Hi guys and gals newly registered here in the hope of finding the cure for my poorly hippo. where should i start lol its a 51 plate td4, i was driving one night and heard a huge bang followed with driving a slug!!! bellows of smoke and it turned out i had blown the end off the intercooler and split the inlet manifold!! so I have replaced the intercooler and inlet manifold, replaced the map sensor and the boost solenoid under the inlet manifold, and blanked the egr and yet still as soon as i hit a hill and get above 50 it loses all power and goes flat, i can hear the turbo trying to work and as soon as you are back on the flat shes off again. what else am i going to have to buy:-/
When mine had the same symptoms I ended up taking the turbo apart, cleaning the cr*p off the sticking variable vanes and then putting it back together - fixed the problem and 2 years and over 30k miles since without ever having to see that annoying EML light nor lack of power on hills.
I know there are other things to try first but the only difficult job with the turbo was lying on your back under the engine with your hands up above your head getting the sodding thing out and back in again - cleaning it is not a difficult job and so much cheaper than a £600+ new turbo (which you'd still have to fit or pay to fit anyway).
Hoping your solution is easier but don't rule out the sticking vanes issues - quite common with this engine apparently and don't let LR or any garage tell you a new turbo is 100% required - it may not be, just a clean may do it.
I know there are other things to try first but the only difficult job with the turbo was lying on your back under the engine with your hands up above your head getting the sodding thing out and back in again - cleaning it is not a difficult job and so much cheaper than a £600+ new turbo (which you'd still have to fit or pay to fit anyway).
Hoping your solution is easier but don't rule out the sticking vanes issues - quite common with this engine apparently and don't let LR or any garage tell you a new turbo is 100% required - it may not be, just a clean may do it.
E
asy way to test the boost valve is to disconnect the vacuum pipe from the solenoid to the turbo.Hi Alan , just got in from a great afternoon holding things for mr sparksVery thorough and although can't be 100% sure , there is a fault with the boost control solenoid and boost pressure came up as a fault . Clear fault and runs for a short distance and then limp home mode cuts in again . won't get part till next week so will wait with baited breath to see if yours is fixed with the solenoid ! also a bit of oil in the air intake getting passed the turbo , not a lot , is this normal ? he muttered somthing about seal in turbo on the way out but by this time was too cold to care anymore
Reply to an old post but my engine management light came on just as I was going for a MOT Fault code P1E30 Turns out it was a broken wire going to the boost control solenoid. Soldered it back together, all fixed. Worth checking if you have this fault the other wire was about to break as well so could be a common fault.
Fault code P1E30 Turns out it was a broken wire going to the boost control solenoid. Soldered it back together, all fixed. Worth checking if you have this fault the other wire was about to break as well so could be a common fault.bg_freelander
Active Member
Hi folks,
my Freelander 2004, auto, TD4 , has the same symptoms which I have had for several years.
I made some pics yesterday around the boost solenoid. The wires which go to the boost solenoid seem to be OK, also the tubes are OK... I spotted oil on the turbo... Is there a concern regarding the functionality of the turbo? Where I should look for the problem? The fault code reader says “ short circuit to V batt” ? I
There have been Silicon turbo hoses installed, egr bypass... synergy 2, and and
Many thanks in advance!
Kliment
my Freelander 2004, auto, TD4 , has the same symptoms which I have had for several years.
I made some pics yesterday around the boost solenoid. The wires which go to the boost solenoid seem to be OK, also the tubes are OK... I spotted oil on the turbo... Is there a concern regarding the functionality of the turbo? Where I should look for the problem? The fault code reader says “ short circuit to V batt” ? I
There have been Silicon turbo hoses installed, egr bypass... synergy 2, and and
Many thanks in advance!
Kliment
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bg_freelander
Active Member
Hello,
I do still have the problem with my Freelander. Any suggestions to the above posting would be appreciated.
Thanks
Kliment
I do still have the problem with my Freelander. Any suggestions to the above posting would be appreciated.
Thanks
Kliment
