I'm going to have to pick your brains about CAN at some point in the future, I've got an eight speed autobox out of a jag that I want to use in something daft, and it's ECU is built into the valve block, and does everything via CAN, so to make this work I'm either going to have to run external wiring direct to the solenoids, or rattle up an arduino that essentially seduces the ZF ecu on the valve block by whispering sweet ones and nothings into its ears, wooing it to change gear, and that's got to be done via CAN bus.


When Philo T. Farnsworth invented the Cathode Ray Tube, all the glass blowers he (and his brothers iirc) went to said that shape can't be blown, so they taught themselves glass blowing, and because they didn't know what couldn't be done the went ahead and done that which conventional wisdom said could not be done. So yeah, not knowing you can't do something can actually be a good thing, as after all, "the human spirit is limitless, but fear, uncertainty and doubt are learned."
You're welcome to pick as much as you like but the pickings ain't rich. :p
There is a guy on YouTube, German I think but living in US.
Anyway he electrified a Jag and Iirc got the auto box working. It might be worth looking him up.
 
It's three generations of jag later that the autobox comes from, but that thumbnail pulled on my heart strings, Iused to run an XJR of that shape, in sapphire blue....
 
It's three generations of jag later that the autobox comes from, but that thumbnail pulled on my heart strings, Iused to run an XJR of that shape, in sapphire blue....
It is a beautiful car. :)
In order to work out what CAN messages are required you need a download of the CAN from a running car.
 
It's not easy to see here but I have made another frame that will bolt in from below.

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It will give space for another two large modules mounted on their sides making room for 6 large modules so far.
I was hoping to be able to mount more modules under these two, and there would be space to do so but it would mean the battery box hanging down below the front cross member and that is not going to happen. It would be asking for trouble putting a battery box where it would be so easily damaged.
I should be able to fit more modules in the main support frame for the inverter etc so will concentrate on doing that.
 
I was hoping to be able to mount more modules under these two, and there would be space to do so but it would mean the battery box hanging down below the front cross member and that is not going to happen.

I agree Ali. You really need to keep the battery packs within the confines of the vehicle structure, or at least protected inside the sump guard aluminium sections.
 
I agree Ali. You really need to keep the battery packs within the confines of the vehicle structure, or at least protected inside the sump guard aluminium sections.
It would have been level with the front middle tie down but that would mean a couple of inches below the front cross member at either side and would also prevent the under tray from being bolted in. I have seen others do stuff like this but I'd rather loose boot space than do that.
I'd be panicking every time I parked at a kerb. :eek:
 
There was a topgear episode where Paddy, Chris and Freddie went electric tow vehicle caravaning, taking the modern EUVs and their caravans to the top of some isolated hill in the yorkshire moors, so they simultaneously proved EV's can tow and go off road.
 
There was a topgear episode where Paddy, Chris and Freddie went electric tow vehicle caravaning, taking the modern EUVs and their caravans to the top of some isolated hill in the yorkshire moors, so they simultaneously proved EV's can tow and go off road.
EV's have two (at least) issues when towing, Their range is heavily effected and charge stations are not designed for car and trailer so usually the trailer needs to be unhitched before the car is charged.
While I am 100% pro electric cars (obs) I still recognise they currently have limitations, just like ICE cars did in the beginning.
 
EV's have two (at least) issues when towing, Their range is heavily effected and charge stations are not designed for car and trailer so usually the trailer needs to be unhitched before the car is charged.
While I am 100% pro electric cars (obs) I still recognise they currently have limitations, just like ICE cars did in the beginning.
When the EV coach pulled up the other month & squeezed into a car park it was a sight. I thought he was trying to find a quiet spot as it’s a truck stop, until he got the charge cable plugged in
 
just like ICE cars did in the beginning
Exactly. When ICE vehicles first arrived, you had to buy fuel in cans from the local hardware store, just like buying paraffin or kerosene.

It wasn't until after the 1st world war in 1919 that petrol started being sold out of a pump, in a dedicated petrol station in Berkshire.
 
Latest video.



And latest purchase, all the way from Poland.

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I never managed to get the old Nissan Leaf charger working so decided instead to use a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV charger. It arrived today and it's a LOT more compact than the Nissan version. Even better it has the DC to DC converter incorporated so in one very small neat unit, which looks like it might even sit under the inverter I get both charger and DC to DC converter :).
I believe these are fairly easy to get working but will confirm when I've tested it.
 
So it looks like I've been massively lucky with the new charger. :) So long as I can make it work that is. ;)
This is how it fits the frame I built months ago.
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All I had to do was cut away half of the lower support of the frame to get it a bit lower, drill through the side rails to pick up the three mounts and grind away a mill or so of the frame rails and it fitted perfectly.
Even better, the Inverter sits directly above it so HV cables and coolant hoses for Motor, Charger and Inverter will all be close together
 
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I did a bit more work to the front battery box over the last couple of days. The frame to hold six battery modules is made but I need to make covers to protect them from the elements and of course the frame was so badly designed the cover will be very complicated :rolleyes:. I've decided to make the covers with some 0.8mm sheet I had laying around and use copious amounts of seam sealer to make it weather proof.

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This is the lowest section and has bolts welded into it so it hangs from the main section. The two modules in this section will be on their sides because of space constraints with the original eGolf M6 bolts holding them in position. The first photo shows the cover still half finished, I plan to weld in the blank section tomorrow. The second photo shows the base (or front) with a sheet already spot welded in. I'll use seam sealer to seal the gaps.
 
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I think I've finished the cover for lower part of the battery box. :)

Bending the 0.8mm sheet. I don't have a brake press so make do with a couple of lengths of angle and a rubber mallet.
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Getting it to fit.
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Cut to size. Note the lower part in this photo was made a few days ago.
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Tacked in place. I won't be seam welding this as it will need seam sealant anyway.
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Mostly finished here. I've ordered some 10mm M6 flanged bolts to use as these countersunk ones are not ideal. They are just screwed into the 3mm frame so I'll probably need to cut even 10mm bolts shorter to prevent them hitting the batteries.
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In place and it fits well. There is just enough room for a hose to bend past it from the motor.

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And with modules fitted to confirm I can get the cables out. The top of this section will be open so it should be easy to feed the cables up from it.
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So now I've worked out how I can cover the modules I think I'll maybe move on and figure out where I can fit the rest of the pack. I have to admit I didn't realise just how much space this pack would take up so I think a fair portion will be in the boot.
 
Looking good Ali.
I can't wait to see it finished. I hope it rewards all your efforts with low running costs, and adequate performance.
 
Looking good Ali.
I can't wait to see it finished. I hope it rewards all your efforts with low running costs, and adequate performance.
Thanks mate
I expect it to be more torquey than the TD4 engine removed as it should be standard Leaf torque with a manual gearbox.
But yes, looking forward to a proper test with a bit more than 1500W ebike inverter. :p
As for running costs I have solar panels so hope to do most of the charging for 7.5p per kwH which is the pay back I'm getting for solar to the grid.
 
As for running costs I have solar panels so hope to do most of the charging for 7.5p per kwH which is the pay back I'm getting for solar to the grid.

You've got solar now? That's so cool.
I'm still waiting for a lottery win to afford mine. Unfortunately the more the energy prices rise, the harder it's becoming to save towards solar. :(
 

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