Andy Warren said:
I suppose it must be difficult to keep the weight down with conversions given they weren't designed for electrical perpulsion in the first place. I didn't think to ask if the series & defenders on display were heavier than std once converted 🙄, next time...... Still amazed at what you've achieved 🙌.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, it was a huge undertaking but a lot of fun.........and work.......and getting stuff wrong.........plus some tears..........and blood.........and a bit of sweat.........and a lot of procrastination..........but mostly just hours spent in the garage.
But I have no intention of doing it again! :oops:
 
Tip: "cd e*" would do instead of "cd esp32ret_updater" as it's the only subdir beginning with e ;) (Us software geeks are lazy)

Interesting in a geeky kind of way. It's a shame the fuel guage isn't controlled via the CAN bus, that would be a good one to adapt.
I'm wondering what else it's possible to do with it. Probably more in later cars 🤔
 
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Alibro said:
Not strictly speaking directly relevant to the Freelander but I recently posted a video showing how to make a CAN bus 'sniffer' for only a few quid.
All the usual warnings about terminal boredom apply. ;)

Click to expand...

I wonder how far away an instrument pack read/writer is from this
 
bukko said:
Tip: "cd e*" would do instead of "cd esp32ret_updater" as it's the only subdir beginning with e ;) (Us software geeks are lazy)

Interesting in a geeky kind of way. It's a shame the fuel guage isn't controlled via the CAN bus, that would be a good one to adapt.
I'm wondering what else it's possible to do with it. Probably more in later cars 🤔
Click to expand...
I rarely use Windows and it's been years since I used the MS command line so even though I know/knew about command line shortcuts it's unlikely I'll ever use them in the wild. TBH I was pleased to be able to remember how to navigate the file structure at all.

The fuel gauge would probably be simple to control using an Arduino to output a PWM signal relative to the voltage broadcast by the inverter on CAN. I just can't be arsed doing it and instead put a resistor across the gauge so it always reads 1/4 full. 😋
Instead I watch the voltage on the Android head unit and calculate range from that.

Bounty said:
I wonder how far away an instrument pack read/writer is from this
Click to expand...

Every manufacturer uses their own protocols which also change between models so it would be difficult to make one cheaply.
 
bukko said:
Tip: "cd e*" would do instead of "cd esp32ret_updater" as it's the only subdir beginning with e ;) (Us software geeks are lazy)

Interesting in a geeky kind of way. It's a shame the fuel guage isn't controlled via the CAN bus, that would be a good one to adapt.
I'm wondering what else it's possible to do with it. Probably more in later cars 🤔
Click to expand...
and on most Linux or BSD systems (and Juniper, Cisco, etc.), just use tab completion . . . . . .MS haven't caught up yet !!
 
So this week I decided it was time to secure my power steering pump properly instead of just jamming it in with foam packing.
I never got a photo of it installed like this but this is the foam I was using. It worked surprisingly well for a couple thousand miles. 😋

IMG_20241104_111016628.jpg


So I started by cutting a hydraulic pump shaped hole in a bit of 1.5mm steel then welded a lip onto it.

IMG_20241102_122512155.jpg
IMG_20241102_122517857.jpg


Before grinding my Fugly welds.

IMG_20241102_131012022.jpg


Then I welded on some angle supports.

IMG_20241102_145451436.jpg


Before final grind and paint

IMG_20241102_145440348.jpg
IMG_20241102_145445665.jpg
IMG_20241102_163156789.jpg


I then drilled and tapped holes to secure the pump and welded it into position. It is welded to my battery bracket, not to the car so no issue with DVLA

IMG_20241103_115007389.jpg


Nice and solid now.

IMG_20241103_122918067.jpg


I'm really pleased with how it turned out but I currently don't have any rubber mounts holding it. I just used M8 bolts and washers so I find it much louder then it was before. Hopefully with rubber bushings it will be a bit quieter but I need to figure out a way to make them as they didn't come with the pump.
 
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You can get rubber bobbins, specially designed to damp out vibrations from this sort of thing. They come in all sorts of sizes, thread types, and rubber harness (Shore ratings), perfect for what you need.
Like these.
motioncontrol.metrol.com

M8 Male Male Bobbins 55 Shore

This AVM-MMB-M8 anti vibration mount has a outside diameter of 30mm, 40mm and a height of 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, 25mm, 30mm, 35mm, 40mm. It features an M8 thread and our stock range is available with a 55 shore (other shore strengths are available upon request
motioncontrol.metrol.com motioncontrol.metrol.com
 
Nodge68 said:
You can get rubber bobbins, specially designed to damp out vibrations from this sort of thing. They come in all sorts of sizes, thread types, and rubber harness (Shore ratings), perfect for what you need.
Like these.
motioncontrol.metrol.com

M8 Male Male Bobbins 55 Shore

This AVM-MMB-M8 anti vibration mount has a outside diameter of 30mm, 40mm and a height of 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, 25mm, 30mm, 35mm, 40mm. It features an M8 thread and our stock range is available with a 55 shore (other shore strengths are available upon request
motioncontrol.metrol.com motioncontrol.metrol.com
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, they look very good, I was going to try and make something but if that fails I'll try these.
TBH I was surprised at how much louder it is when bolted in rather than sitting on the foam but it is much more secure. Hopefully the rubber mounts will help.
 
Alibro said:
I had a look on Amazon and they can be bought in smaller numbers for less money.

It never occurred to me to search for them. 🤣
Click to expand...
They're very cheap, although cheap ones don't normally last very long, or the rubber elements are very hard, making them kinda pointless.

For a PS pump with minimal weight, nice soft rubber is needed to dampen out the vibrations.
 
I've ordered a set of 4 off ebay (they were similar price but I don't have Amazon Prime any more so have to pay for postage). From the pictures they are all identical from every supplier but I'll know how hard or soft they are when they arrive.
The pump is very light and I don't do big miles so they will not get much abuse but like you say the rubber might be too hard.
I suspect home made would be better in that I can carefully choose the material but more work so we'll see,
 
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Alibro said:
So this week I decided it was time to secure my power steering pump properly instead of just jamming it in with foam packing.
I never got a photo of it installed like this but this is the foam I was using. It worked surprisingly well for a couple thousand miles. 😋

View attachment 329384

So I started by cutting a hydraulic pump shaped hole in a bit of 1.5mm steel then welded a lip onto it.

View attachment 329391View attachment 329390

Before grinding my Fugly welds.

View attachment 329389

Then I welded on some angle supports.

View attachment 329386

Before final grind and paint

View attachment 329388View attachment 329387View attachment 329385

I then drilled and tapped holes to secure the pump and welded it into position. It is welded to my battery bracket, not to the car so no issue with DVLA

View attachment 329394

Nice and solid now.

View attachment 329395

I'm really pleased with how it turned out but I currently don't have any rubber mounts holding it. I just used M8 bolts and washers so I find it much louder then it was before. Hopefully with rubber bushings it will be a bit quieter but I need to figure out a way to make them as they didn't come with the pump.
Click to expand...
That's some genuinely nice fabricating buddy... I am genuinely impressed how far your welding has come along. I remember at the start ofthis project I was being pedantic and picking holes in your initial welding, and giving you advice on how to improve... But now, with a bit of skill fade on my side, I might need to pick your brain for guidance👍
 
Jayridium said:
That's some genuinely nice fabricating buddy... I am genuinely impressed how far your welding has come along. I remember at the start ofthis project I was being pedantic and picking holes in your initial welding, and giving you advice on how to improve... But now, with a bit of skill fade on my side, I might need to pick your brain for guidance👍
Click to expand...
Sorry mate my welding is still unsuitably poor but my grinding and painting has improved immeasurably. 🤣
 
I happened across this video I took back in May and had a second look. Turns out my car is putting out a little more power than I expected when I started this build.
I'm using the inverter and motor from a 2011 Gen1 Nissan Leaf which had a claimed power of 80kW. In this video I'm using a high quality shunt made by Isabellenhütte so I think the numbers are accurate.
I watched carefully and saw a peak power of 89kW but a constant power for several seconds of 85/86kW.
TBH this is pretty much how it feels but with the instant torque of electric. It's not a power monster but I'm very happy with how it goes.

 
Jayridium said:
Hmm... I'm not so sure about your painting... 😉
Click to expand...
I've been caught out! :oops:
I have to admit there was virtually zero prep before spraying with the only primer I could find which was red. It was barely dry when a very heavy coat of stone chip got plastered on. I left it overnight but I'd put so much stonechip on it was still kinda soft but I just said screw it, used the grinder to clean back the bottom of the legs before welding in. Another quick squirt of stone chip and the pump went straight in before anything dried.

Guilty as charger yer honour. 😞
 
Alibro said:
I happened across this video I took back in May and had a second look. Turns out my car is putting out a little more power than I expected when I started this build.
I'm using the inverter and motor from a 2011 Gen1 Nissan Leaf which had a claimed power of 80kW. In this video I'm using a high quality shunt made by Isabellenhütte so I think the numbers are accurate.
I watched carefully and saw a peak power of 89kW but a constant power for several seconds of 85/86kW.
TBH this is pretty much how it feels but with the instant torque of electric. It's not a power monster but I'm very happy with how it goes.

Click to expand...

That's pretty impressive Ali. That'll be why it breaks traction.
I've got a similar screen on the Ioniq 5, which shows various items and what power they consume. I've seen the heater pull a full 5kW, when set to 27°C, full fan speed, and AC running. Interestingly the heated rear window, which includes the mirror heaters uses just 450 Watts. The seat heaters are 50 Watts each.

I won't tell you what I've seen the traction motor pull at full power, but it's more than 89kW.
 
Jayridium said:
I was wondering, can you change gear on the move?
Click to expand...
Yes mate, I do it all the time, it's like any manual car, so long as the speed and rpm are about right for the gear you're selecting it just snicks into gear easily. I used to change gear without the clutch all the time in my last manual car because of a dodgy left knee so it was easy for me to adapt.
 
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