tlo
Active Member
Do you have any pics so if I went down that route I would know were to drill ?
You're right Hodge, and I did consider doing that, but as I was planning to do a mod on the tray I decided it might be the only time I would need to remove the frame. However, should I ever need to drop it again I will surely do what you suggest.
What I did with mine was:
I've since bought a sump guard which was made by someone welding a piece of 5mm alloy plate across the rails of the frame of the original guard, next service I'm going to cut a hatch in it, wled a picture frame shaped plate on the inside of it which i'll tap holes into or set rivnuts into take countersunk bolts so i only have to unbolt a postcard sized plate to get to the sump plug. Either that or buy a vacuum oil drainer to suck the oil out of the dipstick tube without having to disturb the sump guard.
- drill out the pop rivets that hold the plastic section into the alloy frame
- then did away with the flimsy brackets that connect the plastic plate to the frame
- cut some alloy angle stainless bolted them to the frame
- and made a 5mm steel plate to replace the plastic component, stick welded in a second piece at an angle for the front
- jacked this plate up into position and drilled through it and the alloy angle
- lowered it again enlarged the holes in the alloy angle to take rivnuts
- set m10 rivnuts in the holes
- jack the plate back up and bolt into place
- voila! Home made (Heavy weight) sump guard thats easy to remove for servicing as I only had to drop the plate not the frame.
I've since bought a sump guard which was made by someone welding a piece of 5mm alloy plate across the rails of the frame of the original guard, next service I'm going to cut a hatch in it, wled a picture frame shaped plate on the inside of it which i'll tap holes into or set rivnuts into take countersunk bolts so i only have to unbolt a postcard sized plate to get to the sump plug. Either that or buy a vacuum oil drainer to suck the oil out of the dipstick tube without having to disturb the sump guard.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
You need a set of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bo...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPzB9IicyNcCFSej7QodmZoB9AMy son had to buy a vacuum drainer because there was no way we could undo the sump plug on is 1.8 we started to round it off , I have never used one before so I have no idea if they are any good but that's for another threadbut I think a mod is needed to change the oil
I can vouch for these having saved me a couple of times on rounded bolts that others have put there before I bought my hippo.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
They Saveed me in time and money and they are expensive (although you can find them a bit cheaper else where) and I do wish they gave you the full set instead of having to purchase the expansion pack but it's still worth it. Just a note some times you have to file the flats on a bolt or nut to get them on but still does the trick
I removed my modified Engine Undertray, earlier today, as preparartion for replacing the seals in my HP Injector Pump, replacing the Water (coolant) Pump & thermostat, and the two drive belts. All 3 jobs overlap the others so it made sense to do them all.My earlier mod was to de-rivet the tray's connection to the alloy frame that carries it, replacing the removed side-mounted rivets with four 10mm bolts (2 each side) with four penny-washers, and none up forward. It works beautifully and came off easily in just a few minutes... with no scraped knuckles or swearing. lol
My wife says she can tell how my jobs are proceeding by the amount or lack of cursing heard. And if I start singing/whistling/humming as I wrap-up... the job is good-to-go and gets a beer ready for me. A great wife.
I'm in a position now where I've removed all that was needed & pre-slackened the pump's sprocket nut.
I'll carry on tomorrow with all that's left to do.
The important thing here though, is the tray can be easily modified for ease-of-access at no great expense. And that's important, I reckon.
The pump took an age to remove. I couldn't do it without removing the starter motor first. I have no idea how any could do the job with it still in place.
I stripped all three pump covers, removing & replacing the seals, including the conical in its correct position. The screws were so tight I needed to use a sharpish-ended chisel to crack their tension before I could unscrew them.
I have to add, that no-where did anyone state that the three pump covers were face-to-face, because the are not! There is a slight gap between the faces/surfaces. In point of fact, when the pump's three covers are removed (one at a time) there is a whole lot of crap to be cleaned away before any remedial work can be carried out.
I was under the impression these were mating surfaces, but they are deffinitely not. I cleaned them and refitted them, with light shown between the upper & lower surfaces after they were screwed together again.
Jeez, I'm hoping all will be well tomorrow when after reconnecting everything the system is fuel-tight.
I will add this, one of the best tools you can have in your kit is a piece of piping. It makes an excellent extension to most tools and gives you an edge when it comes to tightening.
Oh, the Torx screws are s**t (merde). They give no real amount of purchase and are easily rounded-off. Allen screws would be much better. So, if anyone knows the thread-size can they please pass it on. And if I learn what the size is I will have a dozen in stock (in my nuts & bolts box) just in case I need to do the whole thing again. Torx are really s**t. If you can, replace any you find as you go through a job. They are a pain.
And... when I undid the pump, with all the correct extraction tools, etc, in place, the lower mounting nut, which you cannot see, fell into the void beneath.
I searched for this nut and couldn't locate it, using an LED torch and bent piece of 3mm (1/8th) wire. By the way, the wire ended up going through my right-hand's little finger - passing close to the bone, I reckon. The blood flowed like there was no tomorrow and splashed everywhere (Aztecs sacrificed blood for better times, I've done it for no leaks, lol).
The good news is... after swelling, and being a bit stiff, it stopped leaking and the swelling quickly subsided. I'm left with no swelling or stiffness, with only a slight oozing from both holes. The wire went through the muscle and has all but healed itself. I'll also say this, I have never taken any anti-biotics for over 17 years, so believe my immune system is up-to-scratch, no pun intended. My finger is working, bending as well as ever with no pain, numbness or stiffness at all. I just have this hole that passes through it.
Anyway, the pump and the blind-nut beneath? To refit it, I used a different nut as I could not locate the original. I had to use a mirror & torch to see where the stud was in relation to fitting the replacement. That worked well, and my wife helped by supplying a small mirror for the purpose.
All-in-all, this job is a real bugger. I hope I never need to do it ever again. I'm not religious, by any strech of the imagination, but I'm praying the pump will not leak when pressure is applied.
I am aware others have done this and they say it's kind of easy or straightforward. I, on the other hand, have found it to quite strenuous, not forgetting bloody!
The drive belts too, are a pain in the proverbial. The smaller of the two was a trial, but turning the engine-over with a socket helped. If you can imaging fitting a tyre onto a bicycle rim the idea will give you an idea of how to do it.
The larger belt has been left for tomorrow. As well as fitting everything that needs to be.
I have taken some photo's, but not as many as I meant to. These will be shown when all is finished.
The seals, by the way. I bought them off Ebay.uk and the selling firm asked for the Pump Label numbers so they could send the correct kit. They did. I will also pass on their info too.
As for now, I'm off to bed, to dream of a sealed pump and a fixed finger.
I stripped all three pump covers, removing & replacing the seals, including the conical in its correct position. The screws were so tight I needed to use a sharpish-ended chisel to crack their tension before I could unscrew them.
I have to add, that no-where did anyone state that the three pump covers were face-to-face, because the are not! There is a slight gap between the faces/surfaces. In point of fact, when the pump's three covers are removed (one at a time) there is a whole lot of crap to be cleaned away before any remedial work can be carried out.
I was under the impression these were mating surfaces, but they are deffinitely not. I cleaned them and refitted them, with light shown between the upper & lower surfaces after they were screwed together again.
Jeez, I'm hoping all will be well tomorrow when after reconnecting everything the system is fuel-tight.
I will add this, one of the best tools you can have in your kit is a piece of piping. It makes an excellent extension to most tools and gives you an edge when it comes to tightening.
Oh, the Torx screws are s**t (merde). They give no real amount of purchase and are easily rounded-off. Allen screws would be much better. So, if anyone knows the thread-size can they please pass it on. And if I learn what the size is I will have a dozen in stock (in my nuts & bolts box) just in case I need to do the whole thing again. Torx are really s**t. If you can, replace any you find as you go through a job. They are a pain.
And... when I undid the pump, with all the correct extraction tools, etc, in place, the lower mounting nut, which you cannot see, fell into the void beneath.
I searched for this nut and couldn't locate it, using an LED torch and bent piece of 3mm (1/8th) wire. By the way, the wire ended up going through my right-hand's little finger - passing close to the bone, I reckon. The blood flowed like there was no tomorrow and splashed everywhere (Aztecs sacrificed blood for better times, I've done it for no leaks, lol).
The good news is... after swelling, and being a bit stiff, it stopped leaking and the swelling quickly subsided. I'm left with no swelling or stiffness, with only a slight oozing from both holes. The wire went through the muscle and has all but healed itself. I'll also say this, I have never taken any anti-biotics for over 17 years, so believe my immune system is up-to-scratch, no pun intended. My finger is working, bending as well as ever with no pain, numbness or stiffness at all. I just have this hole that passes through it.
Anyway, the pump and the blind-nut beneath? To refit it, I used a different nut as I could not locate the original. I had to use a mirror & torch to see where the stud was in relation to fitting the replacement. That worked well, and my wife helped by supplying a small mirror for the purpose.
All-in-all, this job is a real bugger. I hope I never need to do it ever again. I'm not religious, by any strech of the imagination, but I'm praying the pump will not leak when pressure is applied.
I am aware others have done this and they say it's kind of easy or straightforward. I, on the other hand, have found it to quite strenuous, not forgetting bloody!
The drive belts too, are a pain in the proverbial. The smaller of the two was a trial, but turning the engine-over with a socket helped. If you can imaging fitting a tyre onto a bicycle rim the idea will give you an idea of how to do it.
The larger belt has been left for tomorrow. As well as fitting everything that needs to be.
I have taken some photo's, but not as many as I meant to. These will be shown when all is finished.
The seals, by the way. I bought them off Ebay.uk and the selling firm asked for the Pump Label numbers so they could send the correct kit. They did. I will also pass on their info too.
As for now, I'm off to bed, to dream of a sealed pump and a fixed finger.
