rob_bell said:
I was amazed that fully comp is often cheaper than 3PFT! May be they think you're more careful with more insurance cover? It's bizarre.

Back to the build thread: sounds like you've got an insurance solution. A power file is one of my absolute all-time favourite tools. Unfortunately frequent abuse leads to sanding belt failure, but these can be picked up really cheaply at shows... :)
Click to expand...
LOL, only used it once and already on to a new belt. I'll order a load online but it seems to be doing the job well.
 
I managed to replace the wheel studs last night by levering and tapping the hub off. I tapped these screwdrivers in the gap and then used a ball joint splitter to persuade it off. It was a simple job then to tap the old studs out and the new ones in. I know I should have replaced the bearing at the same time but I didn't have one and couldn't be bothered taking the drive shaft out so I just smeared a little lithium grease in and refitted. If it starts to rumble in the future I'll sort it then.
20160920_192457_zpsodvyeidm.jpg


And this morning I welded up the N/S chassis rail.
20160921_121927_zpsgi0nfers.jpg

As usual for me the welding isn't great but it'll have to do, I'm doing the O/S this afternoon, then a drop of paint and job's a goodun.
Once I've finished painting and refitted the upper ball joints I'll refit the brake shoes and bleed the brakes, then on to the fuel tank support plates, then finish the VCU and fit the prop shaft and once all that is done I can let the car down so I can get to the boot door to finish rubbing it down and respray it.
Should be finished by this evening. :p
 
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All painted and bolted back together. :)

20160921_174953_zpschinvgyp.jpg

20160921_174922_zps3nb7odz2.jpg


The cable ties are to hold the fuel lines which used to sit on top of the chassis rail, they're to keep them away from the gear pivot which you can see in the background. The wet drips are from release spray on the steering arm bolts, I need to know they can be loosened before I take it for wheel tracking, the track rod ends have already been loosened.

New brake cylinders ordered as the bleed nipples are seized solid so no chance of getting the brakes back together tonight. :mad:
 
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Looked good - and glad to hear that the cable ties aren't holding the chassis together! LOL

The welds look good now - and it all seems really neat. When will this hippo get back on its wheels?
 
rob_bell said:
Looked good - and glad to hear that the cable ties aren't holding the chassis together! LOL

The welds look good now - and it all seems really neat. When will this hippo get back on its wheels?
Click to expand...
LOl, me and good welds doesn't sound right but I'll take it anyway. I'll pick up the cylinders tomorrow morning and hopefully be ready to put the wheels back on by the afternoon. I still need to replace the fuel tank support plates, refill the VCU and bolt the propshaft back on before taking it off the stands.
 
I took a photo of the wheel studs all back in.

20160921_175017_zpsacpymwcf.jpg


Then a photo of the reminder to make sure I torque the hub nut after putting it back on the wheels. ;)

20160921_175050_zps9fd1ncct.jpg


Then spent a while this evening tapping the holes in the VCU and started filling again with 150g of 100k fluid.
As the shaft is in the way I needed an extension for the tap and a 1/4" extension bar did the trick nicely.

20160921_204656_zpsa0xhayuh.jpg


Then measured out 50mls of fluid and started injecting it in.

20160921_212217_zpsl6wgx5va.jpg

20160921_212237_zpshmf7024h.jpg


It's a slow process as the fluid needs to get down to the bottom of the VCU and inbetween al the disks. For some reason this one is particularly slow but I'll just keep at it injecting a little at a time and rotating the VCU to get it all the way down.
 
Alibro said:
I took a photo of the wheel studs all back in.

20160921_175017_zpsacpymwcf.jpg


Then a photo of the reminder to make sure I torque the hub nut after putting it back on the wheels. ;)

20160921_175050_zps9fd1ncct.jpg


Then spent a while this evening tapping the holes in the VCU and started filling again with 150g of 100k fluid.
As the shaft is in the way I needed an extension for the tap and a 1/4" extension bar did the trick nicely.

20160921_204656_zpsa0xhayuh.jpg


Then measured out 50mls of fluid and started injecting it in.

20160921_212217_zpsl6wgx5va.jpg

20160921_212237_zpshmf7024h.jpg


It's a slow process as the fluid needs to get down to the bottom of the VCU and inbetween al the disks. For some reason this one is particularly slow but I'll just keep at it injecting a little at a time and rotating the VCU to get it all the way down.
Click to expand...
Nice Job Alibro mate. :)
Out of interest, how did you drill the hoes and avoid the plates ?
Joe
 
I didn't Joe, It isn't possible but not really an issue as the top plate doesn't turn with the shaft, it is locked to the casing so you can see the marks on it all the time where the drill hit it.
 
Alibro said:
I didn't Joe, It isn't possible but not really an issue as the top plate doesn't turn with the shaft, it is locked to the casing you can see the marks on it all the time.
Click to expand...
Ah, ok. Did you use a very shallow angle bit or just a normal HS bit ? Also what thread size are you going for, I presume you are fitting a grease nipple and a blank ? (I don't know the thread size for a grease nipple off hand
I dont suppose it would actually matter if you even drilled a couple of plates - can't see it making any difference.
When you did the welded one, did you space the top plate before you welded it back on ? - ie - to keep it 1mm - or whatever the cutting disk width was, away from the body - or did you just clamp it together and weld it. Sorry for all the early questions :) - just pondering.....
 
Joe_H said:
Ah, ok. Did you use a very shallow angle bit or just a normal HS bit ? Also what thread size are you going for, I presume you are fitting a grease nipple and a blank ? (I don't know the thread size for a grease nipple off hand
I dont suppose it would actually matter if you even drilled a couple of plates - can't see it making any difference.
When you did the welded one, did you space the top plate before you welded it back on ? - ie - to keep it 1mm - or whatever the cutting disk width was, away from the body - or did you just clamp it together and weld it. Sorry for all the early questions :) - just pondering.....
Click to expand...
Normal bit, can't remember the exact size but I used a 1mm (extra fine) tap so whatever was recommended for that. I figured more thread would give a stronger grip
I don't like grease nipples as they don't have much thread, having said that I used them in the past with no issues. The VCU is approx 10mm thick on the top so now I use bolts cut down to size.
I wouldn't recommend drilling through the plates but as you say it probably wouldn't do much harm. Some swarf will end up floating around inside whatever you do (I can hear it when turning the shaft) but I'm sure it will find a wee corner and stay there.
I used bits of grinding disk to space out the VCU before welding. It was probably a few fractions of an mm out but close enough. I also marked it prior to cutting so I could get the lid lined up correctly.
 
I like to read your VCU exploits Alibro;)
I was thinking about doing mine tomorrow, but after today's brake job, mine is quite free. I have no trouble turning is slowly with a standard breaker bar. So for the moment, I'll leave it be. Good work on yours though.
 
Got a second syringe of fluid into the VCU today so just one more to go, each time I squirt some in I have to quickly screw in a couple of spare bolts so it doesn't come back out. It really takes a bit of pressure to get the stuff in and the syringe I have is pretty useful as it seals the hole while I'm filling it. I then turn it a few times and leave it to settle.
Also fitted a new wheel cylinder to the N/S wheel as the bleed nipple was seized, as were the securing bolts. :mad: What a pain of a job that was as I struggled for ages with grinders and cutting disks on the drill. It was a pain until I saw sense and lifted my new power file which was sitting beside me and the bolts were gone in seconds. :oops:
I was going to replace all the springs but found the spring kit I have is the wrong one so decided to just replace the securing pins as they are the same and usually the worst for rusting. Looks like I was just in time too as one was almost gone and the other looked like this. :eek:

Notice the rusty bolt to the right which snapped as soon as I touched it.
20160922_170034_zpswu3heqsk.jpg


So now apart from bleeding I'm finished with the brakes and can't be bothered getting dirty under the car messing with the fuel tank supports so I plan to reconnect the battery and try to get some Voltage measurements for Joe_H who is working on a programmable boost kit for the TD4.
I need to do a bit of reading first though to figure out what connectors he is talking about.
 
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Nodge68 said:
I like to read your VCU exploits Alibro;)
I was thinking about doing mine tomorrow, but after today's brake job, mine is quite free. I have no trouble turning is slowly with a standard breaker bar. So for the moment, I'll leave it be. Good work on yours though.
Click to expand...
I have a spare VCU on it's way along with a complete prop shaft and front suspension parts as I made a deal with the guy who sold me his wheels. His car is going to the scrappy with a blown headgasket but the wishbones looked new and a spare subframe might come in handy some day, so will have a play with that sometime. To be honest it is quicker and probably easier to cut the top off and do it right but I'm always wary of my dodgy welding leaking. :oops:
 
Great wee tip for anyone working on brakes and not wanting to have brake fluid pouring out the whole time.
I made these up and they are very handy.

20160922_155759_zpsok9p7opu.jpg
 
Haven't done a whole lot or updated for a while due to a family bereavement, but last day or two I managed to get the prop shaft back on.
This is the VCU finished with two grease nipples instead of the bolts I usually use. I figured they should be strong enough and hopefully should be less likely to cause vibration as lighter.
20160930_160952_zpsqgvkdaj5.jpg


I also picked these up from the guy who sold me the wheels, along with the front subframe, wishbones and struts.
20161001_175545_zpsk2ynluxv.jpg


I had a dodgy front part to my propshaft (can't remember what it's called but it was jammed solid) so wanted a replacement. The two propshafts came with issues like one had a bolt missing from the VCU and the other has a damper ring missing but I only paid £110 for the lot and the two wishbones weren't very old. :)

Then I got these fitted to the wheels I got from him.
20161004_190829_zpsrfvlws6k.jpg
 
Oh Bollix! :mad:
Apparently 16" wheels off a 99 or 00 Freelander won't fit over the brakes on an 02 Freelander :oops:
I knew the 15" wheels wouldn't fit but it never occurred the 16" wheels won't fit either. There is no way they'll fit without wheel spacers so now trying to decide whether to go that way or just look for the correct wheels and get the tyres swapped over.

Edit. I just checked the price of spacers and I think swapping the tyres over onto the correct wheels will be a fraction of the price.
Grrrrrrrrrr
 
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Alibro said:
Also while out shopping last week I found this in B&Q..
Click to expand...

Absolutely essential kit if you are into anything bodywork. I got mine from Aldi in their once a year turn up. I saw Ed China using one about three years ago and had to have one then it turned up in Aldi many months later. One of the attachments is like a tanks track laying drive :D:D and I last used it on the house windows before painting them. Very aggressive sander - beware.
 
Alibro said:
There is no way they'll fit without wheel spacers so now trying to decide whether to go that way or just look for the correct wheels and get the tyres swapped over.
Click to expand...

This is exactly why I always consider the backspace or offset.
I hate spacers, I'd get some other rims IMHO.
I like Kumhos and those look like they have a lot of tread. What size rubber are the rims shod with?
 
Alibro said:
Oh Bollix! :mad:
Apparently 16" wheels off a 99 or 00 Freelander won't fit over the brakes on an 02 Freelander :oops:
I knew the 15" wheels wouldn't fit but it never occurred the 16" wheels won't fit either. There is no way they'll fit without wheel spacers so now trying to decide whether to go that way or just look for the correct wheels and get the tyres swapped over.

Edit. I just checked the price of spacers and I think swapping the tyres over onto the correct wheels will be a fraction of the price.
Grrrrrrrrrr
Click to expand...
Yikes ! :( .. that is a shock...
I am just contemplating ordering some 16" rims from the UK (am awaiting a price and shipping costs) - never even considered the year. Like you, I thought a 16" rim off any freelander would fit the later brakes.
I am really disappointed for you Ali, but glad the problem is now known.
It really should go into the knowledge base area as a permanent note.
Joe

edit - could you please check if there is a part number on them - so I know the ones to avoid :confused:
 
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