" when accelerating through the 1200-1800rpm range. (Slightly lighter foot at lower revs and no issues at all).

I then had the Drivers Door Latch fail. Well the actuator failed, I'd already botched it once...
So I fitted a new unit and whilst I was there I removed the manual door lock cylinder from the exterior handle and made a Carbon blank. (I've also removed both LH & RH interior lock knobs).

Handle.jpg

I'd also been having handbrake problems, not holding and snagging sometimes after release.
The drums were visibly very corroded so I fitted new drums and shoes and gave the cylinders a good check/clean up.
Safe to say the RH drum didn't want to come off... So I "Helped" it off with my angle grinder ;)

Drum & Shoes.JPG Drum Cut-off.JPG

I'd also not been overly impressed with the performance of my Brembo front brake pads, so I replaced them with some EBC GreenStuff pads. Much better!
I'd painted the new drums satin black before fitting, to compliment my refurbished wheels :)

Rear Wheel New Drum.JPG Front Wheel.JPG

So with the "Maintenance" done, I could get back to the more enjoyable tasks!

Rob
 
Back to the good stuff!

So I've managed to tick some of the Interior items from my list :D
  • Re-trimmed Steering Wheel
  • Replaced Gear Gaiter and Gear Knob
  • Painted the hideous silver Speaker Grills - Black
  • Painted all of the "Champagne" Interior trims and Instrument Cluster Bezels in Anthracite
  • Additional item - Trimmed A-Pillar trims in Dark Grey Alcantara to match Steering Wheel.
  • Additional item - New "Freelander" Floor mats
  • Additional item - Sparco Carbon pedal covers (to replace worn-out/missing pedal rubbers).
I carried out all of the work myself, except for the Steering Wheel Re-trim - I left that to Royal Steering Wheels, and what a great job they did!

A-Pillar trimming -

A-Pillar Std.JPG A-Pillar Trimming.JPG A-Pillar Finished.JPG

Interior -

Interior.JPG Steering Wheel.JPG Centre Console.JPG Passenger Side Dash.JPG

Safe to say the Inside of the Freelander is now a much nicer place to be!

Contemplating Re-trimming the headlining Black/Dark Grey now to match, just looking for some donor Black Sun-visors. (Also thinking a 7" screen would be nice in place of the Standard Head Unit!)

Rob
 
I love it when the bug bites :)

Just a word of warning regard LED's installed in 'normal' lights. . Recently read an article in Practical Classics (IIRC) directly taken from the government body regards vehicle standards. Unless the light housing/unit . Upgraded or specifically made fo LED's then the fitment of LED bulbs I deemed illegal. (Or words to that effect). The article smelt of 'Big Brother' bullying to me! You may find an angry Traffic Cop o the wrong wrong wrong wrong mal adjusted LED's one day. Tried to find the article but it may have been in another mag/issue. Best clarifying beforehand methinks? :-/
 
I love it when the bug bites :)

Just a word of warning regard LED's installed in 'normal' lights. . Recently read an article in Practical Classics (IIRC) directly taken from the government body regards vehicle standards. Unless the light housing/unit . Upgraded or specifically made fo LED's then the fitment of LED bulbs I deemed illegal. (Or words to that effect). The article smelt of 'Big Brother' bullying to me! You may find an angry Traffic Cop o the wrong wrong wrong wrong mal adjusted LED's one day. Tried to find the article but it may have been in another mag/issue. Best clarifying beforehand methinks? :-/

LEDs in standard filament lights are currently a bit of a grey area. But I can see legislation arriving soon that will outlaw there use, just as HID are outlawed. However HID upgrades still seem to get into "boy racer'' headlights and go unnoticed. Imho, having most of the light leave the reflectors uncontrolled seems a massive waste of light output. My conventional halogen bulbs put much more light on the road, than these HIDs do, simply because the HID light is too diffused to light the road correctly.
 

Similar threads