Looking good indeed. I just about finished sump guard today but not put it on yet. I was going to put some pictures on last week because I cleaned it but then the weather went crap and it's filthy again. So I am going to try again tomorrow. So it will rainFront does look mean! lol
Looking good indeed. I just about finished sump guard today but not put it on yet. I was going to put some pictures on last week because I cleaned it but then the weather went crap and it's filthy again. So I am going to try again tomorrow. So it will rain
Hope it is dry for your week mate. I would start a thread but we are scarily doing similar things at similar times to very similar cars so I am leaving it to you . Seriously I will put some pictures on when it is suitably clean. A question though; on the sump plate what drainage / ventilation holes are necessary? I have the TD4 2006 face lift too. Thanks mateCheers, I'm off for a week now so will definitely be raining lol.......sounds good mate, you'll have to start a thread on your Freelander.
Hope it is dry for your week mate. I would start a thread but we are scarily doing similar things at similar times to very similar cars so I am leaving it to you . Seriously I will put some pictures on when it is suitably clean. A question though; on the sump plate what drainage / ventilation holes are necessary? I have the TD4 2006 face lift too. Thanks mate
Yes I saw the Mantec one had no holes but read somewhere that the plastic one helps cooling or ventilation or something but maybe I will just give it a go and see what happens...... that looks stupid written down. How many times have I done that in life and ended in trouble hahaYeah me too, got loads to do. Haha....great minds and all that lol. I just copied the original drain holes at the time. The Mantec sump guards have no drain holes whatsoever.
Yes I saw the Mantec one had no holes but read somewhere that the plastic one helps cooling or ventilation or something but maybe I will just give it a go and see what happens...... that looks stupid written down. How many times have I done that in life and ended in trouble haha
Bl00dy hell. Any oil left in the sump
I wonder if it was left to generate a bit more maintenance that could be billed by LR but I'm cynical like that. On a separate note, if I bolt new aluminium sump guard to subframe does that work ok? I am wondering if I will need to put a rubber spacer or similar between sump guard and subframe to stop any rattling or vibrations or is it ok to just bolt down? If that makes sense? It's very clear in my head until I wrote it downPretty mucky. When I changed mine to the vortex type you could have wrung out that little bog roll filter and done an oil change on a lawn mower with the drippings. Can't imagine why it was fitted all the way up to 2006.
I wonder if it was left to generate a bit more maintenance that could be billed by LR but I'm cynical like that. On a separate note, if I bolt new aluminium sump guard to subframe does that work ok? I am wondering if I will need to put a rubber spacer or similar between sump guard and subframe to stop any rattling or vibrations or is it ok to just bolt down? If that makes sense? It's very clear in my head until I wrote it down. BTW....And it is raining as I knew it would because I washed the car earlier to take photos to post haha QUOTES]
You see? I knew there would be an explanation. I am just too cynical. It's a curseI actually believe that the fluffy filter works better than the vortex type. A Dyson uses the vortex principal to spin dirt out of the air. But just check out the Dyson motor filter. That's full of fine dust that the vortex didn't remove.
The same can happen with the TD4 vortex filter.
The main reason for blue smoke with the fluffy filter, is the PC valve itself sticking open.
The vortex assembly comes with a new PC valve, so the blue smoke generally dissappears. I still reckon more oil goes into the engine with the vortex filter if lots of high speed, low boost driving is done.
I wonder if it was left to generate a bit more maintenance that could be billed by LR but I'm cynical like that. On a separate note, if I bolt new aluminium sump guard to subframe does that work ok? I am wondering if I will need to put a rubber spacer or similar between sump guard and subframe to stop any rattling or vibrations or is it ok to just bolt down? If that makes sense? It's very clear in my head until I wrote it down
I actually believe that the fluffy filter works better than the vortex type. A Dyson uses the vortex principal to spin dirt out of the air. But just check out the Dyson motor filter. That's full of fine dust that the vortex didn't remove.
The same can happen with the TD4 vortex filter.
The main reason for blue smoke with the fluffy filter, is the PC valve itself sticking open.
The vortex assembly comes with a new PC valve, so the blue smoke generally dissappears. I still reckon more oil goes into the engine with the vortex filter if lots of high speed, low boost driving is done.
The engine in a BMW has more power to start with and uses a vortex system. Hopefully it won't clog up like the filter does, and as I brought a full assembly the PC valve should be good for a while.