Bobthecar said:
It hasnt been converted to FWD prop still fitted.

So if the car is not under any rear load on the bushes the wobble is normal ?
Click to expand...

I was getting confused with another similar problem on a FWD FL1.
Check all the diff bushes, especially the front one.
 
Alibro said:
In theory with only 82k miles the VCU should be OK but best check it soon. Just jack up one rear wheel, put a wheel brace on a nut and try to turn the wheel. If it turns without too much force yer probably OK. On my first Fl1 I couldn't make it turn at all that way so I knew the VCU was shot.
To prove if the issue is propshaft related or not taking the propshaft off is pretty easy. No special tools required and will only take a couple of hours.
If you have ramps, drive one side onto them, if not drive up onto some blocks of wood or concrete.
You should use torque sockets to loosen the bolts but I don't have any that fit so have always done it with 1/4" sockets and never had a problem.
Take the bolts out of either end and the four holding up the VCU. Catch the VCU on your chest and your sorted.
Click to expand...

I tried to remove the prop today

Unable to move the nuts on the other end of the torx bolt and unfortunately I don' have any torx sockets to try it the other way.

May have to order some off flea bay

Are the torx easy to remove as the nut other end felt like it was on super tight as couldnt budge it by hand
 
You're really better to loosen the nuts first. Did you try a ring spanner and bash it with a blunt instrument? If going for Torx I know a 1/2" won't fit so maybe a 3/8" might, not sure as I only ever used 1/4" hex sockets on them which fit enough to hold the bolt while loosening or tightening but not well enough to swing on them.
Also check the VCU BEFORE removing the propshaft. It'll only take a few minutes to do a quick and dirty test but you don't want to go to the bother of refitting the propshaft only to find the VCU is shot.
 
I got the prop off my '99 with regular sockets - but stuff is generally less rusted up over here as no salt gets put on the roads.

If you get some torx sockets they should come off easy as. You could try putting up a post to see if anyone has some local to you you could borrow or bring round for beer tokens, but it is well worth your while investing in some they are used in various places on Freelander.
 
Alibro said:
You're really better to loosen the nuts first. Did you try a ring spanner and bash it with a blunt instrument? If going for Torx I know a 1/2" won't fit so maybe a 3/8" might, not sure as I only ever used 1/4" hex sockets on them which fit enough to hold the bolt while loosening or tightening but not well enough to swing on them.
Also check the VCU BEFORE removing the propshaft. It'll only take a few minutes to do a quick and dirty test but you don't want to go to the bother of refitting the propshaft only to find the VCU is shot.
Click to expand...
 
Hi

I only have it up on two ramps so it'd hard to bash with a lump hammer from underneath. The prop was off last week when the centre bearing were replaced by garage so thought it would move easily

What' a quick and dirty test of the vcu?
 
Alibro said:
In theory with only 82k miles the VCU should be OK but best check it soon. Just jack up one rear wheel, put a wheel brace on a nut and try to turn the wheel. If it turns without too much force yer probably OK. On my first Fl1 I couldn't make it turn at all that way so I knew the VCU was shot.
To prove if the issue is propshaft related or not taking the propshaft off is pretty easy. No special tools required and will only take a couple of hours.
If you have ramps, drive one side onto them, if not drive up onto some blocks of wood or concrete.
You should use torque sockets to loosen the bolts but I don't have any that fit so have always done it with 1/4" sockets and never had a problem.
Take the bolts out of either end and the four holding up the VCU. Catch the VCU on your chest and your sorted.
Click to expand...
 
Jacked up the rear wheel and it turns with a small amount of effort so am hoping the vcu is fine.

Managed to undo 3 bolts from ptop but will wait for torx sockets now as can' get to other 3 with enough force
 
Bobthecar said:
Jacked up the rear wheel and it turns with a small amount of effort so am hoping the vcu is fine.

Managed to undo 3 bolts from ptop but will wait for torx sockets now as can' get to other 3 with enough force
Click to expand...
If you can move the car it will turn the bolts to a better position for you to get at but it's a pain when trying to do with just ramps.
 
If you can turn the wheel with "a small amount of effort" it might mean someone's stuck a dodgy recon on there previously that won't be up to shifting the car if you need 4WD. Mind you, if you're built like Shrek, then the result is null and void.

Whether you have Torx sockets or not, I find the best way of removing the prop is to do the lower bolts that you can get easy access to, then roll the car forward a bit so that more bolts get easy access. I either do it from my inspection pit or drive the car up onto blocks first to get better clearance underneath. Just use as many blocks as needed to roll the car.
 
GrumpyGel said:
If you can turn the wheel with "a small amount of effort" it might mean someone's stuck a dodgy recon on there previously that won't be up to shifting the car if you need 4WD. Mind you, if you're built like Shrek, then the result is null and void.

Whether you have Torx sockets or not, I find the best way of removing the prop is to do the lower bolts that you can get easy access to, then roll the car forward a bit so that more bolts get easy access. I either do it from my inspection pit or drive the car up onto blocks first to get better clearance underneath. Just use as many blocks as needed to roll the car.
Click to expand...

I'll have another go in the morning.
If the car runs fine with the prop removed is there any way of telling which part of the prop is faulty.
 
If the UJ's at the VCU are OK then the only other part of the prop likely to cause a wobble it the connection at the front which you said had some movement.

Unless....

I had a wobble on one car after the VCU was worked on and the damper had been removed and refitted. In your case I can't think why it would have been removed but for me I fixed the wobble by rotating the damper. I had noticed when the VCU was on the bench that the damper was off centre so maybe the damper is deliberately fitted and adjusted to balance the VCU.
That might be complete rubbish and it's a very long shot but will only take a couple of minutes so worth a try. Mark it first so you are sure where to put it back to if it doesn't work, undo the three bolts, rotate it one bolt hole and bolt it up again.
If that doesn't make a difference then try it again as there are only three possible positions.
 
Alibro said:
If the UJ's at the VCU are OK then the only other part of the prop likely to cause a wobble it the connection at the front which you said had some movement.

Unless....

I had a wobble on one car after the VCU was worked on and the damper had been removed and refitted. In your case I can't think why it would have been removed but for me I fixed the wobble by rotating the damper. I had noticed when the VCU was on the bench that the damper was off centre so maybe the damper is deliberately fitted and adjusted to balance the VCU.
That might be complete rubbish and it's a very long shot but will only take a couple of minutes so worth a try. Mark it first so you are sure where to put it back to if it doesn't work, undo the three bolts, rotate it one bolt hole and bolt it up again.
If that doesn't make a difference then try it again as there are only three possible positions.
Click to expand...

Assuming it's not the damper would the issue then be with the front prop shaft ?

Or would damaged gaiter boot cause any wobble and the gearstick to move ? If so how easy is it to remove the gaiter boot and replace as they are fairly cheap parts
 
Bobthecar said:
Assuming it's not the damper would the issue then be with the front prop shaft ?

Or would damaged gaiter boot cause any wobble and the gearstick to move ? If so how easy is it to remove the gaiter boot and replace as they are fairly cheap parts
Click to expand...
The gaiter is covering a tri bearing similar to what is in a drive shaft. You'd have to replace the bearing and the gaiter. It's not difficult but a bit of a faff, the gaiter is held on by a metal trim crimped onto the end so you need to unpick it first. Then remove the circlip and the tri-bearing. They can be difficult to remove without a bearing puller.
To resecure the new gaiter you need to tap the edge of the metal ring into the groove with a chisel or similar. It will all make sense when you're looking at it.
 
Alibro said:
The gaiter is covering a tri bearing similar to what is in a drive shaft. You'd have to replace the bearing and the gaiter. It's not difficult but a bit of a faff, the gaiter is held on by a metal trim crimped onto the end so you need to unpick it first. Then remove the circlip and the tri-bearing. They can be difficult to remove without a bearing puller.
To resecure the new gaiter you need to tap the edge of the metal ring into the groove with a chisel or similar. It will all make sense when you're looking at it.
Click to expand...

Is there any definate way to tell if the gaiter is damaged or the front prop ?
 
If the gaiter is damaged then grease will leak out so will be obvious. Pushing it around with your hand will tell you if the bearing is shot. If it moves sideways or up and down it's bad. They're meant to slide forwards and backwards.
 
Alibro said:
This is the gaiter but I can't find a part number for the CV joint.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-TVB000090GAITER
I'd be surprised if it was shot though as they normally don't get much abuse.
Click to expand...

There is no leakage and the prop moves forward and back and no play up and down.

Im begining to think it's not an actual prop issue.

Would worn rear diff mounts cause a wobble and steering vibration at speed and if so how do I tell if they are worn
 
Yes
Grab it and push it around. If it's solid they're OK if it moves they're shot.
Do the same with your drive shafts. If you feel the issue through the steering and the gearstick it's likely a drive shaft, not the prop shaft.
Cheap aftermarket drive shafts will cause the same sort of issue.
 
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