WLJayne said:
What was your idea again? I thought the blow control was the one? I doubt it will fault it, it would have to be stone cold. The only reason it did before was due to that naff sensor.

You bet your gosh darned rear end a turbo is on my xmas list :D!
Click to expand...

Post 16!
 
WLJayne said:
Yep, the problem is that not enough water is being sent to the heater so fingers crossed it'll cure it. May even be better than stock :). I think we're going to wire it up to the blower control, a constant 6v would probably be enough I imagine. It's been sitting here since I bought it, really should fit it soon!
Click to expand...

Blower control is a good idea. Is it voltage switched via resistors or ECU driven, or chopped?
Good if voltage via resistors, because pump speed would be proportional to fan speed - which is why, I suspect, you chose it?
 
DD has the details but I think it is resistor controlled. Our only concern is that during the warmup cycle the pump may be a bit disruptive on the flow and puall water from the rad aswell as the head when the pump is pulsing. Personally I think that given the head outlets location it will mostly pull hot water out of the head, but not enough to seriously impair the warmup sequence.
 
WLJayne said:
DD has the details but I think it is resistor controlled. Our only concern is that during the warmup cycle the pump may be a bit disruptive on the flow and puall water from the rad aswell as the head when the pump is pulsing. Personally I think that given the head outlets location it will mostly pull hot water out of the head, but not enough to seriously impair the warmup sequence.
Click to expand...

Might be better, do start with to, supply 12v via a rheostat to vary the voltage. I reckon you will only need a small flow thru.
 
well there are 2 ways you can have a clear windsreen, one is if you break your front window then have it replaced with a upgrade, it will probably cost you around £375, the next thing is get a antique or replica stone water bottle and put boiling water in it and place it in the car one the dash if possible and wrap a cloth around it and it will still be warm next morning and no frozen windscreen.
 
teddywood1 said:
well there are 2 ways you can have a clear windsreen, one is if you break your front window then have it replaced with a upgrade, it will probably cost you around £375, the next thing is get a antique or replica stone water bottle and put boiling water in it and place it in the car one the dash if possible and wrap a cloth around it and it will still be warm next morning and no frozen windscreen.
Click to expand...

You could of course tell the Windscreen Company that it's a heated screen that's gone when you phone them and admit it was a "Mistake" if anything is said. It's just a matter of putting two wires to it via a relay, fuse and switch. You could attach the wires when the old one is out and the replacement is ready to go in and complete the connection etc later.

The repairers are out to make money pure and simple and the old screen will go straight in the skip without inspection.
 
Irishrover said:
You could of course tell the Windscreen Company that it's a heated screen that's gone when you phone them and admit it was a "Mistake" if anything is said. It's just a matter of putting two wires to it via a relay, fuse and switch. You could attach the wires when the old one is out and the replacement is ready to go in and complete the connection etc later.

The repairers are out to make money pure and simple and the old screen will go straight in the skip without inspection.
Click to expand...

That's pretty much what the chap from Autoglass said.
 
I have back seats folded and have a small 500w heater in the back, i wire it up to the mains through an extension lead for half hour and this warms cab up and defrosts inside as well .. A mate puts a hot water bottle or to at night in his and that keeps frost off. Wired up to a timer then u dont have to get up early.
 
sijwhite said:
That's pretty much what the chap from Autoglass said.
Click to expand...


:behindsofa:

Used to work with a guy who once worked for a windscreen replacement company and the price they pay for new screens is virtually peanuts, they get MASSIVE discounts off them. The Insurance companies also pay far less for the job than you or I will.
Go to any main dealer, LR or otherwise, that has a body repair shop and you will see windscreen replacement and aircon. vans outside. When I had my Faultmate with the BECM software, I used to unlock and reprogram them because the dealer Test Book could not do it. Of course, the dealer will charge you list price for the part and their hourly rate for the work based on their estimation of the time taken to do the job.
 
Well it's decided, EBP goes in this thursday. I'm going to piggy back it onto the EWP feed so they run in tandem. We reckon that it's a case of the heater just not getting enough share of the flow now that there is no back pressure in the system due to the deletion of the thermostat, thus the hot water is choosing the path of least resistance and more or less bypassing the heater. It's quite possible that conducion and convection are most of what the heater is getting at the moment.

The EBP should shove alot more up there even on minimum voltage, and this way it won't interfere with the warmup time which is now bloody quick on uncongested roads.

Will.
 
WLJayne said:
Yep, the problem is that not enough water is being sent to the heater so fingers crossed it'll cure it. May even be better than stock :). I think we're going to wire it up to the blower control, a constant 6v would probably be enough I imagine. It's been sitting here since I bought it, really should fit it soon!
Click to expand...
put the inline thermostat i am going too and £11 at minute aa this is listed for td4 and mgzr as they got same problem
 
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