03freelander
New Member
Hi - I am in the process of changing the busted clutch master cylinder on my freelander - could someone advise me as to how take the "quick" coupling comes apart? I don't want to get it wrong and break it!
03freelander
New Member
Thanks guys - great help and now job completed - I hope it lasts now!! Many thanks.
Hi another question, ive got an 04 plate TD4 so its the facelift model, the bracket has snapped that connects the push rod to the clutch pedal so its time for a new master cylinder 
(i have cable tied it together for now so i can still drive it) do all the new master cylinders come pre filled with clutch fluid? as i have been told these are a prefilled system and a ballache to bleed, is it as easy as disconnecting the old one and reconnecting the new one (Job done)?? if so is there anything to watch out for whilst doing it? im a mechanic myself but work for Toyota and this system is new to me unfortunately, any comments would be greatly apprectated thanks :crazy_driver:
(i have cable tied it together for now so i can still drive it) do all the new master cylinders come pre filled with clutch fluid? as i have been told these are a prefilled system and a ballache to bleed, is it as easy as disconnecting the old one and reconnecting the new one (Job done)?? if so is there anything to watch out for whilst doing it? im a mechanic myself but work for Toyota and this system is new to me unfortunately, any comments would be greatly apprectated thanks :crazy_driver:
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2Man Bleed Job.
Once its all connected and back onto the pedal etc.
Fill the Res. Pump the clutch pedal and hold the pedal down. Crack off the bleed nipple on the slave slightly (11mm spanner) and you'll feel the pressure release, lock it back off after 1-2 seconds. Repeat until air stops coming out.
Very easy job, might need doing more than once though. After the air settles and regroups it might need doing again the next day.
Very easy for anyone with a friend.....
Once its all connected and back onto the pedal etc.
Fill the Res. Pump the clutch pedal and hold the pedal down. Crack off the bleed nipple on the slave slightly (11mm spanner) and you'll feel the pressure release, lock it back off after 1-2 seconds. Repeat until air stops coming out.
Very easy job, might need doing more than once though. After the air settles and regroups it might need doing again the next day.
Very easy for anyone with a friend.....
zoolander
New Member
I did mine by myself following this guide.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-137699.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-137699.html
mjrimmer
Active Member
Nope....... They are meant to be a sealed system though and only have a small reservoir. But the cap comes off quite freely. I would however wedge a piece of thin card behind the reservoir before removing the cap as the sound proofing is prone to coming off and filling it with crap. Most people get away with standard bleeding but if this fails power bleeding normally works and failing that a few have had to reverse bleeding from the nipple.
freelanderer
Member
Hi all. When I changed my clutch master cylinder, the local independent workshop that supplied it said it was just "plug and play", as per the manual. There would be no need to bleed so I didn't and it has been OK. Hope that helps.
having repaced the master cylinder on the wifes 2005 td4, connected the pedal up, still very low, have back bled the system, nothing there pedal low, bled it normal method, pedal still low no resistance art all, no leaks anywhere, resevoir still same level, gut feeling telling me this is going to be expensive, only had the thing a year, not happy , previously had low pressure fuel pump, viscous coupling, rear diff mountings, no wonder they call them OFF ROAD VEHS, as thats where it spends most of its time
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
See my threads on low clutch. Sorted problem on my TD4 manual. Bleed with master detached from car and slight push rod extension to overcome design fault.
