Shabe · Jun 5, 2024

Hello, im from norway and recently changed some oils(engine and automatic transmission oil) on a Freelander 1, 4td 2.0 diesel 2006.

I was wondering if someone knows the capacity to fill trans fluid to the right level, i found 4L in the internet and drained all from below(plug was right under car facing downwards). Filled it with 4L but unsure if i need to fill more..

And the brakes recently seized today(sound and high temp disks), could someone pls tell me what to look for? Also for the rear drumbrake type, if it is heavily rusted on the outside, what would be the chance to replace drum and pads for the rear axle?(ie get the drums and pads out of the rear wheels)

Thanks in advance

Freddie17 · Jun 18, 2024

Your auto trans fluid is filled until it ‘spills’ from the check plug on the side of the gearbox.
You need to be on very flat level ground, and have warmed the gearbox to a temp range, then run the gearbox through the selectors for a couple of seconds… then open the check plug and allow any fluid to drain out - once it stops dripping it’s done. If none drips out, add until it does, then follow process again.

The rear drums have brake shoes in (not pads). The drum, shoes and cylinder can all be replaced. Note that shoes are trickier than pads. Photos of how the springs are all connected are a good idea, before you remove the old ones.

Shabe · Saturday at 18:32

Freddie17 said:
Your auto trans fluid is filled until it ‘spills’ from the check plug on the side of the gearbox.
You need to be on very flat level ground, and have warmed the gearbox to a temp range, then run the gearbox through the selectors for a couple of seconds… then open the check plug and allow any fluid to drain out - once it stops dripping it’s done. If none drips out, add until it does, then follow process again.

The rear drums have brake shoes in (not pads). The drum, shoes and cylinder can all be replaced. Note that shoes are trickier than pads. Photos of how the springs are all connected are a good idea, before you remove the old ones.

Thx for info, recently changed calipers, bled and filled with dot4. In addition i put silicon lube on caliper guide pins and ceramic on the pads where they touch brackets and backside.

However after testing i immediately heard same sound as last time which is a squeaky noise when reversing and little squeak when driving forward… the rotors and pads are relatively new so i didnt change them

GrumpyGel · Sunday at 06:31

Have you installed the correct parts?

There are 2 types of rotor and caliper. The early ones were solid rotors, the latter vented. You'll need the appropriate calipers.

Presumably the pads are not being released from the rotor correctly. If the calipers are new, they won't be rusted, but if you used 2nd hand parts they could be or the seals perished.

I'm not a great expert on brakes, but I imagine for the pads to release, fluid must flow back into the master cylinder reservoir as you take your foot off the brake. This presumably requires air to escape through a vent, could that be blocked?

If you do not know the history of the rear brakes, you should strip them down and examine them. The shoes are tied to the backing plates with small pins. These are known to corrode and break. This allows the shoes to drop off the cylinders, brake fluid escapes and you have total brake failure - often when you need them to work!

I've replaced everything in my rear brakes (cylinder, shoes, drums, springs) - although I forgot to replace the adjusters, but I cleaned & checked them. The parts are really cheap and I got them from UK shipped to the other side of the planet. Here we do not have salt on the roads and the brake pipes connecting to the cylinders were not damaged - these often have to be replaced though and are not cheap if you can not make them up yourself.

As stated - when you get the drums off, take pictures of the inside so that you know how the bits go back together.

Shabe · Sunday at 08:10

GrumpyGel said:
Have you installed the correct parts?

There are 2 types of rotor and caliper. The early ones were solid rotors, the latter vented. You'll need the appropriate calipers.

Presumably the pads are not being released from the rotor correctly. If the calipers are new, they won't be rusted, but if you used 2nd hand parts they could be or the seals perished.

I'm not a great expert on brakes, but I imagine for the pads to release, fluid must flow back into the master cylinder reservoir as you take your foot off the brake. This presumably requires air to escape through a vent, could that be blocked?

If you do not know the history of the rear brakes, you should strip them down and examine them. The shoes are tied to the backing plates with small pins. These are known to corrode and break. This allows the shoes to drop off the cylinders, brake fluid escapes and you have total brake failure - often when you need them to work!

I've replaced everything in my rear brakes (cylinder, shoes, drums, springs) - although I forgot to replace the adjusters, but I cleaned & checked them. The parts are really cheap and I got them from UK shipped to the other side of the planet. Here we do not have salt on the roads and the brake pipes connecting to the cylinders were not damaged - these often have to be replaced though and are not cheap if you can not make them up yourself.

As stated - when you get the drums off, take pictures of the inside so that you know how the bits go back together.

Hello thx for taking time to reply, i use vented rotors and im 80% its the right caliper fitted as they were slightly loose when i first put them on but they were snug after bleeding brakes. They were cheap however and im maybe starting to think the old ones were alright but it doesnt hurt to change i guess… they did look almost identical to the original calipers

I also changed the shims or brackets whatever they are called, and cleaned a bit with sandpaper and brakecleaner on there, before i put pads on i did smear on some high temp metal free paste made for brake pads, on backside and where they touch the shims except for the shoulder of the pads but the «ears» i put enough grease.

I dont have a reference for how brake pads are supposed to slide back and forth between brackets, but they were a little bit stiff maybe…

Also for the braking and it venting when releasing brakes, i had no idea it worked like this i always thought it was a closed system.. do you know where this vent could be for me to check?

Also for the rear brakes… i mean they look so heavily rusted on the outside im just gonna change it all i suppose… i do have the parts for it tho. Except for the springs which im wondering if i should replace too(havent opened rear brakes yet).

Freddie17 · Sunday at 08:27

Rear brake drums will look rusted on the outside… to be fair, as GG says, the pins inside will probably be rusted, so worth your while stripping and replacing all if you plan on keeping it - quite inexpensive. I just cleaned the adjusters on a wire wheel. Make sure to get new wheel cylinders also and replace those - pretty much guarantee your bleed nipples on the back of them will be seized/rounded anyway, and you’ll be knackered when you come to bleeding.

You could also try flushing all the DOT4 out for new… that will help as I bet it’s quite old.

Shabe · Sunday at 08:35

Freddie17 said:
Rear brake drums will look rusted on the outside… to be fair, as GG says, the pins inside will probably be rusted, so worth your while stripping and replacing all if you plan on keeping it - quite inexpensive. I just cleaned the adjusters on a wire wheel. Make sure to get new wheel cylinders also and replace those - pretty much guarantee your bleed nipples on the back of them will be seized/rounded anyway, and you’ll be knackered when you come to bleeding.

You could also try flushing all the DOT4 out for new… that will help as I bet it’s quite old.

Overall the car is moderately rusted below(exhaust heavily flaking) but rest seems alright as i can also just spray with sheepfat spray which is what is used here for rust protection to stop further rust.

GG also said i might need to replace brake pipes… i dont even know where to begin with this if they need to be replaced.. I hope not tho

The brakefluid was a bit off color so a good time to change

Freddie17 · Sunday at 12:26

If you are going to spray the bottom with lanoguard or similar, get the loose rust off first with a wire brush…

Freddie17 · Sunday at 12:36

The inside of your drums will look like something like this - I don’t how long mine had been in for (this pic is obviously prior to me stripping).
The wheel cylinder at the top should be replaced, and the 2 ‘rusty’ pins we refer to can be seen left and right.

Note all the spring positions before you strip it.

DO NOT breath the dust in…

Fitting is the reverse of removal, as said by every Haynes going!

Drum is only held in by 2 x-head screws (once the wheel is off obviously)

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