JC600
Well-Known Member
When they are allowed to cook properly, spot on when on operational tour. But when back in the UK, the cook houses had civvy contractors. Might be different now lol
When they are allowed to cook properly, spot on when on operational tour. But when back in the UK, the cook houses had civvy contractors. Might be different now lol
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
Hi, I have just purchased (if they ever get here) allegedly genuine LR driving light pod things for my FL. I see you have done similar but fog lights? Is there any threads going through the fitting of the pods you know of? I have looked at the instructions and frankly can see immense scope for a visit from Mr CockupWhen they are allowed to cook properly, spot on when on operational tour. But when back in the UK, the cook houses had civvy contractors. Might be different now lol
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The pods were available as long range spots or fog lights.
I sold a set of fogs last year. I only bought them for the dash switch.
I have a set if spots under my workshop bench, ready to fit, when time allows.
They aren't that difficult to fit, if you can follow the pictorial fitting guide.
I sold a set of fogs last year. I only bought them for the dash switch.
I have a set if spots under my workshop bench, ready to fit, when time allows.
They aren't that difficult to fit, if you can follow the pictorial fitting guide.
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
Looking at the diagrams I feel that it seems ok to do but we shall see.....
JC600
Well-Known Member
Just read through a few times, and take your time. As Nodge says, it's fairly straight forward. Just make sure you've got all the tools before you start. And the cutting templates.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I think that getting the wiring through the bulkhead is the hardest part. It's very difficult to access the back of the harness grommet from the inside.
I am thinking about fitting LEDs to my spot pods. The idea being to use them as DRLs by driving them at low power from an ignition supply. Then drive the LEDs at full power for main beam.
I am thinking about fitting LEDs to my spot pods. The idea being to use them as DRLs by driving them at low power from an ignition supply. Then drive the LEDs at full power for main beam.
JC600
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it's a right pain getting the cable through.
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
Also, bought a soft top from a lovely couple who have sold their TD4 FL and have an enormous Disco 3litre small house on wheels! Really good top, and putting it on has started the rain that we need apparently. Got to change diff bushes tomorrow.
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
And Valium probably hahaJust read through a few times, and take your time. As Nodge says, it's fairly straight forward. Just make sure you've got all the tools before you start. And the cutting templates.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
My next job is corrosion proofing, first up I'm going to attack the underside. Then when it's warmer the inner wings (first I'll have to get the arch liners out). After that I'll be sorting the scuffed rear bumper and a few other bits. Going to get messy lol.
I've been meaning to do the same rust protection on mine since I've had it. I've got the products, just not the inclination.
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
Thanks I do like this car, about the first car I have ever enjoyed owning. Nodge; are you saying swap front to rear and rear to front to even put wear and protect drivetrain etc? I have not swapped them yet but was thinking about the tyres the other day. They were a complete matching new set when I bought the car so that aspect was good.Nice looking 3 door. The wheels need moving front to back though
Also, gotta change diff bushes tomorrow but confident after reading threads that it's not too bad a job. Will swap wheels then if I need to.
Appreciate any advice as always gentlemen.
JC600
Well-Known Member
I've been meaning to do the same rust protection on mine since I've had it. I've got the products, just not the inclination.
Ive been putting it, so just going to do it.....get it over and done with lol
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
I did Hammerite the fuel tank cradle because I didn't want to replace it and I am going to carry on tomorrow when I have done the diff mounts. I love Hammerite meIve been putting it, so just going to do it.....get it over and done with lol
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Philgt50
Well-Known Member
If that's what you would do it shall be so and I will evidence with pictures. The question will be around FL matters; WWND?And put the least worn tyres on the rear?
So; swap the pairs as pairs is my understanding?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The FL1 4X4 system is very fussy on tyres, if serious damage is to be avoided. All tyres MUST be the same make, type and size. And the least worn MUST be on the rear. It is permissible to fit a pair of new tyres. However they must be identical to those that will be moved to the front. New tyres MUST go on the rear. Do this and the 4X4 system will last well. Not maintaining tyres as per the manufacturers spec WILL massively shorten the drive trains life.
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Philgt50
Well-Known Member
Thanks Nodge; that's what I thought so I will swap them round today. I replaced the VCU and bearings last November which was all good, apart from none of my really helpful friends or family turning up to help hold it up when replacing it. Don't know whereabouts you are but I'm going to Beaulieu Motor Museum tomorrow; Landrover rummage autojumble. As long as diff bushes behave and go in
