Alibro said:
The code below is the software I'm using to control both the coolant pump and the vac pump. The threshold was originally set to 250 and this controls the vac level. This was the default level from the author. I tried changing it to 100 but the pump didn't turn off at all, so I turned on the serial port monitor and noticed with no vacuum it was showing around 750 so I changed it to 500 and this seemed to work well. Looks like the higher the number the lower the vac.

Now I need to reconfigure things so I can get at it again if necessary without stripping the car.

#define DEBUG 1 // comment this out to turn off serial comms once you've set the threshold & hysteresis #define SENSE_PIN A0 // connect to the output of the sensor - you also need to feed it 5V and gnd #define RELAY_PIN 10 // connect to the relay input. Check whether the relay is active high or low! #define HYSTERESIS 50 // stops the pump cycling on and off when close to threshold #define THRESHOLD 250 // Where does it turn on/off. Can't remember what my final number was but this is a good start void setup() { //Coolant pump controller setup // Set-up PWM on the Arduino UNO at 1Hz on Digital pin D9 pinMode(9, OUTPUT); // Set digital pin 9 (D9) to an output TCCR1A = _BV(COM1A1) | _BV(WGM11); // Enable the PWM output OC1A on digital pins 9 TCCR1B = _BV(WGM13) | _BV(WGM12) | _BV(CS12); // Set fast PWM and prescaler of 256 on timer 1 ICR1 = 31249; // Set the PWM frequency to 2Hz: 16MHz/(256 * 2Hz) - 1 = 31249 OCR1A = 14062; // Set the duty-cycle to approx 45%: 31249 / 45 = 14062 30 = 9374 //Vacuum pump controller Setup #ifdef DEBUG Serial.begin(9600); Serial.println("Debug Mode: Serial Comms Enabled"); Serial.print("Threshold: "); Serial.println(THRESHOLD); Serial.print("Hysteresis: "); Serial.println(HYSTERESIS); #endif pinMode(SENSE_PIN, INPUT); pinMode(RELAY_PIN, OUTPUT); #ifdef DEBUG Serial.println("Pump Priming"); #endif digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, LOW); delay(5000); digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH); } void loop() { int value = analogRead(SENSE_PIN); #ifdef DEBUG Serial.print("ANALOG READ: "); Serial.println(value); delay(100); #endif if (value > (THRESHOLD + HYSTERESIS)) { digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, LOW); #ifdef DEBUG Serial.println("RELAY ON"); #endif } else if ( value < THRESHOLD - HYSTERESIS) { digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH); #ifdef DEBUG Serial.println("RELAY OFF"); #endif } else { // do nothing } }
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Ah yeh, that's a lot simpler than a switch :D

Have to say that's 1 thing I'd love to get into 1 day, using an Arduino to do 'stuff'.
 
After putting the brake boost back together with hopefully enough pipework so I don't need to remove the Inverter again it seems to be working well. I still need to refit the subframe to test it properly but that's a job for tomorrows Alibro.
Tonight's alibro is sipping a wee dram of Jamisons from a mate who appreciated me sorting his laptop. 😋
 
GrumpyGel said:
Ah yeh, that's a lot simpler than a switch :D

Have to say that's 1 thing I'd love to get into 1 day, using an Arduino to do 'stuff'.
Click to expand...
Nope not simpler, but already done. If I had got the switch first I'd have gone with it. 😉

Arduino is really simple once it's working but a ballache to get working.
Most people buy cheap clones off ebay and wonder why the official Arduino drivers don't work.
Once you get past that problem just ask ChatGPT to write your code. I've been playing and working with computers since I was 16 so well over 40 years and I struggle to understand the software side of Arduino so I either copy code or get AI to write it for me. 😁
 
Sunday started out a good day but finished a bad day.
Today started out bad but ended up good - mostly.

This was the scene on Sunday morning.

IMG_20231022_124849598.jpg

IMG_20231022_124859205.jpg


So a few hours later the subframe was back on, inverter back in place and coolant refilled.
After doing lots of checking I turned the key and nothing. 😭
I spent over an hour checking everything but still no joy so I did what I normally do in this situation and walked away sulking.:(

Today I put off going out again until around 4pm but had to have a look to see what was wrong and after a few quick checks I moved a single wire and it fired back into life. 😯
I have no recollection of moving the wire or any idea why I did, it but it's working again so I'll take it.
So with the brakes working, the power steering working, the startup timing sorted with a new 8 way relay module replacing the four way one, I screwed the lids on the boxes and fitted the lights and bumper

IMG_20231023_202103858.jpg
IMG_20231023_205350303.jpg
IMG_20231023_202038763.jpg


I didn't take a photo of the car with the bumper on but took it up the lane for a test run and apart from the reversing light the electrics worked perfectly. 😁

There is however a clunking sound from the front so I need to investigate what that's about. The car was bought for spares/repairs so it's not really a surprise and I have spares so hopefully we are very close to MOT time. :oops:
 
Nodge68 said:
Looking good Ali. Hopefully the clunk is just a simple suspension issue.
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Thanks mate, I'll take a look later and thinking it might be a drive shaft but this morning I've been getting insurance quotes.
£780 is the cheapest so far. Ouch! 😲
I knew it would be more than for a standard car, especially as I don't have No Claims Discount for it so I'll just have to suck it up.
Just as well I have work coming on stream next week which should last until March.
 
Alibro said:
Thanks mate, I'll take a look later and thinking it might be a drive shaft but this morning I've been getting insurance quotes.
£780 is the cheapest so far. Ouch! 😲
I knew it would be more than for a standard car, especially as I don't have No Claims Discount for it so I'll just have to suck it up.
Just as well I have work coming on stream next week which should last until March.
Click to expand...
Actually for no No Claims discount, I don't think that too bad. I've recently insured a 2006 Toyota Aygo 1.0L for the middle daughter to use to learn to drive. Similar to you, no No Claims discount, so payed just over £300, bearing in mind it's a standard 1.0L car. Insurance without No Claims is just pricy it seems. :(
 
Nodge68 said:
Actually for no No Claims discount, I don't think that too bad. I've recently insured a 2006 Toyota Aygo 1.0L for the middle daughter to use to learn to drive. Similar to you, no No Claims discount, so payed just over £300, bearing in mind it's a standard 1.0L car. Insurance without No Claims is just pricy it seems. :(
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking although that's cheap for a learner driver. I got the price from Adrian Flux.
I just sent an email to DVA to try and get an emergency MOT as I can't tax it until it's MOT'd. The MOT system over still hasn't recovered from covid.
 
The scary thing is I haven't driven it on the road yet so still not 100% certain what it will be like.
I guess so long as to makes it to the MOT centre it doesn't really matter how slowly.
 
Alibro said:
The scary thing is I haven't driven it on the road yet so still not 100% certain what it will be like.
I guess so long as to makes it to the MOT centre it doesn't really matter how slowly.
Click to expand...
I'm stupidly excited to hear how it goes. You must feel like an expectant father :vb-bouncy3:
 
andyfreelandy said:
Good luck. If they find fault with it, simply direct them to a couple of not very insulated terminals to play with !! ;)
Click to expand...

It seems they don't care about the conversion and just do a normal MOT test on it.
I had to email the emergency MOT line as the car can't be taxed without MOT and the soonest I could book online was 20th March. They called me back a little while later and while on with them I explained again about the conversion and apparently they had run it by the manager to confirm the process.
I was told I have to MOT it first before contacting DVA to change the fuel type in the tax book. I suspect at that point I will have to declare whether I modified the chassis etc.
 
Alibro said:
Yeah, that's what I was thinking although that's cheap for a learner driver. That's just for me. The daughter has pay for her own special insurance which covers her to drive an insured vehicle owned by a parent or sibling.
Click to expand...
Alibro said:
The scary thing is I haven't driven it on the road yet so still not 100% certain what it will be like.
I guess so long as to makes it to the MOT centre it doesn't really matter how slowly.
Click to expand...
As long as it's fully charged, I'm sure it'll get there. Slowly?, I'm not so sure, I've seen it spinning it's wheels in second gear.

The emissions test will be interesting.
 
Nodge68 said:
As long as it's fully charged, I'm sure it'll get there. Slowly?, I'm not so sure, I've seen it spinning it's wheels in second gear.
That's just for me. The daughter has pay for her own special insurance which covers her to drive an insured vehicle owned by a parent or sibling.
The emissions test will be interesting.
Click to expand...
I wondered at the price for a learner. 😁
It's charged already. For charging all I need to do is turn on the ignition and plug it in, I should hopefully get up to 100 miles on a full charge and the MOT test centre is only 10 miles away so battery range shouldn't be an issue but things like cooling are still to be confirmed.
Some day soon I'll automate the end to charging so I don't accidentally overcharge and also disable drive when charging. I don't want to drive off with the plug still in. 😯

andyfreelandy said:
Got to be worth fitting a dummy exhaust before you take it in !! Get a reading when Mr MOT puts probe up there !!!
Click to expand...
Sounds like a fun idea. 😋

I taped a tablet over the hole where the radio should be so I can monitor temps.

IMG_20231024_221244084.jpg


It's only temporary until I get an Android head unit but it made me chuckle. It's just an ancient 7" tablet but is good enough to display the simple web page that's a bonus of the VCU. I can't display power, voltage or current yet but hopefully will get them working later, currently just RPM and temperature of Inverter and Motor.
 
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As from midnight tonight it will be insured so I intend to take it out for a short test run on the road tomorrow.
I need to put a few miles on it to confirm nothing is overheating as it is very hard to know for sure the coolant is pumping correctly. This is why I wanted the tablet showing temps.
I'm more than a little nervous as I know better than anyone how many things could go wrong.
I still have time to cancel the MOT if I need to but I'm hoping all will be well.
I'll try to take a video if I can.
 
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