Hi,

Joined the site last week as we have just bought the wife a 2003 freelander TD4.

Today she came out of work and the rear window was open by itself? She unlocked the car and now the horn goes off each time she uses the fob.

The rear window has now gone up (took for ever).

Does anyone have any idea what has caused this as were worried now?

I did fit a new stereo for her at the weekend, could it be possible this is a sign the battery is getting flat??

Also just had the omissions light come on!! Not a good day! - any idea on what this could be?!

Any help would be appreciated!

Sounds like it could be a dying battery. Each time you reconnect the battery the tailgate window winds down and you have to manualy raise it again. So if there's a dodgy connection or the battery is fecked then that might happen.

When you say "the horn goes off" is it just a short beep when you lock the car via the fob? Or is the alarm going off when she's away from the locked car?

Check your manual to see when the emissions light comes on, as far as I understand it on the older Freelanders that don't have the battery warning light, the CCU turns on warning lights one by one as your battery runs out of juice until your two main clocks switch off - then it's serious brown trousers time.

So yeh sounds like a fecked battery to me, go and get it checked by a good garage. I don't reccomend going to Halfrauds Auto Center or **** Fit. Get a decent quality maintainance free battery, you'll be looking at £80+ for a decent one I reckon.

Good luck. And buy a Haynes manual.

If you're new to Freelander ownership, it's absolutely essential that you read and understand this:

Hippo's guide to Hippos. Doing so now will potentially prevent thousands of pounds worth of repairs.

Welcome by the way ,

Will.

Hi, Thank you for the detailed reply and link to problems lol

Yes - Horn is just once when you press lock etc.

So its sounds the like the battery, poss from the new stereo being fitted? Could be draining the battery? This would in turn cause the omission light to come on and off?

Cheers Jamie

Jamiek5861 said:

Hi, Thank you for the detailed reply and link to problems lol

Yes - Horn is just once when you press lock etc.

So its sounds the like the battery, poss from the new stereo being fitted? Could be draining the battery? This would in turn cause the omission light to come on and off?

Cheers Jamie

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It's possible, but it may just be an old battery too. Again, a good garage will be able to check this for you. If the horn is beeping once when you lock via the fob then that means that the CCU thinks one of the doors is still open. This is usually down to a dodgy microswitch in the tailgate locking mechanism, but one of the door lock actuators could be equally to blame.

The microswitch in my tailgate lock actuator was very loosely mounted with alot of play it it, which meant that it wasn't always depressed fully when the tailgate was closed and would oftenh set the alrm off. There was no damage it's just a ****ty piece of design and workmanship. It's easy enough to remove the play in it by packing something behind it or screwing it in place with a very small self tapper. Again this is cheap garage work if that's the issue - takes 15 ish mins to get the actuator off and apart. The microswitch is not in the handle itself, it's in the same unit where you can see the catch in the door. I sorted mine out and it's now flawless every time.

The door problem and the battery may be related but it's unlikely - the interior light auto-terminates after 10 or 15 minutes. The stereo might be a contributing factor but unless someone did a really bad job installing it are crossed some wires I don't see how that could be draining your battery.

When you're at the garage have the test your alternator, it's a long shot but you want to make sure that it's recharging the battery properly.

I don't know what conditions would cause your emission light to come on with your year of FL. You should see what it says in your owner's manual. Mine is a 2004 model so it has a battery warning light. Christ only knows why this basic warning mechanisms was omitted on the early Freelanders. Again, Land Rover design quirk. But it sounds to me like your electrical system is struggling due to either a dying battery or a duff alternator which isn't providing enough charge for the battery to be topped up while driving.

So are you all clued up about now what your VCU is and why you need good tyres etc ?

Will.

Ok - Well ill have a good play when at home tonight and report back, if not its off the garage! hopefully this wont happen again, but best to get battery checked etc as you say.

Not on VCU yet, but will have a read - Tyres are all brand new and same make so happy with that.

Thanks again for the reply!

Jamie

Good that they're all new. Make sure your rear propshaft in in place, when they are missing that's usually because the seller was trying to disguise transmission problems. If that car has over 70k miles on it it's best to get your VCU tested to make sure it isn't stiffening up.

We try to go through this with every new FL owner, it can save you alot of money.

Good luck.

Ok - Car is 90k 03 plate TD4, has FULL landrover history. Its automatic so will check on the VCU then?

Jamie

Jamiek5861 said:

Ok - Car is 90k 03 plate TD4, has FULL landrover history. Its automatic so will check on the VCU then?

Jamie

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Sounds like it's been well taken care of then. If you're ion the Midlands area I can reccomend Bell Engineering for testing your VCU, they can do it while you wait. They are the go-to guys for FL transmission. If you're not near there then a LR dealer can probably do it I think.

Other than that though once you get these electrical gremlins sorted it sounds like it will be a goodun.

Will.

I'm in herts mate.

If ya hold down the unlock button on the keyfob, the rear window drops - it is a feature to allow shoppers to put there wares in without opening the rear door. Raise it by putting the key in the taigate lock and turning to the right - hold there until the window is all the way up.

I found this problem occured several times when I slipped the key fob in my jeans pocket - the button got pressed as I walked away.
Learnt to be careful about that.

You may need to recalibrate the rear window by running it down and back up again.
The horn beep means it believes a door, the bonnet or the rear window are not fully closed.

I wonder if the above has cracked it?! The window stayed up over night so fingers crossed! She must of held the fob by mistake.

The omission light is on, Fault code finder picked up nothing, think ill pop it into the garage for them to review. Cheers for help

The earlier fobs had the buttons more exposed and easily presssed.

If she put the keys straight in a handbag - especially with all the stuff womenz want to hang on their keyring - it can easily be held down by being tightly pushed up against that or any of the mysterious stuff they keep in there.

I learnt not to pocket my keys until I was well away from the vehicle and keyfob range. I had observed it - Never happened again.

yeah did show her this thread yesterday! we shall see lol

Weird how the omission light is on but no fault being shown on read out. It did cut out after testing yesterday but started again after few minutes of trying.

Jamiek5861 said:

Weird how the omission light is on but no fault being shown on read out. It did cut out after testing yesterday but started again after few minutes of trying.

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The omission light? I knew Land Rover build quality wasn't stellar in those days but it was dashed decent of them to let you know when the assembly workers had omitted something.

However the emission light is something I can't remember off the top of my head . What is the symbol on the light and what color is it as it might be one of the more common warning light faults. I'm not sure if the freelander is smart enough to have an emission warning light so it might be something else. It's very common for the Hill Decent Control warning light, ABS warning light, Traction Control warning light and engine warning light to come on in various combinations. Mine needed a new camhaft position sensor and brake light switch before they fooked off permenantly.

Not all code readers are created equal though and the garage might be able to pick one up. It should still be stored in the cumputer.

Hi, Its states omission light in the manual. It has the ! mark in it and looks like engine, i thought it would be engine management but states omission light in the book only on D models?

Right ok, well I don't know alot about the doozles as mine is a K series. But it might be that your EGR valve is blocked, read through this:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/egr-blanking-mod-63948.html

Search for "TD4 Mods" and you'll come up with some possibilities.

Will.

Well went back to the garage we bought it from this morning as again it cut out on the wife, lucky she was two mins away from the place we got it.

They have said there code finder stated "low fuel pressure" so they have checked the fuel filter and its thats they recon. They have now ordered a new one. However my question is would this not be the fuel pump rather than the filter?

Jamiek5861 said:

Well went back to the garage we bought it from this morning as again it cut out on the wife, lucky she was two mins away from the place we got it.

They have said there code finder stated "low fuel pressure" so they have checked the fuel filter and its thats they recon. They have now ordered a new one. However my question is would this not be the fuel pump rather than the filter?

Click to expand...

Low pressure pump, high pressure pump, filter, injectors, pressure sensor, wiring! How many options do you want? All can cause low pressure faults. It depends how well they can interpret the fault code!!!!

How did this come from a rear window fault? No wonder peops can't find stuff!

Hi

Just wanted to say thanks to Will for that tip about the microswitch in the tailgate lock actuator.

Had problems with tailgate door not closing properly/bouncing back a couple of months ago so had the actuator off to give it a good clean out and free the sticky plunger which did the trick. Then a couple of weeks ago noticed interior lights staying on, door open warning light illuminated, horn sounding on locking and tail door glass was only working intermittently. Whipped the int lights/clock fuse out to save batt (kids sometimes leave rear int light on so safest way) while I tried to work out what was going on.

Tried re-calibrating but on reconnecting batt the window dropped as it should but never moved again! Went through self test which just failed every time it got to window up. Motor/cables were working OK and previous self test for actuator worked fine so never occurred to me that would be the prob. Swapped relays over and that made no difference. Eventually realised as CCU thinks door's not shut, that would stop window working and thought about what could be causing that? Did a different search and found this thread - packed actuator out and secured firmly in place and problem sorted so I'm very grateful to you.

Now time to move onto the next electrical problem - folding mirrors have both given up at the same time...